I’ve been thinking a lot about Gelato in Rome lately. Certainly not because the weather has been persuasive (it’s been raining here since november for christ’s sake!) But because one of the princes of ice cream is coming to town: David Lebovitz. David, who is the author of The Perfect Scoop, will be signing copies of his new book, Ready for Dessert. He’ll be in town since he is leading a Gelato Tour for Context Italy. Domenico and I are thrilled to be co-hosting, with Context, a book signing party for him over at Domenico’s office on Via Cairoli (drop me a line if you’d like to come, June 5)
As many of you know, I’m a list kind of girl (lists of restaurants, lists of stores, etc). So I was shocked to realize that I had never made up a ‘best of’ gelato list for Rome. I mean, really. Yes, you’ve got the Colosseum and the Vatican, but don’t most people come to Italy to eat ice cream?
So, here is the definitive Minchilli guide to gelato in Rome. And while I’m usually of the camp of “if you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say it,” I am including my own not-so-positive opinions of a few gelato places that always seem to make it into the guide books, but shouldn’t. And frankly, the list is not so definitive, since I’d really like to hear what everyone else has to say, and am willing and able to do more research!
Gelateria del Teatro
This hard-to-find gelateria is just off Via dei Coronari, on a dead end alleyway, tucked into the corner. Make an effort to search it out, because it tops my list at the moment. Opened by an ex pastry chef, he searches out the best ingredients including pistachios from Bronte and lemons from Amalfi. And if nuts are your thing, this is the best place to get almond, walnut and, of course, pistachio.
Via di San Simone, 70
Fattamorgana
Ok, I just said Gelateria del Teatro tops my list. What I really meant was it ties with Fattamorgana. Love, love, love this place. But it’s very out of the way, so I don’t get there that often. Thank god. It’s hard to have a favorite here, since the owner is very creative and changes offerings constantly. Be prepared to find things like Blue Cheese and Pear, and Kentucky (which is flavored with tobacco). I still remember the day I ordered Dukha, which was a rich blend of sesame, almonds, hazelnuts and coriander. I’ve never found it again. Reason enough to keep going back.
Via di Lago di Lesina 9/11
Via Ostiense 36/E
Via G. Bettolo 7
Aracoeli
This gelaterie was a revelation to me. I had always assumed – due to its location at the foot of the campidoglio in prime tourist area – that this was just another tourist trap. Then, at a recent dinner party someone brought a tub of ice cream including armagnac soaked prunes and chocolate from their sister branch in Largo Argentina and I was hooked. This afternoon, while doing research for this post (someone has to do it, right?) I walked over and had Ricotta with Candied Figs, as well as a scoop of Almond. Their sister shop in Largo Arenula, equally touristy looking, is equally not touristy at all. As an added bonus, they are certified organic.
Piazza Ara Coeli 9-10
Al Settimo Gelo
I made a point of hitting Settimo Gelo for this posting. It was one of those places I had vaguely heard about, but never gotten to because it’s in …..Prati. I know, Rome is small, but Prati is not on my way to anything. Especially way the other side of Piazza Mazzini. But this should definitely be on everyone’s gelato itinerary since it’s fantastic! Don’t look for cute here. Very anonymous place, on a nothing sort of street. The first hint that something is different are the stickers plastering the door with the names of all the top food guides, from Slow Food to Gambero Rosso. Besides seasonal fruit flavors we tried, and love: Gelato Iraniano (Saffron and Rose Water); Gelato Greco (chestnut honey and yogurt); Sesamo e Miele; Ciocolato e Arachidi salati spezzati (chocolate with salted cracked peanuts); Dark Chocolate and candied Orange Peel. And we loved the wine flavors: Crema di Amarone con visciole (wine with cherries); Crema del Barolo e Prugne. Definitely bringing my friend Alice Feiring here.
Via Vodice 21
Palazzo del Freddo Giovanni Fassi
I can’t believe I only discovered this place last year. It’s said to be the oldest gelateria in Rome, and maybe even in Italy. Founded in 1880, it was (until they closed for restoration) comfortingly old fashioned, in a mid 20th century kind of way. I LOVE the plaster reproductions of gelato displayed. That may be why my friend Meg went here almost every day when her sister Amy was living in Rome. Or, more likely, it was just because the ice cream tasted so good. The true test of any gelateria is, of course, pistachio, and theirs is superb. They are very well known for their semi freddi and their various ice cream cakes. It’s not up there on the level of the new artisan gelaterie in town, in terms of ingredients, etc. But there is something that I love about the setting. The huge room, full of tables (which they don’t charge you to sit at!) groups of kids, families, old folks….it all feels very Roman. In a good way. (have’t been back since they have restructured. I hope it isn’t all shiny and new).
