If I tell you that one of the biggest influences on the way I cook has been the original cookbooks by Marcella Hazan, I’m not really revealing anything earth shattering. Her books, Classic Italian Cooking and More Classic Italian Cooking taught a whole generation of us what it meant to cook Italian. Even though I had half grown up eating and cooking Italian food in Italy as a child, it was the paper back copies of these fundamental books, bought while I was studying in Florence, that served as the basis for my next 30 years in an Italian kitchen. Working my way though recipes like…well, I probably don’t even have to list the most famous recipes because we all know them by heart.
So you can imagine the complete shock, pleasure and fan girl screaming that went on when I received my first comment from Marcella on Facebook about 4 years ago. I had posted one of Marcella’s recipes on my blog, changing it a bit to suit my taste and the season, and not only did she read it, she approved of it and left me a sweet message.
Like much of Marcella’s writing, her Facebook presence was a collaborative effort. While Marcella was the whiz in the kitchen, it was her husband Victor who often helped translate – literally and figuratively – food into words. So a few months ago, when Victor reached out to me directly, saying he was coming to Rome, and could we meet for dinner, I was ecstatic.
But where to have dinner with someone who not only knew more than I did about Italian cuisine, who meant so much to my culinary life? Of all the restaurants in Rome, what restaurant should I suggest?
Something traditional, for sure. But also something that carried memories as well. And I remembered that Victor had mentioned having dined with Marcella, decades ago, at Nino’s.
My own personal history at this Tuscan restaurant in the center of Rome goes back a long way too. Located near the Spanish Steps it is a place that I always associate with my father since this was the place he always chose when we were in the neighborhood. While I can still pretty much recite the menu from memory, I actually hadn’t been there for years. So choosing it as a place to meet one of my culinary icons was a bit of a risk. Would it still be the same? Maybe it had turned touristy? What if they had redecorated? Would the menu still feature those dishes that I knew and loved, and that only Nino seemed to have?
Luckily, not a thing had changed. Not the wood paneled interiors, not the flask of beans boiling in the window, not even the waiter. Well, actually, the waiter, who I remember as being young and somewhat flirty is now grey haired and the senior man in the dining room (and they’ve hired a new and flirty younger waiter). But even though I know I’ve changed just as much in the years since I had been there, he greeted me warmly and handed us the very same menu I remembered so fondly.
I chose my dinner from memory: a sformatino di zucchini with a fresh tomato sauce is like the best and lightest zucchini souffle. Very 1960s in my mind, as was the vitello tonnato  I had for my main course. Victor was very excited by the fact that they had brains, which arrived fried perfectly – creamy on the inside and crisp on the outside. Domenico ordered the house speciality, the Zuppa Francovich, a hearty Tuscan bean soup served over a piece of toasted bread and named after an artist who used to come here.
Since it was kind of a special occasion, we all ordered dessert, which were similarly old fashioned. Victor dug into a eggy creme caramel while I followed my favorite waiter’s advice and ordered profiterole. Covered in fudgy chocolate sauce, I can’t remember the last time I completely gave over to something this rich and good.
As much as I loved catching up with an old restaurant that hadn’t changed one bit, the best part of the evening was getting to know Victor. I can’t say I’ve known him for years, but because of his voice through Marcella’s cookbooks I certainly felt as if I had. We talked about food of course, and Marcella. I caught him up on some of the newer places in town, while he spoke of past trips to Rome. Favorite recipes, old restaurants and new friends. And Nino’s turned out to be pretty much the perfect choice for all of this.
Nino
Via Borgognona 11
+39.06.6786752
Fmore information on dining in Rome and Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Milan, Rome, Florence and Venice (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad. And if you don’t have an iphone? There’s always my book, Eating Rome: Living the Good Life in the Eternal City
My first visit to Nino was in October, 2001 one month after the 9/11 attacks, as part of a 50th wedding anniversary trip my sisters and brother and I gave to my parents. I escorted them both to Italy for 10 days and we just stayed in Rome. Neither of them wanted to travel so we did day trips around the city and they had a glorious time. We went to Nino after a visit to St Peters where, as luck would have it, the Holy Father (then John Pau) was doing a homily in the square. We were able to get very close to him as he passed by one of the corrals in the Popemobile. It was a wonderful experience. We did not have reservations for lunch, but when the hostess heard my speaking to my parents upon our arrival, she asked where we were from. I told her that we were from New York City (Brooklyn in fact) and she hugged all of us, welcomed us to the restaurant, said how sorry she was and hoped that we had not lost any family or friends. That made me cry because I had lost several friends and was still trying to get over the shock of all of the funerals. I will never forget her graciousness, nor the kindness of the waiter we had and how warm everyone was to my parents when they realized we were in Rome for their golden anniversary. I make a point of visiting NINO for every trip and hope to go there in December when I am in Rome for Christmas. Thank you for reminding me of that wonderful memory. And by the way, I love EATING ROME. 🙂
Thank you so much for sharing this story here, which brought tears to my eyes. Nino’s is a special place and I’m glad to hear it holds a special place in your memory as well.
