There’s a reason that I lead food tours in certain neighborhoods in Rome, and not others. Even though Campo de’ Fiori and the Jewish Ghetto have changed much over the last decade, with truly disturbing inroads being made by vendors selling everything from fast french fries to knock off purses, it still manages to retain its character through a half dozen vegetable stands in the market and other food stores and restaurants that have been there for generations. My own neighborhood of Monti has seen change too, but the new arrivals have embraced the traditions and ingredients of Rome and created new realities that are perhaps the next chapter in Rome’s culinary history. Testaccio, at least for now, clings on the most strongly to a fast changing way of life, next to the crumbling ruins of the ex-slaughterhouse the new market still feeds a neighborhood that is mostly made up of working class Romans and tourists are few and far between. Sophie leads her tours through the ancient alleyways of Trastevere, where some of the oldest food vendors in town still sell their wares.
There are other neighborhoods, though, where I barely even go any more, much less lead food tours through. The area around Piazza di Spagna is one of those. Jam packed with so many tourists you can barely make it down the streets that run perpendicular to the major shopping axis of Via del Corso, the area is the equivalent of Rome’s Rodeo drive. Via Frattina, Condotti and Borgognona are lined with names like Gucci, Prada and Bulgari. I can understand why visitors might want to window shop (or really shop) while visiting the Spanish Steps, but as far as being a foodie destination? Not so much.
Prohibitively high commercial rents have made it just about impossible for stores in the neighborhood to sell anything that doesn’t have a 1000% mark up that helps pay the bills. High heels and diamonds do this just fine. Pasta and pecorino, not so much. Do you remember a few years ago the article in the Guardian that cited the 54 Euro ice cream cone? That would be right in the heart of this area.
All this said, there are still a few places that surprisingly have managed to survive. One of those is the Pastificio on Via della Croce. This bare bones store not only retains its original space and vintage sign (love that!) but also somehow still manages to pay the rent by selling hand made pasta.
If you do happen to be in this neighborhood and pass by, and are wondering why there is a long line stretching down the block twice a day at this simple shop you can finally begin to understand how they are making ends meet. Pastificio not only makes pasta to take home and cook, every day at lunch and dinner time they make up big bowls of steaming hot pasta to eat or take away. For the very low price of 4 Euros you get (as the sign says) 1 plate of pasta, 1 fork, 1 napkin, 1 plastic cup, water and, only for those who deserve it, a drop of wine.
Not bad, huh?
On a recent day I stopped by and they were dishing up heaping portions of freshly made fettucine with funghi porcini and potato gnocchi with a tomato sausage sauce. Every day two different pastas.
So popular has this place become that they’ve now done away with the low counters they used to have ringing the shop, with small stools. These days you get in line, pay up, grab your plate and take it to the street. Yes, it’s a bit awkward balancing plastic plate and cup (especially if you are also dealing with a slippery sausage) but it’s worth the acrobatics. These days, there’s not many places you can get a plate of well made pasta for 4 euros. And the line? It moves very fast and there always seems to be pasta for everyone.
Even though I’m not planning on leading any food tours in this neighborhood any time soon, it’s good to know there are still some authentic food artisans there. And if heading to this spot for a plate of pasta a few times a month helps support their endeavor, well, I’m willing to do my bit. And you should too.
Pastificio
Via della Croce 8, Roma
+39.06679 3102
For more information on dining in Rome and Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Milan, Rome, Florence and Venice (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad
Elizabeth very surprised that you mentioned such a place, the worse place in Rome, Their pasta is terrible, cheap, (not hand made), very dubious olive oil, & cooked by poor immigrants (hope they are paid correctly) after one taste, threw the whole plate in the bin & very difficult to get rid of the taste of their …olive oil ??? definitly a tourist trap. Your tips & advise on food etc. have been fantastic & much appreciated by me and my Italian friends , don’t disappoint us !
Angelita, I’m so sorry to hear you don’t like this place. Everyone has their own opinions, which is what makes things interesting. But, FYI, the pasta is definitely made on the premises ( I watched them make it) at least the day I was there. They made potato gnocchi as well as fettucine. And while there were certainly many tourists there were just as many locals from the surrounding shops.
