radicchio {risotto}

Even though radicchio is gorgeous when raw, it’s not my favorite way to eat it. I know that if I simply tear the leaves up, put them in a wooden bowl and toss them with olive oil, a splash of vinegar and some salt they will retain their almost painfully brilliant crimson hue. But the bitterness, and slightly tough texture, of raw radicchio just doesn’t do it for me.

If I do use radicchio in salads I tend  chop it finely, to counteract the tough factor, and to temper the bitterness I throw in something sweet like berries or fruit, or rich like nuts or pork. (yes, pork is the answer to most of life’s questions)

My preferred way to consume radicchio is cooked. When it is cooked the bitterness is tamed and that tough edge turns silky. I love it grilled, or roasted, with or without extras like pancetta. And a drizzle of something sweet and sour, like balsamic, never hurts.

But my all time, favorite way to consume this gorgeous, bitter leaf, is slowly cooked with lots of starch. Yes, I’m talking about pasta or – even better – risotto.

When I use radicchio to make risotto I tend to use way more radicchio than you’d think necessary. I like the final dish to be just about 50/50. Since the leaves cook down quite a bit, more is always better.

This dish is pretty forgiving when it comes to the type of radicchio you use. I used the lovely loose leaf Treviso variety here, but you can just as easily use the easier-to-find and less-expensive tight balls of Chioggia. I used Carnaroli rice, but you could use any short grain starchy rice like Arborio or Vialone nano. Always use some sort of cheese. The dairy will not only add a richness, but the also that umani flavor that you are not going to get from the sharp bitterness of radicchio. My favorite choice is to mix in a tub of mascarpone at the end, but a cup of grated hard cheese – such as parmigiano or pecorino – will do in a pinch. In addition to the broth (and this can be any light vegetable or meat based broth) I like a cup of red wine to add another layer of richness and a bit of acidity.

The only thing I can’t help you with is the looks of this dish. It’s at the complete other end of the gorgeous spectrum from the original jewel-like heads of fresh radicchio you started out with. Gone is the decisive shade of crimson, to be replaced by……the closest I can come to describing the color of the finished dish  is that abomination that Pantone named the Color of the Year 2015:  Marsala. Kind of muddy, wishing it were either pinker or redder, it suffered much abuse when it was announced. No one liked it.

Well, even though this risotto is not pretty, at least the color is trending.

Print

radicchio {risotto}

Prep 10 mins

Cook 20 mins

Total 30 mins

Author Elizabeth

Yield 4

Ingredients

• 3 heads small of radicchio, chopped (about 1/2 kilo or a 1 pound)
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tsp salt
• 400 grams Carnaroli rice
• 1 cup red wine
• 6-8 cups broth
• 1 cup grated pecorino (not pecorino romano, which is too strong, but a softer Tuscan variety)
• black pepper

Instructions

1. Heat the broth and keep it at a very low simmer.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with the olive oil in a large pot. Add the chopped onions and salt and cook over medium heat until softened, about 6 minutes.
3. Add the rice, and stir, toasting the rice for about 3 minutes. Add the radicchio, and stir. It will seem like a lot, but it will start to reduce very quickly. When it is mostly wilted, add the red wine, stirring, to let it evaporate.
4. Now you can start adding the broth, with a ladle. At the beginning you can add a few ladlefuls, and let it cook away, at a very low simmer, stirring every so often. Keep adding more broth, ladle by ladle full, until the rice is cooked but still al dente. You don’t want to over cook it.
5. Turn off the heat and add the cheese and a bit more broth, stirring to mix it in well. It should be a bit soupy. Add the rest of the butter, stir and taste to adjust for seasoning. I usually grate fresh pepper on top, and a bit more grated cheese.