Da Ruggero is one of those places I had heard about for years, but somehow never made it to. So many people told me it was one of their favorite Florentine restaurants, but since it was located a tiny bit outside of the center, I’d just never made the effort.
But recently Domenico had to visit the amazing kitchen supply store Barthel on Via degli Serragli, so I decided it was the perfect excuse to go that extra ten minute walk through the Porta Romana and out the via Senese.
Da Ruggero is the type of completely anonymous places that you’d drive right by unless you were looking for it. And I say drive, since the Via Senese is the road most people use to get out of town in the direction of – yes you’ve guessed it – Siena.
The two small and cozy rooms are hung with attractively kitschy paintings, and both the setting and the owners are welcoming and inviting. The menu is 100% Tuscan, with excellent zuppe starting things out. Pappa al pomodoro and ribolita are always on the menu. The day we went they were serving an incredible farinata con cavolo nero: a gruel like soup made from polenta flour and kale. Drizzled with a bit of intensely green olio nuovo, it was heaven. Domenico’s friend Paolo, who came with us to lunch, ordered the pappardelle alla lepre, big fat homemade noodles made with hare ragu.
Although they have excellent roast and grilled meats, we all went for the bollito misto, a mix of boiled meats, brought to the table just as it should be: in a deep dish filled with broth to keep the meat warm. And of course it came with a big bowl of perfect salsa verde, which is pretty much my favorite condiment in the world . Which is kind of why I also ordered a side dish of white beans (on top of which I put a big dollop of salsa verde).
Dessert was ‘light’, since we just had fruit. Apples baked till soft inside, with a crispy sugary topping.
I’m heading up to Florence this weekend, for Taste, a fair full of all sorts of new and exciting and fancy foodie finds. But of course the only thing I can think of is whether or not Ruggero’s will have that farinata on the menu this time of year.
Da Ruggero
Via Senese 89, Florence
+39.055.220.542
Thurs-Mon, Lunch & Dinner
For more about dining in Florence, download my app, Eat Italy, available on iTunes.
LKJ
We just returned from Rome the night before last. Enjoyed your Eat Italy app. We tried Al 59 on via Angelo Brunetti 59. Had a fabulous meal. The standout was a fennel salad with orange sections. Anyway you know the recipe?
Elizabeth Minchilli
Happy to hear you had good luck with Eat Italy! Here is a fennel and orange salad recipe:
http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2010/12/fun-with-fennel.html
Anonymous
Hi, Elizabeth. Anna from San Francisco here. I am so glad you had a chance to eat at Da Ruggero. I had the great good fortune of eating at this trattoria in late August. My family was with me, and we ordered minestone, every pasta on the menu, the bistecca alla Fiorentina, and a few more dishes that I can’t recall. It was a late night meal, and way too much food, but it was one of the best I have ever had. I will be back in Florence in a few weeks, and this is tops on my list to revisit. Thanks!
Lost in Provence
Elizabeth, my trip to Florence in June was just cancelled. Reading this makes me all the more determined to make it happen one moment or another…
Angelina
Browsing this makes my stomach crave for pasta and more. Da Ruggero looks tastier than I thought. Wish to get a taste of their pasta and bistecca alla Fiorentina very soon !
Arlene Gibbs Decor
Domenico told me I must visit Barthel. Now I know where to eat!