london pub grub: the bull & last

While in London last week I somehow stumbled across one of the best meals I’ve had in a very long time. I was visiting Sophie and was looking for a place to eat somewhere sort of near where she lives, in North London. After browsing around Chowhound, and other London blogs, I kept coming back to the Bull & Last. The location was perfect – a 20 minute walk from Sophie’s apartment – and the comments included phrases like “as good as it gets” and “gastropub perfection.”

If you’re used to eating in central London, this place will seem like a hike to get to. It’s just down the road from the Gospel Oak tube stop, in a neighborhood you’ve likely never been to. But don’t let that put you off. Make the effort.

The pub really feels like a pub. We walked in and the main room was full and bustling, with the bar stretching down one side. But we were soon led upstairs, to the dining room which – if I could design a cozy English dining room myself – this would be it. Wooden floors, slightly buckled by time. Pale green walls covered in hunting and fishing prints. A huge moose head over the fireplace. We were lead to one of the mismatched tables that dotted the room. Softly lit, by lamps and candles. If downstairs was all hustle and bustle, the upstairs was all cozy comfort.

The Bull & Last has one of those difficult menus. At least for me, since I wanted to try just about everything. Fried Duck Egg? Crisp Pig’s Cheek? And these were just starters. The extremely friendly waiter took pity on us, and suggested that we just order the Homemade Charcuterie Board. “It’s what we’re known for. You can split it. You’ll be very happy.”

Happy? I would hazard to say that their Homemade Charcuterie Board is worth a trip to London for. Duck Prosciutto, Ham Hock Terrine, Rillettes, Pig’s Head, with perfect Remoulade. And the Chicken Liver Parfait literally brought on goosebumps. All house made, all perfection.

Next up Sophie ordered the Whole Baby Chicken, which she declared was the best she had ever eaten. Brought to the table in a much used cooking dish, the crispy skin was glistening. The bird was sitting on a bed of roasted leeks and a hefty dollop of mash pulled it all together.

I went straight for the Slow Cooked Ox Cheek. I barely had to look at it and it fell apart, it was so tender. The parsley risotto that was served with it could have been a dish on its own: al dente nibs of rice, coated with and cooked in a tangy parsley puree. And – oh – just for the fun of it – two thick marrow bones stuffed with a mix of marrow and foie gras. Heaven.

Although we really shouldn’t have, we somehow managed to order desert: slow roasted apricots topped with homemade ice cream.

Although Sophie will be living at the opposite end of town next year, I’m already thinking about my next visit, when we can head back to the Bull & Last. Even if it means a long tube ride. And a flight up from Rome.










The Bull & Last
168 Highgate Road
020 7267 3641