Rarely do I wander aimlessly in Rome. I live here, so I’m usually on my way somewhere. That said, Rome is not so big, and eventually, over the course of a year, I do manage to make my way around a good part of the centro storico, where I live.
One neighborhood that has been off my radar for a long while is Trastevere. Located on the ‘other’ side of the Tiber river, it’s not that it’s that far away, but for a while I’ve just had no reason to go over there. That didn’t used to be the case. In fact, there was a time when I walked through that part of town on a pretty regular basis, on my way to see a movie at the Pasquino cinema.
Anyone who has lived in Rome for as long as I have has a soft spot in their heart for the Pasquino. For a very long time, in the dark ages before the internet, and in the even darker ages before dvd’s, and in the prehistoric era before video, this was the place where expats in Rome headed to if they wanted to see an American film in the original language.
My first memories of the Pasquino date back to when I first lived in Rome with my family in the early ‘seventies. While I don’t remember any specific movies I saw there, I do remember certain parts about the ritual of going to that theater, which was incredibly exciting. The main feature of the screening room was the fact that it has a retractable roof that opened up during the summer months to let a little breeze into the of course un-airconditioned space. The lights would dim and a creaky sound would start, as the skylight opened up to the Rome sky. Part of the excitement was also knowing the urban myth that sometimes cats (or rats? I never got that part straight) might fall in as the panels opened up. I was never lucky enough to be there when this happened.
The other major attraction was the vendor who would appear before the show or during intermission, a large wooden tray held in place by a strap around his neck. Very small packs of popcorn, Cokes and my favorite: small boxes of chocolate covered ice cream bon bons that seemed beyond exotic to me.
By the time I moved back to Rome in 1990 the Pasquino has long since been renovated. It had installed a/c, done away with the skylight, but was still one of the only places to see English language movies. Over the course of that decade, as vhs machines began the slow road of Roman cinemas’s demise, the cinema renovated again, splitting itself into a three screen miniplex. And then that whole dvd/internet thing happened, no one went to the movies anymore, and the Pasquino finally closed down.
All this long story just to explain why I don’t make my way over to Trastevere anymore.
But recently I made the executive decision to take a walk over there, wander, eat, shop and kind of get lost (everyone gets lost in Trastevere, it’s not just me)
I went over during the day, when Trastevere is mostly the domain of people who live and work there. At night it becomes something quite different with lots of bars feeding a nightlife that is definitely not my thing (although it may be yours).
If you do find yourself in that part of town, (and I suggest you do) and hungry, here is a list of places that might come in handy.
Renella Via del Moro 15
One of the oldest bakeries in Rome sells some of the best pizza by the slice, to eat there (standing) or take away.
Osteria La Gensola Piazza della Gensola 15 06.581.6312
One of the best fish restaurants in Rome, in a low key and relaxed setting.
DOT Bar Bistro, Via Natale del Grande 52, 06.5581.7281
The owners of La Gensola opened this place recently. It combines some of the same fish dishes from their old place with well made cocktails.
Pianostrada Vicolo del Cedro 26,
Street food brought to new heights in this pocket-sized place run by four women.
Sisini La Casa del Suppli, Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137
A Roman institution specializing in suppli, deep-fried rice balls.
Da Enzo,Via dei Vascellari 29, 06.581.2260
My favorite trattoria in Trastevere, offering seasonal, traditional Roman food.
Pasta all’Uovo, Sorelle Piras, Via del Moro 32
Stop by here to pick up freshly made pasta if you have an apartment and are able to cook.
Fatamorgana, Via Roma Libera 11
The Trastevere location of this by now well known Roman gelateria.
Fior di Luna, Via della Lungaretta 96
Another very good gelateria, with attention to ingredients.
Antica Cacciara, Via San Francesco a Ripa 140A/B
Stepping into this cheese store is like stepping back in time. Very old fashioned, with lovely owners who are happy to help you choose your cheese/
Innocenti, Via della Luce 21
A cookie factory. Need I say more?
