There is never a trip I can’t turn into an excuse to buy food. Istanbul, London, Barcelona. You name the city, and I will find a place to buy food within hours of landing.
The same goes for places that are nearer to hand, and that I visit often. A weekend up in Umbria is always an excuse to stop in Orte and stock up. Likewise Bari, where I always end up coming back not only with pasta and pastries, but also produce.
But this last trip to Bari I had the great pleasure of discovering a completely new source of wonderful foods I didn’t really need to buy, but did anyway.
Just in case. You know. I might never make it to Bari again and then where would I be? Short one jar of preserved baby artichokes, that’s where.
The store in question is U Castagnar. This means chestnut vendor in Barese, but since it was May, and definitely not the right season, there was not a chestnut in sight. But there was plenty of other things I needed wanted.
Taralli in every shape or size. Also dried fave – both shelled and un-shelled. I bought a huge bunch of dried oregano. Even though it was from the previous season, it still perfumed our car all the way home to Rome.
The one thing I resisted were the small jars of ricotta forte. This very aged cheese is definitely a taste I have not acquired. But many have and since it’s not at all easy to find, good to know, right?
And those baby artichokes? I came away with four huge jars. Made by ‘Zia Teresa’ they were definitely artiginale and a very good price.
And really. Who knows if they would still have them the next time I was in town. Right? Better to stock up, and be prepared for any future artichoke shortages.
U Castagnar
Bari Via Filioli 40
080.524.9342
320.337.3872
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What does ricotta forte taste like?
I guess it depends on who you ask. I think it tastes like super strong feet that have been slightly bathed in a vat of ammonia. But obviously there are others who think differently…….
I love the sign for the artichokes from zia Teresa!
Ah, the good old times captured in a bottle! You are now deeply entrenched in artichoke lore.
I looked at displays, and my heart leaped!
Condiments are my favorite thing to bring home from traveling—they last awhile. That oregano looks amazing, though, and the artichokes, of course. I’d definitely make room for a jar of those.
I swear I could smell the wonderful scents of that store through the pictures!