Last year I was all about the bread machine. I know, I know. Hard-core bread bakers scoff (and that’s putting it lightly) at the bread machine. But let me tell you, when you have great ingredients (Mulino Marino flour, organic pumpkin seeds, etc.) things can turn out pretty swell.
Everyone told me I’d end up getting tired of it. And true, I haven’t been making bread as often as I was last year. I do have my reasons, and they don’t have anything to do with falling out of love with my machine. Sophie is now away at University, so that cuts our family consumption of bread by about half. Emma doesn’t really eat much bread. So, I’ve been buying bread, instead of baking it, since it just seems to make more sense for the small quantities we are eating.
Where have I been buying bread, you ask? I’m even more picky about buying bread that most other things, if that is possible. I figure, if I’m gonna invest in those calories, they better be worth it. Here follows my list of best breads in Rome. A great list if you happen to live in Rome. But believe me, these places are worth a visit even if you’re just here for vacation.
Roscioli
This Roman institution is located just off Via Giubonari, near Campo dei Fiori. It’s right around the corner from Domenico’s office, so it’s Domenico who literally brings home the bread. Which makes it much easier for me, since this means I don’t have to decide between the two dozen or so types of on bread on offer. (photo above) Baker extraordinaire Pierluigi Roscioli (whose father, Marco, founded this bakery in the ’70’s) presides over all the baking done here, using a decade’s old mother. Lately we’ve been getting a loaf that mixes farina di farro with rye. But our favorite are the tozzetti, small odd shaped rolls that are very chewy, slightly sour and only last for about 24 hours tops (although they are good toasted the next morning). When we need something that lasts a bit longer, his pane di lariano is superb. And did I mention they have the best pizza bianca in Rome?
Panella
This is almost like a bread museum, or some other kind of institution, rather than an old–fashioned bakery. So don’t come here looking for charm or quaintness. But do come here for excellent bread. They don’t call this place “Arte del Pane” for nothing. They really do take bread–making to an entirely different level here. This is where I go when I am having a dinner party, and want something a bit different: bread with things in it, like olives or walnuts. Or gorgeously sculpted rolls. But don’t be fooled, it tastes incredible too, it’s not all show. 
Tricolore
This is my newest obsession. Tricolore opened last month, on Via Urbana, and is already a huge success, despite their total lack of promotion. The space is a bit confusing, since if you look in the window it seems like a kitchen display store. It’s actually a cooking school. But more importantly for me, they make and sell some of the best bread I’ve had in Rome. They use it to craft their own gourmet sandwiches (which are awesome – if a bit expensive) but also sell incredible loaves at hard-to–believe normal prices. They are using Mulino Marino and Mulino Rosso flours, so that explains part of it. But also the fact that Franco Palermo is the guy behind the bread (he taught Gabriele Bonci a thing or two) is the other half of the equation. My favorites so far include the classic baguette, small loaves full of chunks of apple, and small yellow buns made from Marino polenta.
Pizzarium
Ok. I don’t drag myself out to Via Cipro that often to buy bread from the justifiably famous Bonci , but I should. And if you live nearby, you should. Bonci is better known for his extraordinay pizza, and most people don’t even realize me makes bread as well. Lately I’ve seen his bread at other outposts, like Pomarius, up in Monteverde. But I guess I’m more than happy that his friend Palermo is now turning out loaves at Tricolore. Like Palermo, Bonci uses only the best flour, usually Mulino Marino.
In January I’ve signed up for a cooking class at Tricolore, taught by Bonci, on how to make bread and pizza. So, I figure I’ll be back to making my own again real soon. But in the meantime, I’ll shop.
Panella
Via Merulana 54
Roscioli
Via dei Chiavari 34
Tricolore
Via Urbana 126
Pizzarium
Via della Meloria 43
I also quite like the forno in Campo de’Fiori and the one on Via del Moro, in Trastevere too.
I’ll have to raid Tricolore to see if they have maritozzi on offer.
I’m not a huge fan of the Forno in Campo dei Fiori. I know everyone else likes it, but I prefer Roscioli. But I do like Renella, in Trastevere. Especially since it is open on Sundays!
I prefer Roscoili as well, plus they are a lot nicer.
I got tired of saying “Grazie” to the cashier at the Forno and not getting a response.
When I am not in Genzano (pane di Genzano) I like Roscoili as well for pizza bianca. There are some nice places in the ghetto as well, and if you like german style breads with seeds go to the austrian bakery.
That’s true Sarah May. I love Urbani, and was going to put them here. I especially love their ‘osse’ and pizze rosse.
I also love Dolce Roma, and always forget they have such delicious bread.
(but I did just post about them the other day, so I don’t feel so bad)
I am just back from the ghetto having stocked up on my daily dose of bones, the crusty small loaves called “OssI’ at the forno Urbani. By the time I had gotten back to the Campo I had already devoured one entire Osso. It really has a crust like no other bread in the world that I know of. Great list. By the way the fresh fettucini at the little “salumi” counter attached to the bakery are marvelous
Great list, thank you. I’ve been to Roscioli but not the others. I’ll definitely check these out when I’m back in March.
great wrap up! I would have added Forno campo de Fiori, too.
In my area – northwestern Rome – Giammona in via de Carolis is also excellent.
My favorite in your list is Panella: a must for Romans and tourists alike 🙂