Perfetto!
I remember the beans in the window. Your account of a great meal and growing friendship inspires me to return…sooner rather than later. Thank you.
This too is one of our favorites in all of Rome. I just hope all your readers forget the name quickly.
How nice for you both!
A restaurant like Nino’s is what makes traveling to other cities and countries so special. It’s more than the food and the ambiance. It’s the thought and care that goes into every detail. Most of all, it the people who make us feel welcomed. I look forward to visiting Nino’s.
Brenda
My husband and I love Nini and have been going since the early 80’s.
But our very favorite is their carciofi alla Romana which we always have to begin and then I usually have a pasta with more cariofi.
A few years ago while renting for a month in the winter in Florence we took the train down for an overnight in Rome where we had 2 meals within 36 hours at Nino and we each managed to eat 5 carciofi within those 36 hous. I etimated that we walked about 11 hours too.
Your blog is fabulous!
I made your pasta with ricotta and asparagus last weekend for our guests at our country house in upstate NY. We all loved it.
I agree, their carciofi alla romana are the best! When they are in season it’s hard to find any bigger, and more tender, in Rome. And glad to hear the pasta with asparagus and ricotta turned out well. Asparagus season has just ended here.
Thanks, so much, Elisabeth. What a wonderful post on so many levels. Your reminiscences of going to Nino as a girl and how much it meant to you. And, of course, dining with Victor—I caught my breath when I saw his name in your post title. How fantastic to have an evening with him at a restaurant you both love. Of course, Marcella’s books were our building blocks into Italian cooking.Your photos are divine. Vicki and I have been to Rome so many times, she is now revising her novel set in Rome. But we have been living in Florence for almost ten months and haven’t been back yet! Without question, we’ll go to Nino when we return, and toast this wonderful post with thanks. Bob
Forgive my misspelling of your name in my post! –Bob
If you only knew how many ways there are to misspell my name.
Thanks so much! I’ll look forward to reading the novel (any restaurants included?)
Your pictures show so many tables, which evoke so many memories for me. I can place myself at any number of them.
Got a laugh when you stated they handed you the same menu. Must have been the one without the prices – lol.
I LOVE it when I still get a menu with out prices. Makes me feel so feminine. 😉
I love Nino’s. I will go back on my next trip to Rome.
How exciting the evening must have been for you! Sounds like an absolutely wonderful visit and so glad you enjoyed both Victor and Nino…I have Nino on our list for our upcoming visit…along with many of your other recommendations! It would be so nice to come away from Nino with wonderful memories of an incredible restaurant!
Dear Elizabeth, My daughter Elizabeth graduated from college in 2002 and George and I took her and her 2 older brothers to Paris and Rome to celebrate. We stayed at the D’Inghilterra and the concierge recommended Nino’s. We went for lunch the day we arrived and for at least 3 more lunches before we left! The atmosphere, the waiters, the food — who could ask for anything more. Ten years went by before we returned and the love affair continues. Thank you for the pictures — we enjoyed so much pointing out our tables! Thanks for the memories. Love, Kathy
It’s been so wonderful to hear that so many people have such fond memories of Nino’s. Thanks so much for sharing!
What a wonderful story to share. I know for many of us who love reading your wonderful blog, the Hazans’ have been the cornerstone of our learning Italian cooking. And in Rome, Nino’s has an especially important meaning for me. It is the first restaurant I had the courage as a very young woman to venture out and have both lunch and then dinner alone in a “grown up” restaurant and not feel out of place. I have visited it many times since both with friends and solo (and like you, love that it is a marvelous constant in our world of forever changes—time to visits again !)
I love hearing your own story of Nino. Everyone has such fond memories of this place.
I’ve downloaded your app but have not yet mastered it and need to get busy since I leave for Rome/Tuscany/Florence/Venice in a few weeks. This particular post interests me since this restaurant is close to where we will be staying and also because there is a Nino’s restaurant close to my apartment in New York City. Are they by any chance related or is it just a popular name for an Italian restaurant?
No relation! Nino is the nickname for many longer Italian names, so is very common. Have a great trip!
I don’t know why I happened to start reading about Marcella Hazan yesterday and since then I’ve been devouring everything I’ve found on the internet about her and Victor. I’m Italian and live in Italy but part of our family went to the States and live there but some traditions and culinary legacy are so part of our background that we think of us as a family. I love Marcella and Victor’s story and I want to get into her sentiment for cooking. Thank you for sharing with us and I loved the comments