If you’re anything like me, then you too have been cooking your way through Yotam Ottolenghi’s latest cookbook Jerusalem. I’d kept hearing about it from absolutely everyone I know in just about every way possible. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram. Friends cooking, eating and rhapsodizing about how absolutely outstanding every single dish from this cookbook is. Julia Moskin even did a piece in the Times and asked readers to log in with their favorite dishes.
Cooking from Jerusalem has definitely become a ‘thing.’
But long before the book hit the shelves, there was the Ottolenghi’s eponymous restaurant in London. Located in Islington, I’d been trying to go there for the last couple of years. Dinner reservations are very hard to snag at the last minute (and I’m horribly unorganized about that sort of stuff) and the ‘no reservations’ lunch time service usually meant long lines that I’d rather avoid.
But last week we were up in London for Sophie’s graduation, and happened to be on a bus that took us right down Upper Road. On a whim, we jumped off and low and behold, had a seat at the communal table after just a five minute wait.
As short as the wait was, it was excruciating, since we were face to face with the dozen salads that were on offer that day.
If you know anything about Ottolenghi’s cooking, it’s all about vibrant textures, colors and tastes. Things are crunchy, luscious and fresh with just the right mixture of salty, sour and sweet. In other words, the Eastern Mediterranean food that you dream exists, but rarely find in your own back yard. And there they all were, gloriously piled high on big white platters, the cookbook brought to life.
The bright white dining room is mostly taken up by a long communal table. Diners take their seats, then decide which formula to order. It’s genius, since by the time you’ve had a chance to look over the salads, you want to order as many as possible. And you can. Three or four salads, either small or normal. Brilliant I tell you.
Between the three of us, we were pretty much able to sample them all. And as beautiful as they were, they tasted even better. While I loved my coconut basmati rice, I think it was the roasted eggplant with feta, yoghurt and pickled cucumbers that stole my heart. Everything was layered with fresh herbs and swirls of yogurt.
I’m a bit sad that we over did it with the salads, since we were too full to try any of the amazing looking desserts.
I realize that we were very lucky, since for some reason there was almost no wait. If, instead, you’re in a hurry, and don’t want to stand in line, they also offer take out, which you can take down the street to the little park.
Or, you can just do what everyone else in the world is doing, and buy a copy of Jerusalem. I’ve made 12 dishes from it so far. You?
Ottolenghi
287 Upper Street
London N1 2TZ
Monday – Saturday 8am to 10:30pm
Sunday 9am-7pm
+44-207.7288-145.
Sewing Princess
I was there in April…I was taking a sewing course around the corner in Islington when I accidentally found out Ottolenghi was there. We were there after 1.30 so the line went super fast. I certainly had too much food but loved it. My husband didn’t quite like how cold the chicken main course was. Room temperature would have enhanced the flavors. I didn’t try any recipe as I feared I wouldn’t find the ingredients in Italy (I find it the biggest shortcoming of living here). Were you able to find all you need or do you normally source yours abroad?
Elizabeth Minchilli
I’ve found pretty much everything I need, but have also improvised where necessary. For instance, I made the stuffed Romana peppers, and used frigitelli peppers stuffed with pork instead of lamb (that’s what I had in the house) and used a lot of mint, but no dill since I didn’t have any.
Anonymous
Going to London for first time. Love food, art, architecture. Any great suggestions of where to stay?
Elizabeth
I’ve become a huge fan of airbnb when I’m in London. Much more affordable than hotels, and with more room. I’ve had great experiences
Julia { dinners with friends }
What a nice Ottolenghi recap – makes me want to hop across the pond {tomorrow!}. We managed to fit a lunch at the Belgravia location {& a second lunch at Nopi} into our last London layover – with no long lines/wait at either location!
A long time favorite recipe around here is Shakshuka {first discovered in Yotam’s column in The Guardian}, which gets a different herb/spice twist in “Jerusalem”. I also keep going back to the Roast Chicken with Clementines, Fennel & Arak, Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Fresh Figs – and the fragrant Roasted Cauliflower & Hazelnut Salad which is on tonight’s menu.
Elizabeth Minchilli
I wish we had had the time to go to Nopi. Next time for sure.
I made Shakshuka last night, and tonight made the lentil and rice dish. So simple, but so delicious!
Julia { dinners with friends }
Nopi is worth another trip – a gorgeous space, especially at lunch time {make sure to check out the mirror hall bathroom!}
And I just bookmarked the Mejadra recipe {lentil, rice & onion} … will try next 🙂
Aubrey Dunnuck
I visited one of the Ottolenghi takeaway shops last fall and it was just fabulous. My friend and I tried four or five salads between us, all wonderful. And I still think about the buttery plum cake I had as dessert! If we’d had more time I would have loved to try for an actual meal at the sit down restaurant. I’ll just have to settle for cooking my own (or maybe planning another trip back to London!)
Phyllis @ Oracibo
Elizabeth, thanks for the beautiful photos, can hardly wait to get back to London. I am hoping to receive both Plenty and Jerusalem for my birthday next week. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Ciao, P