I’m not big on cooking in Rome once the heat hits even in the best of times. It’s high season in terms of tours, so after a long day in the sun, the last thing I feel like doing is getting behind a hotter stove. But this year? It’s about 100 times worse.
We are doing work on our apartment. Big work. Like close your eyes and pray it’s over fast kind of work. I know that they say doing work on your house while you are living in it is like child birth. The pain is intense, but once it’s over the result is worth it. And, eventually, the memory of the pain you went through fades. I know this is true, since we’ve already been through it at least twice. Still, that doesn’t make the current pain any easier to take.
So the thought of eating – or much less cooking – in our dusty and dark apartment is just too much to bear. For dinner these days we have either been going out (thank god my neighborhood is full of spots like this, this, this and this) or else relying on the kindness of strangers. Luckily my neighborhood is also full of kind strangers. Well, not really stranger. Good friends actually. Who have taken pity on us by inviting us in at dinner time.
This past Saturday Domenico and I were on our way to Fatamorgana, when one good friend saw us walking by and called out to us from her window. I guess we were looking especially forlorn since right then and there she invited us to dinner.
“Want to come over tonight and have some boiled fish?” Eugenia yelled down to us. “Yes!” we both cried, knowing full well that a) saying she was cooking boiled fish for dinner was probably just Eugenia’s dry sense of humor or b) even if it was boiled fish, it was going to be fabulous boiled fish, since Eugenia is a fantastic cook.
And in fact, that night when we showed up there actually was fish (line caught sea bass, broiled not boiled) as well as this totally amazing and beautiful soup.
Call Okroshka, it is a Russian yogurt-based cold soup. Yogurt gets mixed with chopped radishes, hard boiled eggs, cucumbers, scallions and boiled potatoes. It sounds simple (and it is) but somehow the combination of tangy and salty, smooth and crunchy makes it THE perfect summer food.
Both Eugenia and her husband Vladimir are some of the most design focussed people I know, so of course the soup was served in the perfect bowls, with the perfect utensils and in the perfect apartment. And the apartment? It was white, and clean and there was not a worker to be found.
I hope we get invited back again soon.
okroshka {cold russian soup}
Prep
Total
Yield 4
Eugenia made her version of Okroshka with yogurt. The original version is often made with Kvass, a type of fermented, slightly fizzy soft drink made from fermented bread. Which, of course, would make for a completely different kind of soup. I just wanted to throw this out there, in case anyone wanted to try it that way.
Ingredients
- 1 boiled potato, cut into cubes
- 3 hard boiled eggs, chopped
- 3 cucumbers, but in small cubes, seeds removed
- 1 bunch radishes, thinly sliced
- 1 small bunch scallions, thinly sliced
- 500 gr yogurt or kefir
- dill, coriander, parsley or chives, chopped
- juice of 1 lemon
- sparkling water to taste.
- Georgian salt to garnish
Instructions
- Place the yogurt into a large serving bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir. Add sparkling water to thin out to desired consistency. Serve well chilled or else you can add ice cubes.
- Let guests add Georgian Salt (which I am currently addicted to thanks to the pack that Alice brought back to me) at the table.
Heather in Arles
I am so grateful for this recipe right now I can’t even tell you. They say it is going to be 45°C on Saturday in the sun and the temps are hovering not so far from that for the next ten days…This looks perfect!
Elizabeth
I know! The last thing Domenico said to me last night was “Do you know how hot it’s getting in France?” (He looks at weather around the world before going to sleep). Stay cool!
Cynthia Hill
Oh my heavens, that soup looks fantastic….I love crisp, chilled summer soups.The perfect summer
dinner! Was wondering if mint could substitute for coriander?
Waiting the arrival of “Italian Rustic”, scheduled to arrive tomorrow!
Ciao bella.
Elizabeth
Absolutely you can use mint. In fact, Eugenia told me that any leafy herb could be used. Dill is traditional in Russia, but mint sounds fantastic.
Harriette
I just read your book before our trip to Italy and especially Rome In October. You have made me even more excited for my trip that I thought I could be. Thank you.
[email protected]
I have been thinking about making a soup like this, and now I have a recipe! Thanks Elizabeth! (and Eugenia!)
