February always presents a problem. In theory I’m still in the post holiday “eat-less” mode. But at the same time it’s really cold outside, and my body is begging more for calories (even if it knows full well it doesn’t need them).
So while my mind is telling me to eat a nice piece of fruit, my legs are walking me in another direction. Often towards one of my favorite pastry shops in Rome, Dagnino.
Dagnino has got to be one of the strangest and most wonderful places in Rome. This Sicilian pastry shop is absolutely stuck in a time warp that takes you back to the late ‘Sixites. The setting is in a sort of underpass/mall that runs beneath a modern building from one street to another, a block from Piazza Repubblica. If you didn’t know it was there, there’s no way you stumble upon it.
Why do I love it so much? First of all, the above mentioned time-warp thing. The interiors have all the original decoration and furnishings: banquet seating, vintage murals, marble floors and cloth covered wooden tables.
I also love the colors. On a cold and windy February afternoon there is something about the pastel tones of bright pink ‘gelato di campagna’, the moss green cassata and glistening candied clementines that just makes me happy. I mean, who doesn’t love looking at a bright and shiny row of marzipan tomatoes?
And the sound track to my reveries? A pianist (I kid you not) playing away on a shiny grand on Sunday afternoons.
But back to the pastries, which is what brings me here in the first place. While I usually go for one of the Sicilian specialties – a mini cassata or a cannoli – I’m just as likely to load up on whatever seasonal holiday sweets are on offer. If they have any sort of fried pastry stuffed with sweetened ricotta, just buy it, and ask questions later. Or, if you’re there in the next few weeks, their frappe and castagnoli for Carnevale are among the best in Rome.
I wish I could say I also go there for the excellent service. But I can’t. For some reason everyone in the shop – from the owners to the pastry girls and barmen – has taken a cranky pill. But don’t let that put you off. One look at the pastries – and a dose of the piano lounge – will brighten up your winter doldrums.
Dagnino
Galleria Esedra
Via V. Emanuele Orlando, 75 Roma
06.481.8660
Note: This is also a great place for lunch, since their tavola calda features delicious Sicilian dishes like arancini and baked pasta.
spacedlaw
I bought tea there once and the service was indeed cranky. But they do have the most wonderful things.
barbara
ci sono stata…le cassatine sono fantastiche!!!!
Anonymous
I love their pastries and I can’t agree about the service. I was giving a party over the summer and ordered both savory and sweet treats. Dealing with the people there was wonderful and they were very nice about bringing it all out to our car and not letting me carry a thing (I did anyhow).
Elizabeth
So glad to hear you had a good experience! I’ve been going there for about 20 years, and they still make me pay for my pastry and coffee before letting me touch anything. And taking photographs? You’d think I was stealing their soul.
kipsadventures
Walking by D’agnino is always such a feast for the eyes. And Yup they sure are cranky souls. couldn’t agree more.
Jojo
Those pastel treats look scrumptious!!
Panos Nicolaou
I love the place but after three visits I just can’t take the attitute of
the staff; agressive, sour and rude.
Elizabeth
Yes, sadly, so true. But I find the sweetness of the pastries makes up for the bitterness of the staff. 🙂
Anonymous
Looking for a wonderful Pasticceria siciliana Pasticceria Siciliana without the attitude? Try Nobel on Via della Mercede, 19 not far from Piazza di San Silvestro and the Post Office. They moved this autumn from Via Tuscolana. A small place with friendly service and great pastries.
Elizabeth
I love Nobel! I wrote about them ages ago, for Food & Wine. Did they move their restaurant too?
Anonymous
Eventually the attitude will take over and the business will suffer from that. In actuality, there ARE other pastry shops that are excellent