These days it seems like when it comes to markets in Florence Mercato di San Lorenzo is getting all the love. Located between the railway station and theĀ Duomo, the 19th century covered market was, for years, the central market where most Florentines did their shopping. In the olden days (i.e. when I lived there 20 years ago) the ground floor was where the butchers, cheese vendors and dry goods stands were located. Upstairs, beneath the soaring wrought iron ceiling, dozens of fruit and vegetable vendors piled their goods in a beautiful, colorful display.
Things change. I know that. I donāt fight it and appreciate when something new comes along that is as good as the old. This has happened with the San Lorenzo market. You can read all about it here, where Iāve already written about it.
So I donāt criticize the fact that more people head to Mercato Centrale at the San Lorenzo market. And in fact, Iām a big supporter of it (and may even be one of the causes of it). Butā¦..if you want to know the truth, there is another market I much prefer.
The Mercato di SantāAmbrogio holds a special place in my heart for a lot of reasons. Mostly because this is the market where I shopped when I lived in Florence while working on my dissertation. It was the first real open Italian market that I shopped at while living on my own in Italy, cooking my way through Marcella Hazan.
Today I still visit it when I am in Florence. And am very happy to see that even though the market has changed a bit (there are fewer fruit and vegetable stands) there are still a few stands that are obviously run by farmers bringing their produce to market. Itās easy enough to spot them. They are the stands that have the largest crowds and the dirtiest vegetables.
Unfortunately Iām usually not cooking these days when I visit Florence, and so have to content myself with looking and taking photos of the food. Luckily for me Trattoria Rocco is still going strong, so I can also eat.
Long before there were food courts, and long long before things like Eataly, Mercato Centrale and other types of restaurants located in markets started being a āthingā there was Trattoria Rocco. It was, and still is, a tavola calda. That means that food is prepared in the morning, then kept warm in steamer trays, to be served in heaping portions all during lunch.
And while I usually donāt approve of things going too modern, I love Trattoria Roccoās new redesign. There is no door to the restaurant. Instead each table has itās own door, so you sort of slide into your banquet from the outside, and then the waiter comes to take your order from the inside. Very clever.
I stopped by a few weeks ago, and made this little video.
Mercato Sant’Ambrogio
Piazza Ghiberti, Florence
Open Monday – Saturday 7am-2pm
Trattoria da Rocco
Mercato Sant’Ambrogio
Open Monday – Saturday 12pm-2:30pm.
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Katherine
I love Mercato Sant’Ambrogio. I shopped there when I lived in Florence in 1992! It was practically the only market where I shopped and I lived on Via Ghibellina, very close by. There was a German lady who sold scrawny looking organic chickens and they made the best risotto (via their stock) I have every eaten. What a wonderful trip down memory lane!
Bob Blesse
Thanks, Elizabeth, what a great video! Vicki and I visit Mercato Sant’Ambrogio at least once a week to shop for good produce, meat, and cheese. We love it and frequently stop for a coffee af CaffĆØ CibrĆØo before heading back to our apartment to start cooking.
Elizabeth
Love Caffe Cibreo!!!
Janie
I just love your video! Thanks for all you do to keep us up on all these wonderful places. Now I’m dying for a bowl of ribollita.
Deborah Ciardo
I love the Sant’Ambrogio video. My daughter lived in Piazza San Lorenzo so of course we went there but I’ll take a look here next time I’m in Florence.