This is the time of year I love love love to eat outside. One of my favorite places is, (sorry, not sorry) my own terrace in Rome. Since it’s just a tad too small to invite you all over for lunch or dinner, I thought I’d pull together my short list of restaurants where outside dining is a thing.
Although there are quite a few restaurants in Rome with a few outside tables, not all have what I’m looking for. The first requirement is, of course, good food. But there are other things to consider as well. Are the tables and chairs comfortable? Is there a nice view? And we’re all agreed that being stuck at table in the middle of traffic is a stressful situation, right?
So here are some of the places I head to when I actually leave my terrace.
Giggetto: If you follow me on any sort of social media, then you know I end up at Giggetto A LOT. It’s one of my favorites in the Jewish Ghetto. While I do love the outdoor seating in the front of the restaurant, beneath the ancient Portico d’Ottavio, not many people know they also have a cute little terrace in the back as well. Which, I have to admit, I actually prefer. Although it doesn’t have the killer views, it is fenced in, and so you don’t have to worry so much about people passing by selling stuff or (it’s a fact of Roman life) tying to nab your bag.
Piperno: Definitely a step up in service and quality from Giggetto, it’s my special occasion place. Or, rather, my ‘when my father is paying’ place. Love, love, love the cute hidden piazza that gets taken over with linen covered tables in the summer.
Pierluigi: This restaurant has gotten very expensive over the last few years, and so sadly, I go to it less often than I’d like. But it does have excellent seafood as well as being located in one of the prettiest pedestrian piazzas in Rome.
Pizzeria Emma; Although I actually prefer the inside dining room here, it’s difficult to find a pizzeria with outdoor seating that you can actually reserve a seat at. Most pizzerias are hit or miss when it comes to getting a table. So if you want your pizza alfresco, this may be your place.
Trattoria degli Amici: I don’t often land in Trastevere for dinner, since it’s just too crowded for me. But when I do, and when I want to eat outside, Trattoria degli Amici is perfect. Great food, roomy terrace and the staff is mostly people with disabilities, which makes the entire experience a very loving and caring one, that is a far cry from most of what goes on in Trastevere.
Flavio Velavevodetto: My go to in Testaccio, especially when I want to eat outside. They’ve recently expanded their outdoor area at street level, but my favorite spot, on a summer night, is the rooftop terrace. Be forewarned: it’s up a tight circular staircase, but is worth it.
Necci: if Necci were in the center, instead of Pigneto, I would be hanging out on their roomy, leaf covered terrace daily.
And a few more:
Carrette: pizza in Monti, outside tables in the back terrace.Â
Toricella: fish in Testaccio, and although the tables are on the street, the street is a pretty quiet one.
Nerone: Nice for their antipasto spread and the tables have a view of the Colosseum.
If you happen to be in Rome during July and August, there are also the restaurants that get set up along the banks of the Tiber and the Isola Tiberina. They change each year, and so quality varies. But the magical setting stays the same.
For more information on dining in Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Venice, Milan, Rome, Florence and Umbria available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad.
And don’t forget my book: Eating Rome, Living the Good Life in the Eternal City
Last Spring we were staying around the corner from Panella, which is on Via Merulan,a and we seemed to end up there sooner or later every day. A pleasant place to sit outside with something dainty to eat and something reviving to drink. And then wander over to the Asian arts museum across the street, or down the way to San Clemente or up the way to Sta. Prassede, a gem.
I always want to like Panella, really I do. But have been so ill treated there, so many times. The owners are just nasty, and pass along the poor service to the people who work for them. It’s a shame, because the food is so good and the square is cute.
Well they weren’t anything like warm and friendly. Especially the first time we were there. After that though, i’d say the service was a bit rushed, impersonal too, but OK.
You are correct about Pierluigi….they are expensive and oversell the amount of food diners can realistically consume. Last year, the out door dining was pleasant, but the sadly we were treated like tourist rubes. In past visits, we had a much better experience, hence our return last fall. We will not return there the next time we visit Rome. Thank you for your other suggestions, Elizabeth!
