I have to admit, that I was all set to be underwhelmed by the Eataly opening in Rome. I’d been to the original in Torino, and while it was nice and all, it just didn’t seem like a place I would go to that often.
And the one in New York left me completely cold. I guess it was the fact that once in New York the last thing I have on my mind is anything Italian. That and the humongous crowds just made me think “so what?”
Which left me totally unprepared for my complete and utter love for the Eataly in Rome. In a country where there is much beauty, but little function, Eataly in Rome has created something that is not only drop dead gorgeous, but…it works!
And if you think those two little words don’t mean a lot, you’re wrong. Here in Italy we put up with a lot of dysfunction – gladly – in the pursuit of beauty. But the people behind Eataly (and I’m talking Oscar Farinetti & Co. here) have managed to put together a team to produce something that is complicated, sleek, well designed and utterly functional.
And on top of that? It’s all about the food folks, and the food is good.
Rather than blab away here, in print, I’ve put together a little video. I kind of went overboard with the picture taking, so it seemed best to string them together in a sort of commentated slideshow. For now, I’ve got my lens and mike pointed mainly at the design. Stay tuned for more on the edible as I make my way through the various restaurants over the next month or so. 
Eataly
Piazzale Xll Ottobre 1492
Open Daily 10-Midnight
For opening hours of specific restaurants see this page
Elizabeth’s Newsletter from Italy
Sign up here for my newsletter! It’s full of fun information, travel tips, links to what I’m reading and doing, advance notice of my culinary tours, and reading events. Premium subscribers also have access to my new podcast, online events, and discounts and offers for some of my favorite tableware.
My boss went last weekend and she wasn’t impressed too much: too many people for her taste and she said that attempting to eat at any of the places would be like eating in the middle of a shopping centre (which Eataly is) at rush hour.
I told her she might have picked the worst weekend to go there.
I love that, considering your background, you have chosen to focus on the design aspect of the place. I for myself didn’t like much of it, maybe except for the “italia” restaurant – the other eating spaces remind me of the IKEA cafeteria (or other big canteen like eating situation). But that is just me. And definitely kudos to them for giving life to a space that was just becoming a ruin. Am going tonight, when it is bound to be very empty (the game!), and will check out the food – esp excited about the fritti and the wines.
I loved the design, and I thought it couldn’t be further from Ikea. Even the choice of chairs – all from Kartell – was inspired. Good idea to go tonight, it will be completely empty!
I was the one who made the original post on Chowhound about Eataly – I certainly didn’t expect the firestorm the erupted! I’m so glad I saw your video – you’re right – everyone looks happy to be working there (I know I’d be happy to work there!). We’ll be there in a couple of weeks and that most certainly will be one of our day trips. Do you think a half a day allows us enough time to snack and browse?
You never know what’s going to set things off over at Chowhound! Yes, a half day is fine. And if you want to go back, you always can.
Totally going here! Not wild about the one in NY either. It’s way too crowded and I’d much rather shop for Italian things in Italy 🙂
The food and wine is really nice in the NY location, but I would expect the food in Rome to be much more than “nice”.
The video convinced me to allow two days for EATALY……even that isn’t enough time to taste all thats offered! The idea of revolving chefs mean it’s never going to get “old”. Can’t wait for September! Love the building.
Debra
As if I didn’t have a million other reasons to go back to Rome here is reason 1 million & 1! 😉
thanks Elizabeth! that is an awesome piece on EATALY Marcy was right.now 1 MORE reason to go the Roma.. its like your 1 stop shopping and more! I can see why some would compare to IKEA but ohhh sooo much better!! Bueno!!
How do I wish I was there…right now…let me count the ways…
I might have to wait until I get back from St. Martin to go. I want to give Eataly Rome my full attention. I’ve only been to the one in Bologna. I wrote about it and was salty that one was opening in NYC and not Rome. Now poof, there’s one in Rome.
So far my Italian friends are loving it. Especially the couples who work and have children. It’s open late and there’s parking.
LOVE Arc Linea, and Eataly looks wonderful. Thanks for the report.
Kim
I must say that I love Eataly NYC. Is it like shopping in Rome or Florence or Venice? No. It is too crowded? Yes. When you work across the street from this astonishing carnival of Italian food as I do, however, and can walk home with a pound of beautiful tagliatelli, a piece of good cheese, some prosciutto and a nice bottle of wine, it can soften a harsh NY day into something, possibly, improbably Roman… If you have access, as I do, to the Union Square Greenmarket, the experience is even heightened further. I can understand your reluctance, though, Elizabeth to spend a lot of time there when you’re in NYC. Like you say “Why bother?” It would be like me thinking about eating Mexican food in Italy. What’s the point? Still, when you don’t have a trip planned to Italy, it’s a wonderful thing to have at your doorstep…
I can definitely see the appeal of the one in NYC! It’s just that for me – being the italiana that I’ve become – it’s just not what I want to do in the States.
We just went here for lunch and the place is amazing in every way – food, design and service. Can’t wait to go back!
I am just hoping for one in Los Angeles.
I’m sure it will come eventually!
It has been interesting reading all the many descriptions and accounts of peoples experiences at Eataly Roma. Since it is not in my neck of the woods, I won’t be going out of my way to visit based on what I have read. It seems that it resembles a gourmet food court. I think I will stick with the convent down the road from me that produces wine and beer, veggies, fruit and cheese where I can really get to know the people who produced it. But I suppose this is a great place for people on the run, with families etc.
I think that if you are in the business of telling people about food in Rome (which you are) then you pretty much have to go visit at least once. At least so you can have an opinion. Especially since you are describing it as a gourmet food court (which it’s not). It would sort of be similar to being a tour guide and never having visited St. Peters. Even if you don’t give tours of St. Peters, you have to know your field.
Of course I agree, I need to go once, but I am saying, based on photos and articles, since I live so far out of the city-close to Velletri-I am not going to go out of my way to come down and drive in Roman traffic since I already have such wonderful food available by farmers and producers here. From what I have read and seen so far, I think I will wait. Like Hande, to me, based on photos and articles it looks/seems like Ikea or a food court. Of course I don’t have a background in design. I like more rustic charm which is why I live in a rustic little house in the country. Also, just to note, my business is wine, not food. I am in the business of educating people about the wines of Italy. I lead tastings in Rome and I teach a class called Wines of Italy. I am not in the business of telling people about food in Rome-I’ll leave that to the experts. From my perspective, based on this blog and others, I don’t think I will be coming down all the way from Velletri to visit Eataly, at least not until the end of summer. This is not to say you don’t have a convincing argument in favor. I am just thinking in terms of how far it would be for me to travel, first, and if it seems like a place that I would enjoy. If I happen to be nearby or and the end of a tour at Ostia Antica I will gladly visit. Also I am not describing it, I am saying that based on the photos I have seen and the articles I have read, that is what it reminds me of. Sorry if I wasn’t clear. I do hope, however, that the promotion of Italian artisan foods is achieved and that more people will get to know the gastronomic wonders that Italy has to offer. Also, I know plenty of guides who have never seen the inside of St. Peter’s! No joke!
it was an experience. Loved the fritti restaurant. No tourists. Only locals
Just went today, after visiting Centrale Montemartini. I have to say, coming from the US, pretty undrwhelming. We ate at the pasta bar and no one had a smile on their face today. And the cashier kept coughing and blowing his nose (and jumping in to help the cooks) and one of the cooks dropped food on the floor, picked it up and kept preparing it! Hopefully the wine at lunch will have a medicinal affect!