If there is one person who needs more ceramics in her life even less than I do, it’s my friend Jane. Yet…there we were, last week, in Deruta ‘just looking.’ Yes, I admit, we fully enable each other. But this time around we were actually on a mission. Jane had to find a wedding gift, so there was that.
Entering Sberna, we got that part out of the way in about 4 minutes. Pair of candle sticks. Bought and paid for in a record 10 minutes flat (Jane and I have gotten really good at this ceramic shopping stuff)
The problem was that we had time to kill. Bad things (or good things depending on how you look at it) happen with time on your hands. So we decided to visit some of the workshops in Deruta that we hadn’t been to for a while. We visited Geribi, which has a signature pattern made up of deep yellow scales that we both love. And we decided to head to Cama, one of the major producers in town that I hadn’t been to in years.
Sadly, Cama had gone out of business over three years ago. There was just a dusty, boarded up window where their glistening store used to stand. Gone bankrupt, like so many of the others in town, unable to compete with global marketing and cheap knockoffs from Asia.
Another boarded up window actually brought tears to my eyes. Antonio Margaritelli was perhaps one of the best known artisans in Deruta. He was part of an older generation who not only ground his own pigments to recreate the tones and colors of ancient works of art, but rediscovered and practiced many lost techniques including lustre. He had passed away the previous week, working right up until the end of his life.
Amid all this change we were thrilled to find FIMA very much open for business. I’m sure I will get lots of comments on this post, since FIMA is rightly many people’s go to choice for high quality ceramics in Deruta. It is one of the few places that still works every single stage of creation on site – from processing the clay to the finished glazing. Their standard of decoration is extremely high, with exquisite brush work on everything from the smallest cup to the large decorative platters.
But what I love about FIMA? That they continue to produce new and wonderful designs not found anywhere else. I love the fact that they have taken their very traditional “Fondo” design and transformed it using bright new colors like orange, mint green and turquoise. And their jewel colored “Vario” which they apply to the surface of everything from canisters to platters always tempts me. And then there are their artfully painted display pieces like urns and platters meant to hang on walls. I mean really, do I need an urn? At FIMA I start to think I do.
But what I really loved seeing this time around was that FIMA has gladly taken over some of Cama’s old patterns. My favorite “Siena”, with the white deers displayed on a deep black background was there. And yes, I’m seriously thinking of ordering an entire 12 piece place setting of that pattern because I had always wanted to do so from Cama, but now that’s no longer a possibility. I don’t want to make the same mistake twice.
PS: In case you were wondering, in addition to that wedding present Jane ‘had’ to get, she also came away with a set of bowls, a plate or two and I came home with 8 mugs.
FIMA
Via Tiberina Sud 111
Deruta
+39.075.97.11.285
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I love Geribi too!! A great studio! And we can buy him in the U.S. at Via Umbria in Georgetown … Or online Viaumbria.com… Of course a visit to Deruta is always best!
Love Via Umbria!!!
I do hope Le Sorrelle Binaglia are still there in Deruta. We have been visiting them for years. My parents had a custom tile made with our family’s name on it. I will check out Fima also. Thanks.
I’m not sure, I haven’t been to Sorelle Binaglia in years either.
I’m drooling over that blue pitcher in the first image.
And I see why you are attracted to the pattern of white deer on a black background.
Yeah, it was hard leaving that pitcher behind.
Is there anywhere in rome to look and purchase these ceramics? Thanks
Belinda
I don’t think so. There is a store in Piazza della Pietra that carries a lot of ceramics, but I don’t think they carry FIMA
Is it a reasonable day trip from Rome for folks without a car? And the name of the store in Piazza della Pietra?
thanks…
Unfortunately a day trip to Deruta is not really doable without a car. Very easy with one though. You can either rent one yourself, of get a car and driver on your own, or join me on one of my Day Trips out of Rome . The name of the store in Rome is De Sanctis
Elizabeth,
Your news of Margaritelli’s death brought tears to our eyes too. We knew he was closing his shop and studio and feared it was ill health. We commissioned him to do several pieces over the years, including one featuring a badger (our house in Tuscany is called Bucatassi which we choose the translate Badger Hollow). He once gave us a tour of his studio and showed us a ragged dog eared book that he said contained all his secrets. It was the 16th century book by Cipriano Piccolpasso called Arte del Vasaio. Through the wonders of Google and Amazon, I found a copy in Italian and English published as The Potter’s Art in 1934 by the V & A. He was as you say a real treasure.
I know, it’s so sad now driving by the store and seeing it completely shut tight.
I must admit the orange, turquoise and acid green colors in the pitchers from FIMA do nothing for me…when something traditional works, why change it? Fortunately I connected to their site and saw that they are still doing the traditional colors and designs…About 28 yrs ago I bought an entire dinner service from Sberna in their Gallo series in green…I still love it…In addition over the years I bought two large reproduction plates (to be displayed on the wall) from G.Marmottini (he worked for years at Grazia in Deruta, then retired and opened his own shop), one an exact reproduction from the original in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London…unfortunately, I imagine he has passed away now,as the plates were bought quite a number of years ago…At any rate, if one is coming through Rome and looking for ceramics, it would be a good idea to rent a car and just go…not so hard, about 2 hrs from Rome…start off early so you can visit all the shops…in addition many of the shop owners live above their shops, so if you ring during lunch time, they will very nicely come down…Have fun…
After years of talking about it, my husband and I finally made it to Italy for 16 days. In my pre-trip research I stumbled upon your website. I have two pieces I bought many, many years ago at Biordi in San Francisco. They are signed Cama, Deruta, Italy. I decided we HAD to go to Deruta. I copied the address of FIMA and my husband, the map geek, found it. I wanted to practice my italiano, which is slow, but fortunately Michele spoke English! He graciously gave us a tour. He said he knew Cama and was heartbroken when they went out of business about 10 years ago. My plan was to buy 1 piece to go with my collection. I bought a vase and a biscotti jar. We also bought a plaque for us and one for a long time dear friend. When we got home, I kept looking at plates. I don’t know the name but it’s the design on the 2nd shelf from the top in your picture. It makes me teary and absolutely warms my heart every time I look at it. I emailed Michele and ordered 6 4-piece place settings in the Biordi version, which they can do since they supply Biordi. So, my plan to buy 1 piece went down the tube and I ended up with 28! I can’t wait to get them!!! I’m so glad I stumbled on your website. Molto grazie!
Hurray!!! Glad it all worked out and that there is more ceramics in the world and in your life!
Hi Elizabeth!
Loved the 2 ceramics locations we visited May 2023 – Fima and Sberna. I have a question about the care of my plates, cups and also my favorite – the martini glasses from Fima. I assumed that I cannot put any of these in the dishwasher. Is that correct? Sorry for such a mundane question!
I hope to do some more shopping there with you & Sophie on another trip to Umbria.
Cheers! Lynne (Moneypenny😉)
You can put them in the dishwasher, but best not to set on the high ‘dry’ cycle. As for the martini glasses, I would hand wash those.
Is there any way we can purchase ceramics from Deruta in the US? I’m in Los Angeles
There are many stores that import them, but you can always order directly from places like Sberna and Fima.