There are some words that, in the course of my professional career, I’ve learned directly in Italian. When I was writing mostly about design and architecture words like grondaia, altana and davanzali (gutter, balcony and windowsill) often came easier in Italian than they did in English. Similarly there are certain phrases having to do with food that spring to mind first in Italian, then in English. Yes, I’ve become one of those annoying ex-pats who pepper their English conversations with words like carciofi and lievito naturale rather than just bending my brain to say artichoke and yeast.
Sorry
But there are certain Italian phrases that I would never, ever think of using in English. Phrases that for me are so weighted in my Italian mentality that they just don’t occur to me to even think of them if I am speaking or writing in English. For instance colpo di freddo, or ‘hit of cold’ that is the bane of every Italian’s (including my own daughter’s) existence. It’s what happens when you get hit by a cold draft. Evidently you run the risk of dying. It’s an Italian thing.
I was thinking about all this the other day when an Italian friend used the phrase ‘buon rapporto qualita’ prezzo ‘ . Good value for money. Now I know there are probably some people who use this phrase in English to refer to restaurants. But it’s just not ever a phrase I would think of using. Good value for your money, when used in English with reference to a dining experience makes me think of an all you can eat buffet at Red Lobster .
In other words, the phrase, in English, in my mind, has more to do with quantity than quality. In my Italian friends’ minds I somehow think that quality is just as, or more important than quantity.
Anyway, all this complicated story to say that I’ve been thinking about all these issues – quality, quantity and price – and what my views were when it came to reviewing a restaurant. And I have to admit that I don’t use the phrase , in either language really, when describing a restaurant. In fact, although I know full well that some restaurants are expensive and others less so, it’s not ever the first thing I think of. Because for me there is another element that has a complicated relationship with both price and value and quantity and quality that is usually the defining element of whether I fall in love with a place or not.
For instance, I went to a Michelin starred restaurant last week in Torino. The 90 Euro, 6 course tasting menu can probably be defined as extremely good rapporto quality prezzo. But….I did not fall in love with the place, despite the Ginori china and fresh flowers and – I have to admit – the huge quantity of good food for that price.
It made me realize that the transformative experiences for me, in restaurants, these days have as much to do with culture and people and an undefinable element that makes me feel like I’m part of something bigger than just sitting down for a meal. Yes, there is certainly food involved. And it has to be good food. But there is also so much going on that has to do with people, places and things that add to my element of not only contentment and satisfaction, but also a kind of complete bliss that makes me feel that all is right with the world.
I did not have this kind of moment at the Michelin starred restaurant. Not by a long shot.
I did, however, have it at a quite ordinary, working class restaurant on the outskirts of Florence a few weeks ago.
Sabatino is a place I’d been wanting to go for a long time. But since it’s located just outside the gate of San Frediano – and so at least a 20 minute walk from where ever I usually was – I had never made it there. Also? Whenever I phoned, they never really wanted to take a reservation, something which always makes me kind of uneasy.
One of the reasons I’d always wanted to go there is because it is my friend Judy’s husband’s favorite place. Andrea grew up in the neighborhood and it was just ‘where he went.’ Which sounded like the kind of local place I usually love. And while he never talked about the food, it was the ‘idea’ of the place that stuck in my mind.
A few weeks ago I finally made my way there. Since they open early for lunch, at noon, I figured I would get there as close to 12 as possible to assure myself getting a table. It was a completely glorious day in Florence. Bright blue skies and a crisp, cold wind as I walked over the Ponte Santa Trinita and down Borgo San Frediano. Once I was through the massive medieval Gate of San Frediano, and onto the Via Pisana I had a hard time finding the place. Tucked into the corner where two nondescript buildings came together at right angles, I spotted two men heading into a doorway. With dogs. And in fact, the sign read Trattoria Sabatino.
Once in, I felt that I was in some sort of private club, called a circolo in Italian. The big open space had mostly tables for 8 lined up against the walls. Kind of cafeteria like. When I told the woman who came to seat me that I was just one person, she lead me to a table where two other women were already seated. I soon struck up a conversation and learned that they were mother and daughter and that the daughter came by every day to pick up her mother, and her dogs, take them for a walk and stop by to eat lunch. My first question was, of course, what kind of dogs. At which point she just lifted the edge of the red checkered table cloth and there they all were. Behaving perfectly. As if they came here all the time. Which they did.
And which, almost everyone else in this restaurant did as well. Yes. There was maybe one table of French tourists. But I swear that everyone else had the feeling of coming here almost every day, all of their lives, to have lunch, catch up with their friends, and then head on their way. Some had their dogs. Some had their elderly parents. Some had both.
At that point Andrea walked in. He looked at what I had ordered – a plate full of stewed leeks and another full of greens and squid – and somehow felt he had to justify his attachment to this place to me. “The food is ok,” he said, ‘But I come here mostly for the conversation.’
And as he continued onto his table to meet some childhood friends of his, I continued digging into my very good food but also chatting with my new friends and their incredibly cute dogs. For me, getting a chance to meet new people, hear about their lives, share my own stories – all while eating a plate fulls of warming, hearty well made food – with dogs to boot? How do you figure that into some sort of formula of rapporto qualita prezzo? For me, in this ever changing world and even more rapidly changing Italy, this kind of experience, which has everything to do with gathering around a table over traditional food is, in fact, priceless.
But just in case you are interested in the prices? They are some of the lowest I’ve seen in Florence. Pastas cost 4,20 and my plate full of Seppie in Zimino was 6,20. The leeks, stewed slowly in olive oil with a bit of tomato cost 2,70.
