I’m a sucker for a lost person. It’s very hard for me to pass by a tourist, holding an old fashioned paper map, and looking utterly confused as they turn the map in circles while looking up, trying to find a street sign. Even though Rome is not that big, it can be more than a little confusing to first time visitors.
So I stop, I ask if they need some help, and then send them on their way. 9 times out of 10, of course, they are looking for a restaurant. And I’m not sure they realize how lucky they are that I’ve stopped to help them.
The other day there was a particularly desperate family standing in the heart of the Jewish Ghetto, turning in circles, looking hot, confused and hungry. I stopped. I asked. And it turns out they were looking for Trastevere because, they had heard, “There are a lot of great restaurants there, right?”
Rather than go into a long and drawn out discussion of the fact that most of the restaurants in Trastevere are tourist traps these days, I instead took pity on them, took out my pen, and marked an X where they could find Da Enzo, one of the few dependable old fashioned trattorie in Trastevere.
Because, no, Trastevere is not filled with lots of great restaurants. There are a handful though, but you really have to know where to go. Many look as if they would be good: rickety wooden tables covered by paper tablecloths, neon lighting and wine bottles stacked precariously on over head shelves. But in reality? The food is often slapdash, made of cheap ingredients and overpriced, the result of Trastevere’s charming alleyways becoming one of the major tourist attractions in Rome.
Da Enzo, thank god, not only talks the talk, but walks the walk. It doesn’t just look like an authentic Roman trattoria, it is an authentic Roman trattoria where you can still get the classics, well made with care, and an eye to seasonal, often organic, ingredients.
Last May I stopped by and actually managed to get there early enough to get a table at lunch time (it’s always packed). I was with Sophie and of course we were both starving even though it was only 12:30. We were very thankful for the slices of still warm pizza bianca that arrived at the table as soon as we sat down.
To start a duo of carciofi fritti. Since it was still early in the season, the massive stem was still attached and standing proudly atop the rim of crispy artichoke petals. Sophie’s rigatoni all’amatriciana was perfectly al dente, full of chewy chunks of guanciale and amply dusted with pecorino romano. I went for one of the daily specials, a light as feather lasagna layered with artichokes and zucchini flowers.
The printed menu contains all the classics, like carbonara, gricia and cacio e pepe. But before you decide, look at the chalk board for the daily specials. You’ll note that Da Enzo not only charges for the bread basket, but also for the olive oil if you’d like to dip. But the bread is pretty great, including the pizza bianca, and the olive oil is organic. So just say yes. Also, this is the kind of place where you’ll notice all the regulars ordering the house wine. Follow suit.
The desserts, including the home made tiramisu, are also great. As is the friendly service. Which is almost as hard to find these days in Rome as simple, well made, food. But now you have the directions where to find both.
Da Enzo
Via dei Vascellari 29, Rome
+39.06.581.2260
Closed Sunday.
For more information on dining in Rome and Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Venice, Milan, Rome, Florence and Umbria (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad. And if you want to delve further in to Roman food, please buy my book, Eating Rome, available on Amazon or at through your local book store.
Apropos of charging for the olive oil: When my father was still a teenager (he was born in 1911) he moved from Massachusetts to New York City to work at his uncle’s little restaurant near Columbus Circle. A customer asked him for some oil for his salad. My father reached up to the top shelf and grabbed the bottle of very good olive oil that his aunt and uncle used. His uncle, ever the cheapskate, jumped up and snatched the bottle from my father’s hand and said “Don’t give them that, It will make them sick”
I’ll make sure to get “lost” the next time I’m in Rome…hoping I’ll run into you! Gorgeous post.
Would you please share how to prepare deep fried artichokes, I had one in Rome, loved it and would like to try them at home.
Thanks,
Maria Barattucci
Here is a video of how they prepare them at Giggetto. I have to admit, I never cook them at home.
http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2010/11/carciofi-alla-giudea/
Thanks so much for sharing the video for fried artichokes, I’m drooling just watching how they are prepared. I will try them soon.
Maria Barattucci
Getting lost seems to come with the territory! Even after 3 trips to Rome…guess what? Yup, getting lost. So easy to get turned around. But…we absolutely know where Trastevere is now! Would have loved to go to Da Enzo…but you can only cover so much territory. Your lasagne looks amazing…have to say…we were so surprised to see zucchini blossoms everywhere in October! I think we did them justice!
My husband and I spent a week in Florence earlier this month and mostly ate at restaurants you recommend on your blog – and we ate very well!! Thank you so much for this information, it was invaluable! Let me also plug another app – Chianti Food & Wine by Julie Witts (I think you gave it a shout out and that’s how I found it). We visited a winery on her app and it was spectacular!! Many thanks for your blogs, apps and writings! I do hope to return to Roma soon and perhaps take one of your tours. Grazie mille and ciao!
judy’s app is the best!!
Elizabeth,
Could you provide the name of the meal, that is featured on the first photo of the post?
With Best Regards
Ed Degan
Not quite sure what you mean by the ‘meal’? Do you mean the name of the dish that is photographed? That is zucchini lasagna, which I talk about in the post. Hope that answers your question.
We just got back from two weeks in Rome. Of your favorite trattorias Da Enzo was marvelous, Tonino was very good ,but Settimio served the worst meal we’ve ever had in Rome, and probably anywhere. Of old standbys, Matricianella is still good, as is Pierluigi, although it has gone way upscale since we started going there twenty-five years ago.
Happy to hear you had a delicious time in Rome. Sorry you didn’t like Settimio. It’s hard to believe it’s the worst meal you’ve had anywhere. But it’s definitely on the simple side, and perhaps is an acquired taste. A good part of its charm is it’s extreme simplicity, which is not for everyone.
A local told us about da enzo 4-5years ago on our first trip to Rome. Been back an additional 3 times since. It is definitely one of our favorites. We love their pasta carbonara and their tiramisu. I never like the tiramisu in the States, but so heavenly at da enzo. Your photos just remind me it is time to plan another visit. I hope we can do one of your tours on one of our return visits. Enjoy your blog. Thanks!!
Glad to hear you like Enzo too. And certainly hope you sign up for a tour next time you’re in town
Great post!
that carciofo (artichoke) in the picture is just to die for. I have walked by Enzo a million times and never have i gone in! will certainly do that on my next trip back to Rome.
thanks Elizabeth