In agreement with you Elizabeth , that naturally everyone has their own opinions & taste which certainly makes things interesting to discuss……I suppose it is better than a Big Mac or maybe not ? Boh !
I ate there in a November, thanks to your app. Great value food on the go
Wow! This place sounds (and looks) really amazing! I can’t believe there such a cheap and great eating place in that neighborhood. Just as you said, it’s a neighborhood I usually avoid, unless I’m going there with first time tourists in Rome, so they can (window) shop. Absolutely gotta try this. Those gnocchis are looking right back at me 😀
Love, love, love this place!
A few months ago, wife and I stood in line for a few minutes until we got inside. Watching people stagger out with loaded paper plates encouraged us to abandon the effort and repair to the old bar across the street. Smart move.
So you didn’t try the pasta?
Congratulations on your Saveur Blog Award!
It is well deserved!!
Grazie!
Elizabeth, Thank you for this post, very much on target and I intend to circulate it.
My husband and I will be in Rome for 5 days next month. This is exactly the kind of place we look for whenever we travel! We’ll definitely download your app before we leave. We’re staying at the Moses Fountain Hotel – a repeat visit from 2 years ago. Anything new in that area we should check out?
I love Dagnino, a Sicilian Bar for both pastries and lunch. Weird and wonderful 1970’s setting. The food is all tavola calda, but right near your hotel
Thanks for the tip! I just added it to our list.
Elizabeth – One of my favorite restaurants in the Piazza di Spaga area is Nino’s on Via Borgognona. I’ve eaten there since the late 80s. I die for their Mont Blanc dessert.
I’ve not been since 2008, has Nino’s gone out of fashion?
Ron
Great minds! I’m writing up Nino’s next week. Yes,still great. And very much the same,including Monti Bianco dessert.
Can’t wait to read it! We went to Nino’s during our last visit and loved it. We didn’t have reservations anywhere, but decided to dress up for a night out and see what happened. We ended up at Nino’s and, much to the chagrin of several groups of tourists in shorts and t-shirt who were waiting outside hoping for a table, we were seated immediately and enjoyed an amazing meal with lovely service.
haha! Love that story. Especially because when you reserve, they specifically tell you (especially if you have an American accent) no shorts.I still can’t imagine going out to dinner in shorts.
Thanks. Look forward to your write-up.
I’m off to Venice shortly for the Biennale, but won’t be visiting Rome on this trip.
I’ll be digging my fork into the delights of Al Covo, Alle Testeri, Antiche Carampane, Cip’s Club, and Grand Canal @ the Hotel Monaco.
I love La Rampa near the Biennale for lunch. Very simple, authentic.
Thanks for the La Rampa suggestion.
The only reasons we would go to the area this time would be to see how the damage on the fountain is coming along. and to go to Nino on Borgognona. I will never forget the first time we were in that area…both of us could hardly wait to get the hell out of there…sorry…don’t care about $$$ fashion stores or window shopping on Via Condotti…so, Elizabeth I completely concur with your comments on the area!
Hi Elizabeth,
Sorry for this comment. A lot of Americans are used to eat in Italian restaurants in America , and when they come to Italy they don’t like the REAL Italian food. I Had experiences with American friends here in Italy, coming to visit us, which complained about how in America there’s more sauce on this and that, the olive oil tastes different, and so on…
Even the pizza (Roman style) is not what they expect !
My son, who lives in San Diego ( California), had a hard time to get used to ” Italian ” restaurants in America, even some expensive ones !
Life is not simple !
The best food in the world is ITALIAN ! We still eat so much seasonal vegetables and cook at home !
xo
Eliane
All true!
We liked this place. It’s a great quick cheap lunch, you can’t compare it with a sit down meal. On the day we went in December it was all local office workers. I tend to avoid this area too, but we were there to visit the Fondazione Giorgio de Chirico which is very much worth visiting just at the bottom of the Spanish Steps.
For anyone who is interested I blogged about the visit here,
http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2014/02/chiroco-house-museum-rome.html
Elizabeth – just to say your app was invaluable, many thanks.
I’ve never been to the the Fondazione Giorgio de Chirico, thanks for providing the info.