Via Principe Eugenio 65 (off piazza vittorio)
Alberto Pica
I can still remember the taste of the melon ice cream I had here in 1973. I was 12, and we were living in Palazzo Cenci, across the street. After lunch I begged to be let out on my own to get a gelato. By the time I made it back, upstairs, I had finished my small cup of melone. It was so good, I immediately left again, to get another cup. What I really loved, was the way the pure, rich whipped cream became almost solid next to the cold gelato.
Even back in those days, I was surprised I had enough nerve to go their on my own. Pica was back then, and continues to be today, well known for it’s off-putting owners. But if you can get past the rudeness, the ice cream is heavenly. They are best known for their rice based gelati, which change according to whim and season. How does the rice stay so firm? A closely guarded secret. Domenico’s favorite is manna. I love the riso alla canella.
Via del Seggiola 12 (off Via Arenula)
San Crispino
I first tasted San Crispino in the late ’90’s, at the Salone del Gusto in Turin. Although they had been in Rome for a while, I some how hadn’t made it there. They were really the first truly high end artisinal ice cream makers in town, searching out top notch ingredients and taking great care with small batches and temperature control. No fluffed up, day glo mounds of ice cream here. The gelato is carefully scooped out of metal containers sunk into a refrigerated counter, topped by lids.
It used to be the best in town, no doubt about it. My friend Evan would always head here, and make a point of trying just about every flavor. But since then places like the ones mentioned above have taken the crown. Since they have expanded, that it isn’t as dependable. I get the feeling the Fratelli Allongi aren’t there any more, and the flavor sometime suffers.
Via della Panetteria 42 (near Trevi Fountain)
Piazza della Maddalena 3 (near Pantheon)
Giolitti
I know this is supposed to be one of the great gelato places in Rome, but I am constantly disappointed. It’s not that it’s bad (and if you are around here, do stop by) it’s just that it’s not worth a detour in my opinion. The flavor is ok…but the gelato itself just feels too full of air and I think they are putting in some sort of stabilizer. And is it really worth that humoungous line of tourists?Via Ufficio del Vicario, 40 (near the Pantheon)
Old Bridge
Once again, I tried to go to this famed gelateria near the Vatican. But was once again I was put off by the huge line. Is it worth it? I don’t know. My friend Edward swears by it. As obviously do the hordes waiting to get in. The cones leaving the place were a little too big and a little too brightly colored for my comfort. But, like I said, I haven’t tried it, so you’ll have to join the crowds and let me know.
Via Bastioni di Michelangelo, 5
Gelateria Della Palma
I used to go here as a teenager, when I didn’t know any better. Yes, the HUGE number and variety of flavors is impressive. But the colors and taste is not. It is more of a tourist attraction (located on the main pedestrian road leading out from the Pantheon) than a true gelateria.
Via della Maddelena 19
Let me know your thoughts. Everyone and his aunt blogs about gelato in Rome, so I’m sure you have an opinion.
Thanks for this list of gelaterie and the in depth reviews. Can’t wait to go try these- most of them I haven’t been too yet! Everyone says Old Bridge is great but I too have never managed to go there. And I agree that Palma is over rated for their ice cream though the shop makes great eye candy! I too have never been Giolitti either. I have tried San Crispino many times and never felt satisfied by their formula some how- I much prefer il Gelatone on Via dei Serpenti which makes an incredible walnut ice cream and a divine lemon and basil (which makes a heavenly combination with dark chocolate and hot red pepper). Can’t wait to try some out from the top of the list but now I have to wait for it to start raining again…
I meant to say ‘I too have never been much of a fan of Giolitti either… ‘
I am also not a fan of Giolitti, either. Since I am lactose intolerant I have to find the best granita. There is a Sicilian Gelateria near the Vatican on Via Tunisi which is not full of tourists. They have incredible almond granita. Il Gelatone is good, and S. Crispini was never a favorite of mine. They are very expensive and I when I first came to Rome I wanted an “Italian” experience, which I never had there.
Giolitti BTW makes a horrible chestnut gelato I remember well from five years ago. It was so bad I thought I hated chestnuts until last fall!!
Thanks Sarah and Sienna! I was going to list Il Gelatone, but then thought it would get too crowded like Taverna! But it is very good and we’re lucky to have it in the neighborhood. (btw, folks, it’s on Via dei Serpenti, about a block up from the Piazzetta)
On Circonvalazione Gianicolense is an always-packed, but out of the center gelateria called Toni…straddling the two Monteverdes (Vecchio e Nuovo), the double-tripple parked cars always peeve me. But their hand blended selections, including a brownish (authentic!) pistacchio, draw ice cream enthusiasts from around Rome. Mostly a 30-40 year old crowd and often Monteverdini who either still live there or make the drive back for their familiar fix…
i too had always been frightened off by the old bridge crowds….but this winter happened upon it open and empty after a bikram yoga class…have only had chocolate frappe…it’s pretty delicious….they also have cones for celiacs.
