Even though I make it up to Torino at least once every two years, I never get to do and see as much as I’d like. The thing is, I head north to visit to the Salone del Gusto. Which means that I spend almost all of my time out at the Lingotto fair grounds, tasting my way through as many of the 1000 stands, exhibitors, workshops and food producers as possible.
It’s great. I love it. Don’t get me wrong.
But some of my favorite things about Torino often remain off my grid. At the end of the day I never have time to hang out in the center of town.
Which is why I went up a couple of days early this year, to pack in as much chocolate, plin, Baroque churches and museums as possible.
At the top of my list? Bicerin. On a rainy, cold afternoon, Sophie and I happily made our way to what has got to be the coziest bar not only in Italy, but in Europe.
Two years ago I had to make do with sating my bicerin craving at the Salone. This year I made sure I got the real thing, in its birthplace. Bicerin, a pocket-sized coffee shop that first opened its doors in the 18th century, hasn’t been touched since the 19th century. Polished wood paneling covers the walls, marble cafe tables stand in front of red velvet banquets, and delicious cakes and pastries perch on pedestals in a glass fronted cabinet.
There is never a question about what to order. Just look at any of handful of marble tables and you will see each and every one is topped by a goblet containing the shop’s speciality and namesake: Bicerin.
This wonderful concoction, which has become the signature drink of the entire city, was actually created here in this tiny bar. The drink is a mixture of hot chocolate and espresso, topped with a thick layer fresh cream. Although you can get it in other places, the exact recipe for this one remains a secret. The precise mixture and proportions of bitter chocolate and strong coffee merge perfectly and uniquely. The cream, which is barely whipped to thicken, hovers on top, meant to be stirred in a bit at a time.
Sophie and I lingered over our treats, sipping and stirring and watching the Torinese come and go and do the same for about 45 minutes. We finally gathered up our umbrellas and headed out the door, across the rain-slicked piazza to visit the jewel-like Church of the Consolata.
My only regret? That we didn’t also get the Zabione. Made to order with Marsala and fresh eggs and cream, it’s served with home made lady fingers.
But then again, I know I’ll be going back in two years. Bicerin will still be there. And so will I.
Bicerin
Piazza della Consolata 5
8:30 – 7:30pm
Closed Wednesday.
gillian
I should have eaten something before reading this post!
Renuka
nice experience…nice pictures, too!
http://renuka-mytraveldiary.blogspot.in
AdriBarr
One of my favorite indulgences. Now I must have one.
Lost in Provence
I think that it is a really, really good thing that I don’t live in Torino…
bagnidilucca
I love this place too. I have been to the last 3 Salone del Gusto, but missed it this year…..next time.
Bonni
Wish I had known about this before I visited Turin last fall. Will certainly not forget it on my next visit!
bonni
Jennifer Tarbox
Great photos, I wish I could snap my fingers and be there! I’ll definitely have to plan a trip to Torino in the near future.
http://jtarboxtinybites.wordpress.com/
Sojo
oh my goodness! i can’t take it. this post makes me want to go to torino now!!!! great pictures and for the record, i am salivating!
alyce oreilly
We have been to Bicerin many times. I love it. The first time we went I had it all. Bicerin and zabione. I had no regrets !