People are always asking me for advice on what to do in Umbria. Yes, we have a house there, so you’d think I’d have tons of answers. The problem is, we have a house there.
In other words, we are not tourists and so rarely do we head out from the comfort (and chores) of our own home to do things like sight see. You know what I mean. When is the last time you visited the Empire State Building you New Yorkers?
But a couple of weeks ago my friend Gillian was visiting. And since she had made such an effort to take me out and about when we were down in Positano last month, I thought it would be only fair to show her a bit of Umbria.
Naturally, I picked my favorite typically small, cute Umbrian village: Bevagna. I picked Bevagna because even though I’d been many times, I’d never really spent a lot of time wandering around. The problem was that I would usually arrive there post-winery visit, to meet someone for lunch. So by the time I would arrive – about 1:15 – the town would be shut tight, and that would be it.
But even what little I had seen of Bevagna had made me love it. One thing it’s got going for it is that it feels like the perfect medieval stone hill top village. But it’s not on a hill! While views might be nice, being able to arrive to a main square without sweating has it’s charms.
Bevagna is located along the banks of the Topino river, and one of my favorite parts of any visit is parking. The parking lot located right outside the Molino gate of the city has got to have the best view of any parking lot in Italy. Grassy banks lead right to the river, while a weeping willow frames the town in a way that’s almost too pretty.
The small bridge that leads over the river passes over what used to be the communal laundry. Nice to look at, and makes me appreciate my Miele more than ever.
This attention to preservation of a past way of life runs strong in Bevagna. Yes, there are gorgeous churches to visit, but the town has also recreated a series of artisan’s workshops that are dotted throughout the alleyways. You can stop by the Museo Communale for a map and then make your way to a paper, silk and candle making workshops. If you want to go all out, pay for the 7 euro combined ticket and visit the museum, small 18th century theatre and recreated Renaissance pharmacy.
And for an extra euro, theater and religion come together in big way in the church of Santa Maria Laurentia. I won’t spoil the drama for you. Just watch the video below.
I’ll be giving you some dining and shopping tips in Bevagna next week. But for now, I’ll just tell you that my favorite cookie store is here. It’s a small bakery that does sell cakes and bread and other baked goods. But it’s the cookies that I will actually make a detour for. Yes, they have the normal, dry, nut-filled biscotti that are made for dunking in the sweet Sagrantino wine. But they also make cookies that are completely their own, and that I’ve never seen before. Pistachio or almond topped butter cookies are so delicate they almost fall apart on the way to your mouth. Their Sagrantino and hazelnut biscotti are crisp and sugary. But my favorite are the almond and fig filled cookies which are basically fig newtons to which I’m pretty sure they’ve added crack.
Bevagna is here.
For information on the Circuito Museale Cittadino and Circuito Culturale dei Mestieri Medievali see here and here.
For information on the yearly festival, Il Mercato delle Gaite, when the artisans work shops are actually staffed and working see here.
Museo Civico di Bevagna
Corso Matteotti 70
Bevagna
Tel: 0742.3600.31
Pasticceria Polticchia
Via Fabio Alberti 9
Bevagna
If you’d like to combine a visit to Bevagna with a visit to a nearby winery, there is Paolo Bea, Caprai, Adanti and Antonelli
Fantastic!
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I was just lamenting that there’s not a cookie in the house and then I saw your photos and now I’m really a desperate woman! They look delicious. I stayed just outside of Bevagna once and loved the town-wish I had found your bakery.
I have to say I love when you add videos, Elizabeth. This one did indeed make me laugh.
And this town is lovely! If it were here in Provence, there would be those annoying ceramic “cigales” chirping every where you went. Old timey beauty plus crack fig newtons? I’m so there.
Bella Bevagna is where we escape from Rome. We are blessed to have an apartment inside the walls. The neighbours are so helpful and friendly, sharing of their produce, watering our plants etc.
I need to tell you that the women still use the river to wash their laundry and scrub away on the marble shelf there. Sometimes you see 2 or 3 women all scrubbing away. Beside the river here is a working Flour mill where I buy freshly ground wheat, dried bean and lentils.
Did you not visit the 2 AD Roman Mosaic baths and see the wonderful sea life mosaic’s?
Bevagna boast some of the best restaurants in Italy. We have been here 6 years and still have not managed to eat at them all. In August we have something on most evenings. Last night the cars were all blessed and a country westen band played while we ate fresh watermelon. Tonight the local Bevagna Band plays and fireworks afterwards. It is one of our two local Saints days.
Bevagna is inside the Montefalco Sagrantino wine area. Also the olive oil produced in this area is buona!
Funny enough, I didn’t know you could pay 1 euro to see the wooden statue of Christ. But Easter Sunday it is carried around the town in a magnificent procession . It takes 10 men to carry this large wooden statue.
The St Francisco church has placed on the wall the very stone that St Francis preached his sermon to the birds which he did nearby and passed through Bevagna.
There is so much more I could tell you about Bella Bevagna.
Come again!!
We just spent 8 nights in Orvieto. Of course we have family there, but it was a wonderful pause in our trip in Italy with our son, daughter-in-law and four grandchildren ages 11-16. The kids loved the freedom to wander and the opportunity to meet so many cousins and an aunt and uncle. The Duomo is spectacular.
Thanks, Elizabeth, for this wonderful armchair tour. I am into armchair touring these days and this one rocks. I had never heard of the city prior to reading your post. I always like to see places where the old ways are preserved and held out for people to see and appreciate. “What one euro gets you in Bevagna” made me smile. Thank you.
Oh – I forgot the cookies. Sugary and crisp – my kind of cookie.
Hmmmm…could a trip to Umbria be in my future? After reading this I think it should be! 🙂
It is a really great tour, thanks!
Do you know the names of the cookies?
Particularly the ones in the first photo on the left with what looks like jam.
I think that we’d all be very pleased to start baking batches of all of those cookies!
We stayed in Bevagna last summer – a fleeting visit – but were lukcy enough to be there for the Mercato Il Gaite. Fantastic to see the community at work. Loved the biscotti too. We were bike riding and went every morning to stock on a our mid morning snacks (if they lasted that long…)
Recipe for the cookies please???
I’ll have to ask them next time I’m there!
This is good, all look delicious.
coralspirit wasini
best euro ever spent!
We were in Bevagna just last week for lunch, so it is with great wistfulness (already!) that I revisit it here….Don’t forget to talk about the gnocchi with sagrantino sauce!