Ai Marmi, Viale Trastevere 53
This is where Trasteverini go when they want a pizza. A Roman institution.
Ma Che siete venuti a fa, Via di Benedetta 25
One of the widest selections of craft draft beers in Rome in this tiny place.
Mama Eat, Via di San Cosimato 7/9, 06.580.6222
This is one of the best seriously gluten free restaurants in Rome.
Piazza San Cosimato Market
Open air market.
Bio Maison. Via di S. Crisogono 39
This concept store (half of it’s a hairdresser oddly enough) offers great salads, sandwiches and juices that are organic and often gluten free and/or vegan.
For more information on dining in Rome and Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Venice, Milan, Rome, Florence and Umbria (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad.
For more on Rome please buy my book, Eating Rome: Living the Good Life in the Eternal City.
And if you’d like to take a Food Tour around Trastevere, just contact Sophie and she’ll be glad help you.
You haven’t been in the neighborhood in a long time, you went over for a day – – –
and, you experienced ALL those restaurants, you personally know that they are all good???
Some are places that I visited that day, and others that I’ve visited before or after. And yes, they are all very good.
It is, at this time anyway, my favorite neighborhood in Rome even though it has changed quite a bit since I first began visiting again around 20 years ago, in terms of tourist numbers. But the charming streets are still charming, the sites are still well worth the time (Corsini, Farnesina, Museo di Roma). Stayed again for over a week in April and sadly missed out on the outdoor movies being shown by Cinema America Occupato – which looked delightful. Too much good food finds to mention. Thanks for the nice, comprehensive list!
I’d love to hear what places you like too!
Ah the Pasquino . . . was it really that long ago? I have exactly the same memories.
I know, seems like yesterday, right?
I remember watching the Illustrated Man there in 1972? and in the movie it was raining and outside it was pouring. Water started pouring in at the sides of the theater. Nobody left, just moved either forward of the dip or behind it to avoid the pond of water. Loved going there and loved Rome.
Are these places in your new Rome app?
Yes, most are, and the rest will be next week.
Thanks for the recommendations – I’m arriving in Rome in 3 weeks and staying in Trastevere so your post is very opportune! My second time to visit Rome and I can’t wait.
In 2011 after 9/11, I was fortunate to visit Rome for one week with my sister and two friends. We spent a day walking the old Jewish quarter and enjoyed it immensely. I am no longer able to travel as I care for my 81-year old husband, but thoroughly enjoy all your articles and food photos. I have food photos from my very few travels and love to spend an hour or two going over my scrap books. Keep up the good work. Your photos always bring back good memories.
Thanks so much for sharing your memories and so happy that my photographs spark them.
Perfect timing! My yoga studio just opened another location in Trastevere and I’ll be over on that side of the river more than ever now.
I grew up right around the corner, on via della scala, from the pasquino! My memories are just like yours! If I recall correctly it was only 500 lira for a ticket! And I used to like the Cornetto algida with the chocolate at the bottom of the cone!
OMG, that cornetto was the best!!!
The Pasquino was an integral part of my high school years growing up in Rome. A different random movie every night, and a very popular one on the weekend. We came on the #97 bus from EUR. There was a pizzeria al taglio place on Via Lungaretta that must surely be gone now. I have fond memories of their pizza bianca. Thanks for the memories.
Always stay at Donna Camilla Savelli a convent now a beautiful hotel on via Garibaldi. Has a gorgeous garden, chapel and nuns still living there. Great views of Rome from some rooms and rooftop. Da Otello also great place to eat and nona’s lasagna at osteria numero 5 is sensational.
I love the Donna Camilla Savelli too. And thanks for the other recommendations.
I saw your photo of suppli. Beautiful! Are they the same as arancini?
Similar, but a bit different. Suppli are oval shaped, made with a tomato based sauce and usually have (at least in Rome) an oozing mozzarella center. Arancini (which are Sicilian) are larger, and round, and can come in various ‘flavors’ but are usually not made with a tomato based sauce.
