It’s not always easy being married to an Italian. There are a lot of expectations. As you probably know by now, I’m not a bad cook. My range is wide, and I’m comfortable cooking everything from pizzas to crostatas. And pasta? I make it at least once a day.
But reproducing Mama’s dishes? That’s another story. Making orecchiette con le cime di rapa just like Domenico’s pugliese mother makes. That one threw me for a loop for the longest time.
I remember having it for the first time in Bari and thinking “hey, this seems pretty easy. You even cook the vegetables and pasta in the same pot.”
But back in my newly-wedded home, I tried often – and failed – to recreate this typical dish. Under cooked orecchiette. Over cooked orecchiette. Broccoli that fell apart. Broccoli that tasted nothing like mamma’s.
And then there was the whole thing about getting my hands on some orecchiette in the first place. This little ear shaped pasta is very much a pugliese thing, and although you’ll find ‘orecchiette’ shaped pasta in most super markets, they aren’t anywhere near the real thing.
Real orecchiette are thick, hard and – when cooked correctly – slightly chewy to the bite.
But today I’m happy to say that I’ve finally perfected my orecchiette con cime di rapa. It’s only taken me 20 years, and involves driving down to Bari to shop for ingredients.
I kid you not.
I know I bang on about local, seasonal ingredients a lot. And cime di rapa are a typical example. Although you can get some version of flowering broccoli here in Lazio, it is a completely different animal from the bunches I pick up at the market in Bari. The earth, climate and variety give the cima di rapa from Puglia a very specific, pungent, green taste that is unique. I’ve never quite found the exact same taste north of Naples.
So, whenever I’m in Bari I get at least a few kilos. They are not cheap, and much gets trimmed away. To prepare them for cooking you only want the tenderest of the leaves and the flowering heads. The thick stalks get thrown away.
I also load up on orecchiette. If I’m organized, I buy it from the pasta shop in my mother-in-law’s neighborhood. If not, I admit it, I buy the ‘four for the price of three’ packs at the Sarni on the autostrada. Not quite hand made, but still pretty darn good.
Thus equipped – with only a 500 kilometer drive to the market between me and my dish – I can proudly produce perfect orecchiette con cima di rapa.
I know few of you will be able to do the same. But I’m giving you my recipe anyway. Also dispensation to use whatever kind of flowering broccoli you find in your market.
Just don’t expect your – or anyone else’s – pugliese husband to be satisfied.
orecchiette con le cime di rapa
1 pound/ 500 gr. orecchiete pasta
2 pounds/1 kilo prepped cima di rapa (broccoli rabe)
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
red pepper flakes to taste (about 1/4 – 1/2 tsp)
4-6 anchovy filets
Prepare all your ingredients before you get started.
Wash and trim your greens. This took me the longest time to figure out. you want every bit that is tender, but that’s sort of subjective. Definitely the flowering head, or cima. Then the tender center leaves, as well as any bigger ones that seem tender.
Anchovies: you can use anchovies packed in oil, ready to go, but I like the ones that are preserved in salt. This means soaking them for about 10 minutes, in room temperature water. Then carefully opening them up, taking out the central bones, and rinsing them off. Cut them into small pieces.
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the orecchiette, and set timer for five minutes. After five minutes, add broccoli and bring back to steady simmer.
In the meantime, place oil in a pan that will be large enough to hold all the pasta and broccoli. Heat oil gently, and add garlic and red pepper. When garlic begins to become fragrant, add anchovies, mixing and mashing them up with a wooden spoon. Turn off heat so garlic doesn’t brown or burn.
After pasta has cooked for about 12 minutes total, start checking it. Orecchiette is a tricky pasta to get right. You want it to be cooked through, but still chewy. They will be more ‘al dente’ than other kinds.
When it is cooked, drain pasta and broccoli in a colander, reserving a cup of the cooking water.
Turn heat back on under olive oil, and add pasta to the pan. Stir and toss over low heat, so that pasta absorbs the oil. Add a bit of cooking water if you think it’s dry. But the broccoli should give the dish enough moisture.
Serve, making sure you divide the broccoli evenly into each dish, since it tends to
clump up.
Sally carrocino
Thank you for reminding me of this, as soon as we get home from our Christmas holiday I am going to make this.
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And here I thought Bari was a place Meryl Streep and Clint Eastwood made up 🙄
( lol ) xo
Lost in Provence
This is one of your posts that I know that I probably won’t make (although I will be on the lookout for broccoli rabe at the market just in case I am wrong) but that made me so happy just to see. I am completely foie gras’ed out tonight and felt like I was sucking vitamins through the screen just looking at this dish!
jodi
One year you gave me a bag of that oriecchette for Christmas. I made three different dishes with it, and every time I kept thinking “Why is it taking so long to cook?” Delicious, yes, and now I understand why this pasta is different from others.
Sharon J
This is one of my all-time favorite pasta dishes. I’ve never added anchovy, but I bet it is scrumptious. I will definintely give it a try.
Bob
Reading your blog has been a gift to me this year. I wish you a most joyous and prosperous New Year!
Elizabeth
Thank you Bob!
Anonymous
sounds easy !! I hope will definintely try it….but what is red pepper ??
Elizabeth Minchilli
Red pepper is hot red pepper, peperoncino in Italian.
Francesca
I love cima, can’t find it in France where we live so we took a ride to the great food market in Ventimiglia where I bought a big bunch. How is the best way to cook cima di rapa? Sautee or boiled/steamed. I thought someone told me once it needs to cook much longer than regular brocolli. Thanks and Merry Christmas. Francesca
Elizabeth
I like it slowly braised, with a bit of water and maybe some garlic. It shouldn’t take so long to cook, but you just have to trim the tougher stems.
Francesca
Grazie!
Anonymous
I make this all the time with regular broccoli and it’s always great. (I prefer to do broccoli rabe with sausage). If you want to take it up a notch, swirl in a pat of butter and some parm at the end.
Elizabeth
Parm and butter? The horror!! At least in Puglia. 😉