When I received an invitation to visit Rimini I said yes right away. Even before I had thoroughly checked out what the trip was actually about, I was just thankful for the excuse to visit this town.
I’d always wanted to visit, but never had the excuse. Nor could I ever find anyone else to go with me
Because, well, Rimini doesn’t have the best reputation when it comes to Italian beach towns. Yes, it’s known for its long and wide beaches. But those beaches? Full of some of the biggest and most crowded stabilimenti (beach clubs ) in Italy. Kilometers and kilometers of them as far as the eye can see. But it all sounded so ‘exotic’ to me, that I jumped at the chance to spend two days there.
And you know what? I loved it.
I was invited to be a judge at the Gelato World Tour (more on that later) but made sure I got in a day before the event so I had time to check  out the city and eat around town (more on that later too). What surprised me the most was how empty it was. While Rimini might be packed to the brim all summer long, the beach (and hotels) tend to empty out the first week of September.Â
So here are a few photos as well as what I’m calling Rules for Visiting Rimini
- Go off season: The high season for Rimini is the summer, with July and August making the beaches look like parking lots. Better to go either early – May – or late – September. The families and party people have long since left, and the only folks you’ll run into are retirees and people attending conferences like the World Gelato Tour.
- Where to stay: On the beach front. You’re here to do beach (mostly) so be as close as possible. With over 15 kilometers of beach, lined with endless hotels, you’ll find something. Ask about package deals that include a chair and umbrella at the beach club (see below). Remember to ask for a room with a view. Because Rimini the other way is nothing to write home about.
- How to Beach: Remember, this is all about stabilimenti (beach clubs). Don’t head here thinking you are going to find your own secluded spot. Just embrace the group mentality and think of it as a scene from Fellini film (Fellini was from Rimini by the way). That said, take advantage of the low season to secure a spot in prima fila, the first row of beach chairs and umbrellas right at the water’s edge.
- Centro Storico: Rimini is not all beach all the time. That was the biggest shocker for me. The urban centro storico is gorgeous and dates back to Roman times. Make sure you see the Arch of Augustus and Ponte Tiberio, located at opposite ends of the town. Another revelation was the Domus del Chirugo, or Surgeon’s House. An amazing intact house discovered in 1989 with beautiful mosaics displayed in situ in the most well kept archeological site I’ve ever seen in Italy. As an added bonus head to the nearby museum to see even more mosaics, including many featuring fish and octopi (I mean, who doesn’t like that?) Also, somehow, I had completely forgotten that Alberti’s masterpiece the Tempio Malatestiano was there, with one of Piero della Francesca’s most famous frescos and the bas reliefs and almost-too-cute putti by Agostino di Duccio.
- Borg: I kept reading about The Borg and thinking it was some sort of sci-fi festival. In reality it is the oldest part of Rimini, a sort of preserved-in-time fishing village at the edge of the port. With low, brightly colored, two story buildings it reminded me a lot of Burano. The evening I visited was their annual Festa and all the residents had set up tables in the street to celebrate. This is where all my favorite restaurants were located. (more later)
- Walk: One of my favorite things though, was getting up early to watch the sun rise. As I made my way to the beach each morning, to take an hour long walk (remember, I was there to eat an insane amount of gelato), I was almost completely alone. Not what most people think of when they hear the word Rimini, but the memory that I’m taking back home with me.
I visited Rimini at the invitation of the Gelato World Tour and stayed at the Savoia Hotel Rimini as their guest.
Leslie Peterson
Elizabeth – I will be staying somewhat near Rimini at the beginning of October – will the beach clubs still be open or does the season end in September?
Elizabeth
I think it depends on the weather. Most will probably be closed, but the beach is still there!
nwlogan
Thank goodness you “remembered” the Tempio! There is really nothing like it, even in Italy; definitely not just “another church.”
I too was pleasantly surprised by the Borg (though I had no idea that was what it was called. We just stumbled upon it. I have no plans to go back, but your post is making wish I did!
Patricia Russell
Thank you for the best emails that I receive in my mailbox.. LOVE Salvatore – and his wee doggie!
Mmmmmmh- I’m going to make that frittata for lunch! Grazie!
Oh and putting Rimini on my list in the off season!
Elizabeth
Glad you like them! I’m about to start a monthly newsletter too, that I hope you’ll like as much.
Martha
OH Newsletter. I’ll sign up for that.
For inexplicable reasons I have long considered The Tempio as ‘my church’ in Italy. Once participated in (an off-season) mass with 4 priests and 3 old nonnas. I wanted to go back outside to lunch, but the priests seemed so happy to have a newcomer there that I stayed until the end.
Another time, I was tucked up in a corner drawing the puti. After satisfying himself that I was for real, the priest protected my work-space, shooing visiting school children away from the ‘artist.’
Just a general comment, unless you have your heart set on a sand & bucket holiday, beach towns out of season offer innumerable treasures and charms.
Caenis
Lovely post Elizabeth, thank you
Tiana Kai
Works for me. Off season is the best season. I am not envious of beach shots where everyone is packed like sardines, this is more my style! 😉
Julia della Croce
Well advised, Elizabeth. I’m not much of a beach goer, but it seemed like a good spot for the Gelato championships. My favorite part of the city is the centro storico, historic center. With its archeological sites and the Alberti cathedral. It was fun being there with you. Hope to see you again soon.
Elizabeth
I loved the center too! And it was great spending time with you there and catching up a bit.
Misha
Hi Elizabeth! I actually read your post before visiting Rimini in October. I’d love to share with you my experiences: https://www.mishasays.com/post/rimini-in-the-offseason
Elizabeth
Thanks!