Phyllis@Oracibo
It’s so hot here too and this soup looks like I could just dive into it! My mother was Russian and whenever we went to visit relatives in the summer we had what they call “kvass” a cold cucumber soup. Never really knew what the heck was in it but so refreshing! The soup your friend made is a lot more colourful that just plain old cucumbers and dill! BTW…we are just finished up on our complete kitchen reno….so I feel your pain! Luckily, you have a built in “Project Manager”…the dust really does get tiresome and then after the reno is all done…there’s all that clean up! The good news is it gave us a great opportunity to purge!
Elizabeth
Thanks for the encoragement about the renovations. Yes, purging is a plus. Cleaning up? Not so much. 🙁
Michael
I made the okronosko soup tonight and it tasted like chalk. I followed the recipe with fresh chives and dill and used plain (not low fat) Greek yogurt and Pellegrino for the water. Could the yogurt have been the problem? It looked and sounded so yummy that I had to make it immediately. I never use yogurt so I don’t know what sort to buy. I love your blog and use the recipes often. Please help!!
Elizabeth
Hmmmm…..not sure! Ours definitely didn’t taste like chalk. But maybe using Greek yogurt was the problem? That is was too thick and not tart enough? Also, not sure how it tasted like chalk if you used lemon juice as well. But if you never use yogurt, maybe it is actually the taste of yogurt you are not used to? The soup should be pretty tart and tangy tasting, but in a yogurt kind of way. Also, did you chill it properly?
Michael
I did use lemon juice and zest. I’m going to try again but with low sodium chicken stock instead of Pellegrino and finish it with cream instead of yogurt. I let you know how it turns out.
Elizabeth
Well ok then. It sounds good, but will be a completely different recipe.
Anonymous
Instead of using yogurt use kefir or buttermilk. I’m Ukrainian and we make this soup all the time. Use sparkling water to mix, usually it’s half kefir/buttermilk, half water. You can add a little vinegar, which I always do.
Anonymous
I’m not very fond of Greek or any plain yogurt. Kefir or buttermilk sounds fantastic! A restaurant in my neighborhood uses Kefir and it’s delicious.
Anonymous
Hi,Do I just use natural yoghurt?
Elizabeth
If by natural you mean un-sweetened, yes. I usually buy my yogurt at the farmer’s market. Whole fat, unsweetened.
Anonymous
Hi!
Greek yoghurt is a big NO as a substitute, because it has that chalky taste and much thicker consistency. You should use a running liquidy yoghurt.
I just made okroshka and it was amazing.
A possible alternative is sour creme (very little) with lots of water.
Michelle Wright
Soup looks fantastic and will definitely give a try as it is also hot as blazes here now! But… that tureen! sigh…want one of those!
Elizabeth
She got the tureen at a flea market in Boston I think
Gio
This is perfect for us today. Thank you, as always your recipes never fail to delight us.
Elizabeth
How did the soup turn out?
Alegria Arce Hibbetts
Only because all your recipes have been a stunning success with my family, and I had all the ingredients at home except for the potato, I tried this recipe. My husband and I are grateful that I made your soup!!! Amazing! The two of us had the serving for four and left the rest of the meal for the following day. Thank you !!!!
Elizabeth
Glad to hear it turned out well, even with out the potato.
santafefran
I made this for dinner last night and may have added too much sparkling water which left it too soupy. Today I whirred the rest of it in my food processor to a not quite pureed consistency–so much better. Next time I will whirr it to start. Thanks, Elizabeth for this recipe.
Love your blog.
Elizabeth
It is supposed to be pretty liquidy. But the pureed version sounds interesting, kind of like a russian gazpacho?
santafefran
Russian gazpacho is a great way to describe it!
Elizabeth
It has been too hot here in Tucson to even think about cooking so I made your recipe today. I used Russian Kefir instead of yogurt and it was delicious! Thank you for rescuing from a hot kitchen! Looking forward to the “left overs” tomorrow!
Elizabeth
Kefir sounds perfect too, and is one of the traditional options. Glad it worked out!
Debbie
A Russian friend made this for me years ago. I love this soup. I could have it everyday.
Tanya
My Russian family makes something very similar, it’s amazing on a hot summer day. I crave it when the weather turns hot. The only thing my aunt’s do differently is they add a couple handfuls of oats and instead of yogurt we use sour cream.. dill for the herb.. it’s delicious!!
Anonymous
Thank you for the recipe. It reminds me of my varsity days in Ukraine and this simple, yet palate complex soup would just be a perfect fit for a hot summer day.