So yes. There is in fact a ‘buon rapporto qualita’ prezzo.’ But, as Andrea pointed out, it’s not about the food.
Trattoria Sabatino
Via Pisana 2r
Florence
+39.055.224955
For more information on dining in Florence and Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Venice, Milan, Rome, Florence and Umbria (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad
Wow, I have actually eaten at a place you have reviewed. I was briefly living in an apartment of a friend right near the Porto and was told to go there for sure. It was just as you described it. Only later did I read Judy’s review of the restaurant. Will definitely go again. The food was excellent and I loved the family feeling.
I can’t believe I actually went to a restaurant in Florence before you. I was there in June 2012 and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. It was so interesting to watch the people who all seemed to know each other and the staff. And the food was delicious and, as you said, buon rapporto qualita prezzo!
I love your opening paragraphs with their discussion of what words belong in what language — I’m fascinated by the way we consign certain concepts to the language we learned them in and the way multilingual speakers switch languages so effortlessly when they need to.
And thank you for yet another restaurant recommendation — despite having made three visits to Italy in the last few years, we have not yet made it to Florence — an intended day trip last month got curtailed by a sick granddaughter. I’ll be sure to download your app when we finally manage to visit that city. . .
Although I will never travel to Italy to enjoy these wonderful meals, I thoroughly enjoy the stories and pictures……….. and dream of places of great mystery and romance. Thank you. jane
My daughter is a lazy speaker, she speaks to me in perfect English but with all the nouns in Italian! But I often find myself asking people if they want to go for a giro….Some words make more sense that others!
Exactly! Giro is a perfect example!!!
I have been to Italy a few times and have always thought the regional dishes are all so peculiar. Florentina cuisine, like most of Italy is rustic, and the look looks like it tasted gracious.
Oh for a time machine. I want to be there right now! Even though I don’t speak a word of Italian, I know I would feel right at home. Please tell us about the amazing Lemon Tart.
And as for the “colpo di freddo” – I was recently hit by one and know the effects are dire. So glad to have a name for it!
Thanks always.
That lemon tart looked amazing!!! Unfortunately I was headed out the door when I saw it, so wasn’t able to try it.
Bellissimo racconto Elizabeth!!! Much more fascinating a trattoria like that than a Michelin starred place…
We love Trattoria Sabatino!! We go there every time we’re in Florence…..first learned about it through Rick Steves (who described it, I believe, as ‘disturbingly cheap’). Often his mentions can lead to overcrowding of places with tourists, but we’ve always been completely outnumbered by the locals.
One our favorite meals there:, a table across from us began to fill up with older gentlemen….they added chairs to the table as their numbers grew. They kept getting food that wasn’t on the menu so we just started asking for “whatever they are having”….most memorably some delectable poached pears.
I think perhaps because it is so off the beaten path, the tourists don’t venture out too much.
The first year we found Sabatino, we also found il Fagioli on your recommendation. Buon appetito!!! Please keep finding out of the way places!
Lovely write up! Good to know that despite being somewhat of a newcomer to Florence, compared to say Judy here since the 80’s, Sabatino’s was one of the first to end up on my list. When something is good- you just know it! I just hope it retains its soul for as long their arista lives!
Great post, and yes colpo di freddo can be deadly.
How can i explain it to my lovely, American wife?
Incredibly, she has also never heard of “corrente” (draft) which can be very dangerous too.
It’s just a very dangerous world for Italians.
Thank you for your always interesting, well-written posts and great tips (love your videos, too!).
I live in Florence and heartily approve of your Florence posts.
For years my friends and I have discussed the medical problems only Italians know about (not to mention the fact that medical knowledge and awareness seems to be in their DNA) and we loved this BBC article when it came out:
http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-15987082
Haha!! I remember that article very well!!!
I felt whisked to Florence here. At the same time I longed for home. Lovely post.
Thank you!!!!
Elizabeth,
What you wrote about food and quality was perfect – my feelings exactly!
And about Sabatino, I was reminded of the time I ate there about 14 years ago and sat at the table with a young engaged couple which ended with the girl dragging me into the bathroom to cry her eyes out because she didn’t want to marry this boy. How it all turned out, I’ll never know. But I’m going back there this May, for sure!
OMG, what a story!!!!
Elizabeth you made me laugh with your colpo di freddo story. I grew up speaking Spanish and to this day, my Mom blames all ailments, including my recent toothache on “golpe de frio”. I just roll my eyes and smile. My husband and I will finally be visiting Italy this September (didn’t make it for our honeymoon) and I am downloading your app today. Thank you for the stories and the laughs!
I had not idea it translated into spanish as well. Be very carful!!!
Elizabeth, I love food but it resonates with me when you say it is not about the food it is about life, which is about people, love, shared experiences…and FOOD! The food has to be good and it is a big deal! I just started reading your blog, it is the only one I read…haha. Thanks for the balanced life approach! Of course I landed on your blog…why?…searching for a good chicken recipe…hahaha. John
Thank you and…..OMG, do you know how many people find me looking for a chicken recipe? I guess I should actually write one!!!
Buon Giorno,
I lived in Florence in the 80s and again in early 2000s. I have always loved those old style places, and I enjoyed reading your posts about Burde and Sabatino this month. It was fun to be reminded of them. I’ll be back there this spring, and it will be lovely to eat at those places again. I enjoy a lot of the new food places too– gosh the scene has really changed since the 80s hasn’t it? But it’s also a relief and a comfort to see that some of the traditional places are still going strong and remained unchanged.