I remember the Pasquino cinema back in 1982 when i studied in Rome.
A cinematic experience unlike any other!
It was my favorite neighborhood in Rome. I was there in 2014 with my best friend, it was the last leg of our European trip and I got sick with fevers. Even with fevers, I still had to see Rome and I remember my visit to Trastavere after a thunderstorm. I remember the changing lights, the beautiful cobblestoned streets, the river, the long vines from some fantastic colored buildings. I would love to go back one day.
Such wonderful memories of the Pasquino as a college student in Rome with the retractable roof. I am sure they showed The Blues Brothers (or some other filmed in Chicago movie) one night and the place was packed with Loyola, and Notre Dame kids. Rome felt like a small town and that we had lived there forever. You didn’t mention Pizzaria Ivo’s, which we always went to before or after a movie. Not as popular as some other places that get lots of write ups, but I still try to go when I am visiting.
So funny that you mentioned Ivo’s! I was just thinking that I should have included it in my list. But I haven’t been there in at least 6 years, and so want to check it out before adding it. But yes, we used to go there too, often, and I still remember the first time I had pizza with the egg on it.
I loved Pasquino in the late 80s – early 90s. One of my last movies there (before they renovated it) was The Bonfire of Vanities. As an Italian still learning English, I have to admit I did not understand a word of the movie, but loved the experience.
Years later I saw a Spike Lee movie there. My English was stonger by then and I understood most of it, but it was after the reno and the vibe was gone…
Thanks for bringing the memories back.
I love your blog. great shot of the suppli’ there!
In response to the first comment: the pictures and the reviews clearly must have been taken over some time (which is totally fine)…nobody is wearing coats in Rome in September.
If anyone is in Trastevere, head to “Dar Poeta” for pizza. it’s amazing…hard to get in, but worth the hassle.
it’s just behind Piazza Trilussa.
Elizabeth, if you want to go, send me an email and i’ll put you in touch with the restaurant manager. It’s a great place!
I love hearing your memories. I have a vague recollection of seeing a Spike Lee movie there too. Dar Poeta is on my to do list: I haven’t been there in years and years.
dar poeta for me is the perfect hybrid of thin Roman pizza and thicker Neapolitan. It’s neither of the two but right in the middle. Really wonderful pizza dough.
Panettoni (aka the The Morgue or Ai Marmi) is traditionally Roman style= thin and slightly charred at the edges. I love both but lately Dar Poeta has been more satisfying for some reason.
By the way does anyone remember the name of the Algida Bon Bons that came in those little paper jewelry boxes? Typical movie treat, as mentioned in the post. In saying Bon Bon I almost gave it away but don’t google it!!!
Looks like such a lovely neighbourhood. I haven’t been to Rome yet but its up there on my list. Bookmarking this for when I can go!
Dar Poeta is wonderful but even if you are stuffed from the delicious meal, do try the Nutella Ricotta Calzone. For dessert. It is sooo good!
Mmmm…that Nutella Ricotta Calzone sounds like it may be worth a trip on it’s own
The Nutella Calzone at Dar Poeta is fantastic.
If anyone is looking for independent movies on Rome and the “lingua originale” experience, my suggestion is Detour on Via Urbana. The room is very small but the indy vibe is definitely there…One time I was there, the movie started and someone asked me to turn the lights off, as I was the closest to the switch!
Alternatively, Nanni Moretti’s Nuovo Sacher in Trastevere offers great movies and in the summer they show them outdoors! it’s a 10 min walk from Ai Marmi/Panattoni and a 15 min walk to Dar Poeta (if you don’t get lost like i would)
Isn’t Detour the space that was taken over by Urbana 47 a few years ago? The Nuovo Sacher is great, but hasn’t had an original English language movies in years,I think.
Detour moved a few years back from the original location/ they had some financial issues but they recovered and they are just up the street.
I believe Nuovo Sacher still offers movies in the original language on mondays ans tuesday. i havent been there in a while, but it’s worth checking out