That’s too bad! I’m so sorry for your experience. They really do try to over sell, which is sad.
Thanks for this reminder of how much we miss being in Rome! Want to trade places?
A fabulous list which i must keep or get the app.
We LOVE sitting outside! Even last July (when it was 42 degrees in the shade!), we spent hours sitting outside sipping wine and eating pasta. Our list of places to visit expands with every one of your blog posts 🙂 As always, thank you so much for your suggestions and for your kind and thoughtful reviews.
btw – do you know if they will be doing opera at Caracalla again this year? We just happened to be in Rome for opening night of Turandot last year (it was amazing!) but wasn’t sure if it was a yearly event.
Thanks you for the kind words! I’m not sure about Caracalla. It always seems to be a bit of last minute planning and permissions (alla Italiana!). Have you tried looking at the website and booking tickets?
I just checked on Caracalla and it looks like the opening night for opera is 16 July which is our last night in Rome. Might be a nice way to end our vacation! We’ll just have to plan for dinner this time…last year, we didn’t allow enough time and were starving by the end of the show. Any recommendations for something nearby? Or are we better off having dinner before we head there (we’re staying at the Hotel Artemide and will probably need to allow 45 minutes for travel time to Caracalla)
There are several newish places on Viale Aventino, some of which aren’t bad. I haven’t been yet, but I hear good things about The Corner.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll do some snooping on The Corner.
While we have stayed in and love Monti, I think you are a bit harsh on Trastevere. Having also stayed at the excellent Donna Camilla Savelli in Trastevere on several occasions and eaten at many restaurants right in the heart of the tourist area e.g.. Da Otello ( good food, very friendly staff ) and Osteria Numero 6 ( fabulous lasagna) we would not stay anywhere else. Sure dining out can be a bit hit and miss, but the historic ambience and the huge choice of restaurants is hard to ignore.
I know that people do stay in and love Trastevere. And during the day I love it too! But I just don’t like dealing with the crowded alleys at night. And you’re right, there is a HUGE choice of restaurants, but that, IMHO, part of the problem. Just too many of them, most of them not good at all, and causing the streets to be almost impossible to pass through. But, as I say, it’s just my own opinion and I can definitely see why visitors would find the area beyond charming and fun.
Loved ready your blog. We are headed to Rome in July and after reading about your suggestions for food and where to go, I’m more excited now than before. Will certainly download your app to take along on the trip with us. Hurry up July! Thanks for your hard work Elizabeth.
Thank you for leaving such a nice comment! And have a great trip. Glad to hear you downloaded the app. Wanted to make sure you know I wrote a book too? Eating Rome. Link to the right.
So many restaurants, so little time…why do you torture me!
We’re arriving in Rome the morning of 14May2016, on our own for a few days before joining a small tour thru several southern towns.
I thought I was pretty well set up after reading Eat Rome, and now there’s Trattoria degli Amici on my short list for lunch! Seven meals and far too many wonderful choices.
It’s a nice pickle to be in.
We just finished a wonderful relaxied lunch here. Alici fritti like popcorn, amatriciana, and a wonderful octopus secondo. And a bottle of cesanese, of course!
I forgot to mention in my previous post that our lunch was at Trattoria degli Amici.
Also, the Eat Italy app shows Giggetto is open Wed-Mon, but their website says Tue-Sun,
I was wondering where you ate! Thanks for letting me know. I also fixed the Giggetto hours, thanks for that too.
Do you have any thoughts on Il Bacaro at Via degli Spagnoli, 27? I’ve passed by several times and it looks so cute.
No, I’m sorry, but don’t know that one.
Can you recommend outdoor restaurants in the historical center of Rome. Visit will be in early October. We really do not venture too far.( Antico Arco) was great.
Here is my list of favorites, although it may be hit or miss in October. The weather can be a bit iffy then. Lunch is your best bet. http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2016/04/eating-outside-rome/