Since we have a home in Umbria, I get a lot of questions from people asking about restaurants in the area. The problem is, we don’t go out much once we settle in. In the winter we have the fire going, and in the summer there’s the pool. Just hard to get up the energy to get in the car and head out.
But last weekend Domenico and I decided to stay for one extra night. We usually head back on Sundays, but last Sunday – what with the big game and all – we decided we just couldn’t face the possible chaos in Rome if Italy won the European cup. (we needn’t have worried)
Since we were half in a city mind set already though, we actually felt like heading into the Umbrian version of civilization. That would be Todi, which is about a 10 minute drive from our house.
And rather than go to the handful of restaurants we already know and love (Pizzeria Cavour, Cibocchi, La Mulinella) we were extremely adventurous and decided to try something new.
We’d been wanting to try Enoteca Oberdan ever since it opened about 6 years ago. The problem was, with only a handful of tables, we could never manage to get a reservation with our last minute planning. But on that Sunday, while Spain and Italy were kicking off, we were the only people in the country not glued to their tellies.
As you can see from the photos, the place couldn’t be cuter. Tucked into the ground floor of a building right next to Giardino Oberdan, the place feels just rustic enough. The enoteca part of the equation comes through loud and strong not only in the wine list, but in the stacks of wine boxes filling almost every spare inch.
We headed to the back room, which has a magnificent view out over the Tiber valley, as well as the garden next door. Where, by the way, the tables will migrate to starting this week.
We snacked on a basket of warm torta al testo while we looked at the wine menu. Not huge, but lots of fun things to choose from, especially northern whites which are pretty rare in this part of the world.
Domenico started out with a yummy dish of Mezzi Paccheri al Pesto di Olive. A new twist was the addition of bread crumbs, which added a nice crunch.
I ordered the Tortino di Zucchini con Scamorza Affumicata e Pomodoro. I don’t know what I was expecting, but the mini pink le crueset pot was almost too cute to dig into. It was filled with layers of zucchini and tomatoes, barely held together with the smoked cheese. Enough vegetables to make me feel virtuous, but also enough gooey cheese to satisfy.
Domenico can never resist bacala on the menu, and the fried filets that arrived next were simple and perfect.
But it’s the carpaccio di Manzo Marinato al Barolo that I keep thinking of. No, it’s not local and Umbrian. But after 20 years spent in this part of the world, I kind of like something that’s a bit more sophisticated than grilled pork. The beef in this case comes straight from Piedmonte, and is actually marinated by the producers. It was beefy, tender and just the right amount of spices. Draped over a bed of fresh salad greens, it was exactly what I was craving on a hot summer night.
An after dinner stroll through town and that was our big night in the city. We really should get out more often.
UPDATE AUGUST 2013: Unfortunately we had a truly horrible experience here the other night. I don’t like to disparage places based on just one bad night, but this was so bad that we won’t be going back here.
We arrived at 8pm and by 10pm we still had not received out main courses. Since we had ordered only antipasti first (which were all very small) we were starving. Emma and I had each ordered the Carpaccio. When it finally arrived (15 minutes AFTER the others had recieved their second course) we were told that they only had enough for one portion, so they had to split it between us. Did we want to order a frittata instead? Not only did we not want a frittata, but the beef itself was obviously the very end of the marinated beef, since it was dry and basically had been ‘cooked’ in the marinade. Not only was there no apology from the chef/owner for the problem, there was no discount or other acknowledgement that anything out of the ordinary had happened. In addition, all of the portions were extremely meager for the prices that were charged.
We won’t be going back.
Enoteca Oberdan
Via Augusto Ciuffelli 22
075.894.5409
You can park in the parking lot below town and take the funicular up. You exit right in the Giardino Oberdan, and the Enoteca is the first place on your left as you walk into town.
Lost In Cheeseland
Awesome recommendation, filing for my next Italy trip!
Peter Jonker
Inspiring blogpost, thanks! I stayed in Todi for 2 weeks last year, and 2 weeks this year, learning Italian at the “La Lingua La Vita” school. I went to this little treasure-enoteca quite a few times, reservations in May were not necessary. It’s a great atmosphere, the food is delicious, friendly service and great wine.
If it’s full, just walk 50 metres in direction city centre, and on your right hand is “Antica Hosteria De la Valle”, which has a Scottish chef, who is rightfully famous in Todi. Excellent food, also great atmosphere. Similar prices (if I recall correctly).
Elizabeth Minchilli
Yes, Osteria della Valle is another one of my favorites. But with even less tables than Enoteca Oberdan, it also takes some advance planning!
Elisa Pichiotti
You’re right, it’s a very nice place with heavenly dishes! And now tables are outside at Giardini Oberdan!
APONOVICH & JOHANSSON
Elizabeth,
Oh! How we wish we were there. We miss Italy,and every time we see all the glorious places you get to eat at, or to dream of Campari & Soda in Rome ( instead of our porch in NH), or a great bowl of pasta in a trattoria in Umbria…..well it is almost more than we can bear. For now, at least, we will continue to savour Italy through your words and photos. Thanks for sharing…….Cant’ wait to return.
Ciao,
James and Elizabeth
Elizabeth Minchilli
Hope you can return soon too!
Shut Up & Cook
My stomach is literally growling as I sit at my desk and wish I was there right now. Lady…you live a charmed life…I am JEALOUS!
Linda T.
We wandered into this spot a few years back and had the most amazing zucchini blossoms stuffed with ricotta. I have been trying to recreate them ever since. Thank you for bringing back the memories.
Elizabeth Minchilli
Here’s a great zucchini flower with ricotta recipe from Melissa Clark: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/11/dining/enjoying-zucchini-blossoms-without-cooking-a-good-appetite.html?_r=1&ref=dining
Linda T.
I’ll check it out. Thanks for the info.
Lost in Provence
The thought of eating such yumminess on such a terrasse with such a view=heaven. Merci comme d’hab Elizabeth for sharing the best of your world with us!
Giacomo da Todi
Thanks, Elizabeth. I have eaten a few times at the Enoteca and have always found it as you describe. I live on the other side of Todi in Grutti. There is a place that you should try that is similar to Oberdan. It’s called by the curious name “Hosteria 4 Piedi & 8.5 Pollici”. You can find it on TripAdvisor in the listings for Giano dell’ Umbria, even though it is in the town of bastardo behind the EMI. Creative dishes, eclectic interior, and charming hostess (chef and owner, Laura) who gives her personasl attention to every detail. It’s a welcome oasis in that part of the Todi/Bevagna/Montefalco/Foligno/Spoleto “diamond”.
Elizabeth Minchilli
Sounds delicious, and can’t wait to try it. Thanks for the recommendation.