When people ask me when is the best time to come to Rome, I always tell them that I love the winter. First of all, it’s blissfully empty. Even though there will always be tourists in Rome (thank god!), during January and February there are few of the larger tours groups that make getting around the center a bit of a challenge. But I also love the weather. Rome is a city made for walking, and the brisk temperatures these months bring means that you are never flagging like you would under the unforgiving heat of summer.
And even though it’s cool, and definitely wintery, there are still days when the sun is shining and the sky is so blue it can make you cry. And it’s days like this, when, as much as I love being in Rome, I also start longing for an escape.
A lot of people don’t realize how close Rome is to the beach. It’s really only a 40 minute drive away, and before you know it you can have your feet in the sand and breath in the sea air. My friend Gillian, being the beach bum that she is, takes full advantage of this proximity. She will take absolutely any excuse to head beachward, whatever the season.
So yesterday, when Domenico and I decided a seafood lunch escape might be a good idea on this sunny Sunday in Rome, we only had to text Gillian two words, “beach day?” and she had it all under control.
She’s been going to Paradise Beach up in Maccarese ever since she arrived in Rome 8 years ago. Not only is that a lot of beach, it’s also a lot of spaghetti alle vongole. Because you know lunch is the main part of any sort of Italian activity.
This strip of coast is wall to wall stabiliimenti (beach clubs) and it’s hard to differentiate one from the other. But everyone has their favorite, and after much research Gillian has declared Paradise Beach to be perfect. It has the correct ratio of relaxed setting to good food. Plus? The owners are super nice.
As the sun played hide and seek behind the fluffy clouds we settled into our table with our feet literally in the sand. Gillian has been coming here for so long, that we didn’t even have to order, they already knew what we wanted. Spaghetti alle vongole, full of massive amounts of vongole veraci. Then a mixture of fried calamari and totani, crispy and piping hot. Our main course was a perfectly grilled spigola which made me remember that when it comes to fish, fresh and simple make all the difference.
As we sipped our bottle of Pecorino I was kind of wishing we had brought Pico along. But there were so many other dogs to pet, it kind of made up for it.
After our slice of chocolate and orange marmalade crostata (which I’m going to try to figure out the recipe for as soon as possible) we took a long walk on the empty beach. It was very tempting to lay down on one of the letttini in the last rays of the setting sun, but we had to get back to Rome. Which, as it turns out, is even nearer to Paradise than I realized.
Paradise Beach
Via Monti dell’Ara 425 Maccarese
+39 06 6671451
Remember I said Gillian was a beach expert? She’s just published her latest ebook on the subject:
Amalfi Coast Travel Essentials, so you can have your own personal beach guru in your pocket for your next trip.
Great minds think alike: we also had fritto misto di calamari e gamberi yesterday at our neighborhood place Il Pigno, here in Vetralla with a half portion of pici all’ amatriciana to begin
Looks and sounds like a great little day trip!
Sarah
Sweet Spontaneity
I see there is a regional train to Maccarese but then, I understand, there is a bus. Is this correct? Do you know if the bus is right near the train station? I like to imagine (yes, imagine) there is the possibility of then getting a taxi when arriving at that train station though realize it is likely small and that may not be possible.
Thanks for any insight on how to reach this wonderful place without driving.
Grazie
Argh! Sorry but I don’t have an easy answer to this. Perhaps Gillian will chime in with some advice.
Macarese is difficult to reach without a car. You can go to Santa Marinella, (where Elizabeth has some great restaurant recommendations) or Ostia both of which are easy train rides from Termini station. In Ostia, La Vecchia Pineta is a good choice.
When it gets warm, you need to take Pico to Bau Beach. It’s a blast and they have nice vegan sandwiches (you know they must be nice for ME to say that!).
We saw what must be Raina’s sister from another mother at the restaurant!
Paradise indeed! How nice to be able to do this! Too cold and windy on our and the City hasn’t taken too kindly to resto’s on the beaches here and you should see our amazing beaches!
Lovely. The clam shells are so beautiful. We will be in Fiumicino for one night only next month. Any restaurant favorites?
Hi Elizabeth, I so enjoyed my afternoon in Paradise with you as I worked by the window and watched the snow come down and the temps head down to zero and lower yet again. You and your posse live in the better place! Cheers.
I haven’t been to the shore near Rome, but I think you are spot on about the time of year. I was there in February 2012, right after the snow and except for one drippy day, it was perfect. Cool enough to be able to walk briskly everywhere, not frantically crowded), but never uncomfortably cold. I’m thinking early December for my next trip.
Early December is perfect for Rome, since it will be all dressed up for Christmas.
We’re planning to visit again in Rome sometime this year. Good thing I learned about this paradise beach day trip. This is something I would like to add to my itinerary. Thanks for sharing this with us. Anyway, I like your photos so much, very nicely taken. Gotta try that Spaghetti alle vongole, It looks very delicious.