You know when you get something stuck in your head and it just won’t leave? Could be a song that runs through your mind while you’re trying to work. Or a ‘to do’ list that swells at 3am when you’re trying to get back to sleep.
Well, I got something stuck in my head a few months ago that refused to leave. It was a photograph of some cheese.
You’re probably thinking “The girl lives in Italy. Cheese schmeeze.” But this cheese was not your normal hunk of parmesan or globe of glistening mozzarella. These were daintily presented, beautiful wrapped, ash dusted perfect little goat cheeses. And they weren’t just some expensive treat imported from France. They were (or so I was told) from a little goat farm outside of Orvieto.
My friend Vince, who’s recently moved to Orvieto, had been telling me about this goat farm for a while. But it wasn’t until he posted a photograph on fb of his most recent purchases a few months ago that I really began to listen.
One thing you’ve got to understand is that while Italy has an awful lot of good sheep and cows milk cheese, goat cheese is still pretty rare. Especially the “French” kind that is really the only reason anyone goes to Paris for a weekend.
Finally, a few weeks ago, I managed to make it to Vince’s source: Fattoria dell Secondo Altopiano.
Located in the hills just west of Orvieto, the small farm is run by a young couple who started it from scratch. Alessandra is from Rome, and Emanuele is from Sicily and they somehow came up with the idea of starting this farm as a way to make a living and stay in the countryside, while running a sustainable business. Emanuele, a veterinarian, and Alessandra have created a slice of paradise where goat cheese is the happy outcome.
The farm is about 15 hectares and the goat shed and cheese making facilities are right in the center. Built almost entirely of wood, the barn shelters the 80 goats that make up their herd. I am a goat junky, and fall in love with almost any goat I see. But these babies were some of the most beautiful and happy I’ve ever seen. Along with the entire farm, they are raised biologically and biodynamicaly and treated homeopathically when possible.
The milk doesn’t have to travel very far, since the goat shed shares space with the cheese making facilities. Every day the goats are milked, and the milked turned into the gorgeous cheeses I had come to taste.
They make about a dozen types of of cheeses, all with raw, unpasteurized goat milk. Some are ready right away, just a few hours old. Others aged from any where from a few days to a few weeks. Alessandra takes our order, as we pick and choose from a tray she brings out to sample, as well as an extremely cute hand illustrated ‘menu’. Once we’ve chosen, Emanuele makes a trip to the cellar where the cheeses are aged. He then rolls some of the cheeses in herbs or other spices before handing them back to Alessandra to be artfully wrapped up for the ride home.
Me, being me, of course bought way too much cheese. Naturally I called it research (I had to try everything, right?) And who knew if I would ever be back? (right) But really, it was just hunger, with a bit of gluttony thrown in. Jane, who came with me, also came a way with over a kilo. The thing was, that every cheese we sampled was fantastic. As good as, or even better, than anything I’ve had in France. Certainly the best Italian-made goat cheese I’ve ever had.
Vince, however, was more reserved, buying just one perfect, ash-dusted pyramid. But he lives in Orvieto, and so can come back anytime he wants to. (especially now that he’s bought a motorino)
Me? I’m planning a trip back as soon as I can. Because I still have that cheese stuck in my head. If possible, even worse than before.
Fattoria il Secondo Altopiano
According to Alessandra, their cheese is also available at two restaurants in Rome: Passaguai and Sorpasso.
APONOVICH & JOHANSSON
This will be added to our “must visit” list. Thanks for the delicious report and photos.
thefarmgirlcooks
This whole post just made me smile. Must be the goats… they are so cute!
Now must get some cheese. 😉
(Forwarding this to a friend with goat farm)
Kasha
SHARON STREB
I was wondering–would I need a car to visit this farm if I visited Orvieta–
I live in Florence–and have a friend who is an organic farmer in the States but is visiting in a month. I would love to take her to some farms but dont have a car–do you know of any that we could visit using public transportation–Thanks for your help!
Elizabeth
Yes, you do need some form of transport. But I’m sure you could get a taxi to drive you up. Maybe if you call Alessandra, or write them an email, you can get a name of a taxi driver. I used to have one, but can’t seem to find it. The farm is about a 15 minute drive from Orvieto station.
SHARON STREB
Thanks for your help–I will contact Alessandra–
paninigirl
I am going to make a point to visit this wonderful place. Thank you for taking us there.
saretta m.
If you want, you can look at my blog post about Secondo Altopiano http://www.l-appetito-vien-leggendo.com/2011/10/fuga-in-fattoria-e-non-ritorno.html (i’m sorry but it is in italian…)! See you!
saretta
Open Kitchen Magazine
che meraviglia ci devo andare al più presto!
Beth G. Dean
I will be with a friend visiting Italy in September. I have saved your great article since this looks like a wonderful place to visit. Some of the pages on their website are “down”, so I am wondering if you know if it is possible to visit or do I need a reservation?
Elizabeth Minchilli
Hi Beth, you definitely need to call ahead. It’s a very small, non commercial set up.
Michelle Damiani
I stumbled on this post when I was googling “cheese tour umbria”… I moved to Spello 6 weeks ago and have been figuring out how to get to France just to get goat cheese. Just yesterday I decided that instead of trying to get out of Umbria, I should start investigating what is here in the form of cheeseways. So this could not be more perfect! Thank you ever so much for posting!
Elizabeth Minchilli
Michelle, you should also try the Caseificio Montecristo in Todi. It’s just off the Todi/Orvieto exit of the E45, in the first floor of the Euro Palace Hotel. They have lovely cheeses, including, seasonally, delicious goat cheese
Michelle
Goodness! That’s the other place I found the day I found your blog! If you have any other cheese focused destinations, do let me know. My dance card only includes these two (though I’m as excited about these two as if I had a year’s worth).
Edna Nowakowski
It was a great farm indeed when I’m looking at the pictures and goat cheese is one of my favorite and the cheese you posted look very delicious. Hope to visit the farm and give a taste of their local products especially the cheese. Thanks for sharing this post!
Italybound
Is it an organic farm? Sounds amazing. Traveling to Italy in May hope to be able to visit goat farm for some cheese.