Have you been to Fior di Luna in Trastevere? It is wonderful – certified organic, fair trade ingredients, lovely seasonal flavors. And they make their own chocolate in the winter. Great place!
Ciampini in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina is one of my favorite places but nothing beats Fata Morgana for me. Im completely obsessed with it.
Thanks everyone, for your comments and additions. Will definitely be trying Fior di Luna, and never thought of having ice cream at Ciampini (thanks Katie). And will try to make it up to Monteverde to tryi Toni (thanks Kate).
coming in the homestretch– i’ve made ice cream at Gelateria al Teatro, and can say they are by far the tops. Toni is great for kids (spaghetti gelato?!), Giolitti is my husband’s fave and tho i am not a “fan” i do love the the freddo con sorbetto di limone. Old Bridge has been very disappointing lately. xox erica
Thanks Erica! (do I know you? drawing a blank, but seems like I do and/or should)
I agree very much with the review of Aracoeli location. We have been going there for a number of years and always return. I haven’t found one any better though a number of others on the list are quite good.
Totally agree about Fior di Luna and Ciampini. And what about our beloved Gelatone in Monti for something quick if you don’t want to travel? I’m in love with their stracciatella.
Fattomorgana e’ incredibile!!!Brava
I don’t remember the name of the gelateria but I once had a transcendent licurizia in a gelateria in Trastevere a few blocks from the English bookstore. I will never forget this scoop, or the pillowy panna that accompanied it. Thank you for this post…now I have several new places to visit on quando torno sotto il cielo di Roma.
Put me down as another Giolitti non-fan. I do think Della Palma used to be much better, though, once upon a time. Fassi was always a favorite, both for the product and the setting. Haven’t been since the renovation — I too hope it hasn’t been changed too much.
FYI, Aracoeli has closed. I walked by there yesterday, and it was boarded up.
How about Zia Elena in Monteverdi? Is that still there? Used to be great!
hi, just got back from giolitti for the last time (i promise) amongst the photographing and posing tourists i had another dismal gelato, the pistacchio too sweet, the cioccolato fondente seemed a punishment.
ditto for le palme.
i haven’t been to old bridge in years but i think it’s only for size queens.
san crispino, the original one is in san giovanni, seems just too precious, but it is good.
i’m usually disappointed with andrea pica.
and i’ve found the staff at del teatro so rude and indifferent, yeah the gelato is good but i feel cheated eating there.
and now for the good news…
ciampini is my divine favorite. coming in at second is il gelato- the original in eur is worth a visit just for their reparto del cioccolato.
gracchi excellent. sadly fata morgana is no longer in ostiense so one has to trek all the way to quartiere africano, but yeah they make some subtle flavors.
there are two tonys in monteverde nuovo and most people from the hood claim the one in via dei colli portuensi to be the original one and better one and i do agree.
a new one opened up in monteverde vecchio- la gourmandise in via cavallotti. they are quite good with interesting and sublte flavors. miami also in monteverde vecchio, in piazza cucchi is a treat for the chocolate covering (just like when we were kids) on top of whatever flavor you want. the ice cream is good not great but sometimes i just crave the topping!
petrini in alberone, in via appia nuova is excellent. see if they have their menta romana for un gusto sublime. and in marconi, mela e cannella is worth the visit, try their amisticanza – a mix of various nut/dried fruit flavors. their ingredients are the real thing too.
cheers, michael
Michael: Thanks so much for your report! I concur on Giolitti, Le Palme, Old Bridge and Gracchi. Fatta is also in Prati, so not so far. I have to get up to Monteverde, as well as try all the others you mention.
I’ve heard similar reports from Teatro. too bad.
Hi there! This list needs some updating…sad to see that Aracoeli and Fior di Luna are no more :-(. I concur on the old standard places (Giolitti, Della Palma, Old Bridge) now disappointing. I had a very substandard cone, although as big as my head, from Old Bridge last week. I also don’t find San Crispino all that…a little too icy and precious. Tried Flor — pretty ordinary. Best so far was Gelateria del Teatro (lemon, rosemary and honey was amazing; so was sage and raspberry ripple) and Il Gelato di Claudio Torcè. A good experience at Alberto Pica today with riso alla cannella and something flavored with orange blossom water and chunks of candied orange rind. And Miami is just a sentimental favorite — not all gourmet and foodie, but that thick Nutella gelato with a chocolate dip top, panna and nuts…mmmmm….
I actually have updated this list:
http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2011/06/rome-gelato-update-june-2011.html
and here:
http://sweets.seriouseats.com/2011/10/best-gelato-in-rome.html
And am constantly updating the gelato entries in my app Eat Italy. Unfortunately I can’t go back and rewrite specific blog entries. But I do try to keep up with new ones.
Are you sure Fior di Luna is closed though? I was there a few weeks ago, and it was going strong.
And I must have just missed you at Pica! I was there today too, having Riso alla Canella. Great minds….