In my mission to get out of the center of Venice and onto the lesser trafficked islands, there was one place I knew I wanted to revisit: Torcello.
Torcello is located in the upper reaches of the lagoon, just north of Mazzorbo and Burano. When the vaporetto lets you off, there is no choice: take the little canal side path through fields to finally arrive at the most perfect Romanesque church imaginable. There are a few houses and a couple of restaurants along the way, but for the most part it’s a natural paradise.
Evidently Giuseppe Cipriani thought so as well, since he opened his now famous Locanda Cipriani here. I’ve had lovely lunches in the garden but wanted to stop by this time around for what has got to be the most perfect way to get your daily serving of fruit that I know of: The Bellini.
Invented in the 1930’s by Giuseppe, the Bellini was originally served at his place in Venice, Harry’s Bar. Made of white peach puree and prosecco, the original drink was also tinged pink by the addition of a bit of raspberry or cherry juice. The name, Bellini, is said to have been inspired by a particular shade of pink on the robe of a saint in a painting by 15th-century artist Giovanni Bellini.
What most people don’t realize is that while seemingly simple (peaches + prosecco) a good Bellini is all about the quality of ingredients. I found out all about it when I stopped by the Locanda for a drink. (walking that path can make you thirsty)
Bonifacio, Giuseppe’s grandson, who now owns the Locanda, explained that only white peaches will do, and since they are so delicate and have such a short season, they prepare the puree and then preserve it, using that throughout the year when fresh white peaches are only a distant memory.
And the prosecco has to be the highest quality as well “Or else it will give you an immediate headache” warned Bonifacio as he opened up a bottle. “Even better? Champagne!” Well, of course. Champagne is always better
So once you’re got these two things down, the rest is easy. Just watch Bonifacio and you’ll see.
Locanda Cipriani
Torcello
+39.041.730.150
It’s easy to get to Torcello. If you’re feeling flush, a water taxi will take you right to the door. But it’s easy to catch the vaporetto from either Ponte della Paglia (near St. Mark’s) or Fondamente Nove. Stop by Burano on your way back.
For more information on dining in Venice and Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Venice, Milan, Rome. Florence and Umbria (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad.
Angela De Marco Manzi
Elizabeth, I made the lemon bruschetta from your post last week about the dinner on the boat. I used Italian bread toast that I buy from a great butcher in my neighborhood. it was amazing. It will be a staple for the rest of the summer. Thanks very much for the recipe.
Elizabeth
So happy to hear it! I can’t wait to get up to our house in the country and start making it too!
Brunie
Beautiful@! Magical! You can’t top this…..When I get to Venice, A MUST VISIT.
iN THE MEANtime, I will be making bellinis. Thank you for an engaging and
magical post….
Brunie,
Phyllis@Oracibo
aah…here’s to the good life! Salute!
Catherine
Bellissima! Grazie, Elizabeth.
Kathleen Austin
Hi Elizabeth, I haven’t been to Venice since the magical summer of 1965 and your recent posts are drawing me back. This post has made it impossible to resist — I will have a bellini at Locanda Cipriani in Torcello soon, very soon! Mille grazie. xox
Elizabeth
It really is magical, and you have to go back.
Susan
Such an amazing place on a quaint island – such fond memories from my many visits. Thanky ou for sharing.
Werner Darveau
A memorable return visit after 20 years. We were charmed once again by the Locanda Cipriani when we enjoyed a long afternoon pranzo in the garden.
Diana M Eden
You brought back memories (recent) of a divine lunch my f friends and I had recently here. We were all dying to know what was in the light, slightly salty, salad dressing that went over the insalata mista we had. Any chance you have the recipe?
Elizabeth
So sorry, but I have no idea. Each restaurant makes its own dressing. It’s usually wine vinegar and olive oil, but so much depends on which types.