Even though we spend a lot of time in Umbria in the summers, it’s the fall and winter that I love the best. There’s something about the smell of a wood fire, dramatic grey skies and the monotone landscape that makes me want to take long walks and then come inside to hearty meals while the logs crackle and spark. (ok, I admit it, I kind of like the sitting by the fire eating and cooking part a bit more than the walking part)
There is one element of this season, though, that I have conflicted feelings about: hunting. In general, I am mostly pro-hunting when it comes to Umbria. I know my neighbors have been hunting all their lives, as have generations before them. I also know that when it comes to hunting wild boar, there is a serious need to keep the population under control. The boars, if left unchecked, have no natural predators and do real damage to crops and vineyards.
My only true complaint is that the hunters come unnervingly close to our house, and the guns sound not only scary, but it makes me think twice about going out for that walk (granted, it doesn’t take much to keep me indoors) or even letting Pico out the front door.
At the same time I also fully understand that I’m a latecomer to this landscape and am in no position to complain. And also? There are definite benefits to all this hunting as well.
This past weekend we had a boar fest at my friend Laura’s house. Laura’s beautiful home is located in one of the wildest areas around Todi. In other words there are LOTS of boars roaming around. While they mostly stay hidden in the woods during the day, at night they are out rooting around the surrounding fields including, often, in Laura’s vineyard.
So Laura welcomes the fact that there are groups of hunters that stake claim to her land during hunting season. It’s a win win situation. The hunters enjoy the sport, Laura gets a handle on the damage to her land, and us? We get to help her enjoy the gifts of wild boar meat that show up in her kitchen regularly. Laura fully realizes that boars are not simply some nuisance, but form an integral part of the cultural, culinary and historical backdrop to this part of Italy. In fact, Laura’s esteem and respect for her four footed neighbors is so high, that she chose them as the emblem for the wine she produces.
Helping Laura deal with the boar in the kitchen is Paola. Paola is not only 100% Umbrian, but is also an excellent chef, and so knows her way around a boar (or a rabbit or a goose for that matter). One of her signature dishes is Ragù di Cinghiale. Since boar meat is so lean, Paola has devised her own particular way of making this iconic Umbrian speciality. While you may not have wild boar at your disposal, I’m thinking you can apply this method to any kind of lean meat ragù
I always learn something new when I spend time with Paola in the kitchen. This time I thought I’d try to share this unique experience with you, and so shot this little video while she was cooking up the meal. Enjoy!
Podere Calzone is available for rentals or parties.
And you can find out more about their wine, Rosso E420, which is available for sale in the USA, here.
The gorgeous plates are produced by Ubaldo Grazia in Deruta, and were custom made for Laura.
This video makes me want to go into the kitchen and whip up a batch of ragu. Sadly I have no cinghiale! I wonder if anyone in southern CA sells it?
I know that D’Artagnan sells it, online, so you can always order it! http://www.dartagnan.com/meat-and-game/Wild-Boar-Meat,default,sc.html
For Southern California try Vernon, CA based Broadleaf Game (800) 336-3844 http://www.broadleafgame.com. They are local to LA and ship same day
Thank you, it was lovely. I really enjoy these vignettes of Italian life.
Today’s post on cinghiale ragu is delightful!
Thank you. Makes me miss annual visits to la Bella Italia more than ever!
perfetto! Looks like a lovely, cozy afternoon. And poor Pico!
yes, poor Pico! Recovering from a dog bite, but doing much better now.
Elizabeth– great video–love seeing Laura and Podere Calzone again. What’s amazing about this video is that everything Paola used was from Laura’s garden and grounds—cinghiale, tomatoes, wine and all served on local Ubaldos majolica——fantastic work!!!!thanks for the trip to Umbria.
Yes! Glad you noticed. Also, don’t forget the olive oil!
Yes, another video!
I have never cooked with wild boar but have eaten it. Adding wild board ragù to my list of dishes I need to make.
Absolutely LOVED the video and everything about it! You nailed it Elizabeth- I felt like I was right there in Laura’s beautiful kitchen having a glass of Boar wine while she cooked. A special treat – thanks!
That looks lush love!
Grazie again Elizabeth for showing how simple great food can be.
Gnam! One of my all-time favorites. I just had wild boar at a restaurant in Naples . . .Florida. The owner said it came from a purveyor in Texas. In addition to D’Artagnan, I remember hearing that boar was being farm-raised in Canada somewhere.Thank you for the wonderful video . . . enchanting. Italy in the winter has its own special charms.
Great video. Big hugs to Pico from, of all places, Pico Blvd., Santa MonicA, CA.
Hi street! Actually, he’s named after a 15th century Florentine poet. But, whatever.
Elizabeth, Thanks for posting this. Going to have to try it now!
Ciao
Lovely video and music….it made me so hungry but weren”t the women allowed at the table…..? I hope the guys appreciated their dinner!
One woman was at the head of the table and the other woman was busy filming it all! But no, Paola was still busy in the kitchen.
Lovely! And mille grazie, because I impulse bought some ground wild boar (from the freezer section of Bristol Farms, for my fellow Southern Californians) with the intention of making ragu but hadn’t thought through how I would do it.
“impulse bought some ground wild boar” is not a phrase you hear too often.
I made this on Sunday and it was fabulous! My husband is hunter and we have a freezer full of wild boar and venison. I’ve followed other recipes for this dish before and they are all very involved and require hours of simmering. This was brillantly simple to prepare and delicious! I just need one of those beautiful ceramic pasta bowl….
I’m so glad you were able to make it! With some recipes, I know a lot of people will be making them, but with this one I had my doubts, since, well, not everyone has access to boar!
Lots of boar running around Hawaii–in very unlikely places–but not available in stores much, mostly restaurants get it–however! we do have ground Bison at my local Safeway now–grass fed even 🙂 and this is a fairly good sub for boar in a ragu like this. (ONCE someone gave me a boar shank, enough meat on it to make a fine ragu–nothing really like it is there)
I would imagine that the boar on Hawaii tastes different than here? Because of what they are eating in the wild?
This looks fantastic. Sadly, there is no recipe to follow
Don’t be too sad. The recipe is clearly embedded in the video. You just have to watch it. 😉