I have a new favorite secret ingredient. And for those of you who know me well, you won’t be surprised to hear that it rhymes with pig.
Well. It is pig.
But a different cut of pig than I’m used to using. As you know, I’m always very likely to have either a hunk of guanciale or pancetta (or both) in my fridge. I use these fatty cuts to add essential flavor not just where you’d expect them (carbonara, amatrciana, gricia) but also where you’d least expect them (here, here, here).
These days I have to admit that in general we are eating less and less meat. But I am  by no means a vegetarian. And am especially fond of using just a bit of cured meat to give flavor and richness to otherwise meatless dishes. This is not my invention, but one of the fundamental tenants of cucina povera, or cooking on a budget, that is seen throughout Italian cuisine.
Last week I wrote about the fact that eating meat (specifically chicken) used to be considered to be a once a week (if that) special event. But during the rest of the week, and year, carefully cured bits and pieces of pork were often used to add not only flavor to seasonal vegetable based dishes, but much needed fat and protein as well.
My new favorite ingredient happened by chance a few weeks ago. Some guests who were staying in our apartment left me a few gifts from the Norcineria Viola. They knew my fondness for this small shop, and stopped by to pick up a parting gift for me. A few different kinds of sausage, a piece of guanciale and…a gambetto. If you don’t know what a gambetto is, don’t worry. I don’t think they did either. But it looked nice, and was even more attractive (I’m thinking) since it was a good price.
What is a gambetto? It is essentially part of a leg (gambo) of prosciutto. There are two ways of cutting prosciutto. You can either leave the bone in, and then cut slices off by hand. Or else (and this is the way it’s usually done in Roman alimentari) you can bone the prosciutto, stitch it back together, and then use the slicing machine to cut paper thin slices. This all goes well until you get to the very end of the leg, which is stubby and narrow, and so the slices start to get smaller and smaller. They still taste great, but most people will ask for the larger slices (from a new leg) since they look better.
So what to do with the leftover ‘bit of leg’? The gambetto? Sell it whole, in one chunk, at a much much cheaper price.
Which is how I ended up with a beautiful chunk of prosciutto that I’ve been using in just about everything.
Last week I made this deliciously easy bean soup. I had the very last bag of our own cranberry beans, dried, from last year, and after giving them an overnight soak, they were ready.Â
This soup is a two step process. First you have to cook the beans, and to do this it’s important to add flavor right from the start. So I added a cut up onion, garlic and a big handful of herbs from the garden(we were up in Umbria) to salted water. This meant that once the beans were tender, not only were they flavored with the seasonings, so was the cooking liquid, which became part of the final soup.
While the beans were busy cooking, I sauteed a big chopped leek with olive oil and then added about a half a cup my secret weapon:Â chopped prosciutto.
After removing the herbs from the bean pot, I added the sauteed leeks and prosciutto to the pot and cooked them together for another 45 minutes. Some of the beans kind of fell apart, others stayed whole and the soup thickened up and had the perfect porky, umami seasoning. Although I didn’t use a lot of prosciutto, the effect was large. Which is kind of the point of cucina povera. A little goes a long way.
I know that using a brodo cube or powdered broth is an easy way to add flavor to soups. But a bit of cut up gambetto? Much much better. Trust me on this one.
(FYI: don’t worry. Next week I’ll be writing about how to achieve the same heightened flavor in soup without any meat.)
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bean + prosciutto {soup}
Cook
Total
Yield 6
Ingredients
- 2 cups dried cranberry beans
- 1 onion
- 4 cloves garlic
- 2 tsp kosher salt
- one bunch herbs (sage, rosemary, parsley) tied together in a bunch
- 1 lark leek, white part only, diced
- 3 thick slices of prosciutto, diced
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
Instructions
- Soak the beans for at least 12 hours, or over night.
- Put the beans in a big pot, and cover with water by at least 3 inches.
- Peel and cut onion in half. Peel garlic. Add both to beans along with the salt and bunch of herbs.
- Bring the beans to a slow simmer and cook until tender. The amount of time will depend on how old the beans are. They should be very tender, and can take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and a half.
- In the meantime cut three thick slices of prosciutto from your gambetto. The slices should be about a 1/4 inch. If your gambetto still has the skin on it (and most do) but that off. Roughly dice the prosciutto.
- Pour olive oil into a medium sized frying pan. Heat over medium heat and add the leek. Cook until wilted, about 10 minutes. Add the prosciutto and cook for about 5 minutes.
- Once the beans are tender, add the contents of the frying pan to the beans. At this point there should be about an inch of liquid above the level of the beans. If you need to, add a cup or more of water. Stir, and simmer for about 45 minutes. Some of the beans will begin to fall apart and thicken the soup. Taste and adjust for seasoning. I’ve not added much salt, since the prosciutto adds a lot of saltiness.
- Serve topped with a swirl of your best olive oil.
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Linda
WOW, I have been making this bean soup with bits of prosciutto cut up, onions and garlic for years and years. It is so easy here in US as they sell the cut up pieces in handy little containers (2 per container) so no chopping involved. It isn’t a quick dish because of soaking the beans overnight, but I soak one night, cook the next day and we eat the 3rd day because flavors are then perfect !!! Thanks for sharing your recipe.
Rosalind
Where in the U.S. Do they sell the prosciutto?
Elizabeth
Prosciutto is nowadays pretty easy to find in most high end supermarkets as well as specialty Italian delis. The prosciutto that is imported is from Parma. I’m not 100% sure you can find a gambetto, but you can certainly buy a thick slice of prosciutto.
Vancouver Barbara
Looks and sounds delish. One question – I thought that cooking beans in salted water made them tough, so the question actually is this: do you take the skins off the beans so they aren’t tough?
Elizabeth
I’ve NEVER understood that salt and bean thing. If you don’t put salt in the water, the beans are kind of blah. And I absolutely never ever take the skins off! That would be an insane amount of work. As it turns out, the whole bean salting thing is a myth. Here is one of many articles on it: http://www.thekitchn.com/think-salt-is-the-enemy-of-perfect-beans-think-again-196470
Bob Blesse
Thanks, Elizabeth. At the little alimentari around the corner from us on Via Dante Alighieri, they frequently put end cuts of prosciutto in a basket on the counter at a discounted price. I’m grabbing one the next time I’m there and will make this lovely bean soup!
Marisa Franca @ All Our Way
Yum, your soup looks wonderful. Growing up I do remember mamma making chicken on Sunday but out of the bones she made brodo and throughout the week we would eat well but certainly not the amount that is consumed now in the US. There is nothing better than using beans that you have to soak — the taste and texture is wonderful! Thank you for your recipe and sharing your new discovery!
Michelle Cervone
Elizabeth, the gambetto appears to come from the shank. Ironically, there is an Amish Farmer at the Tribeca Farmers Market in NYC who sells smoked shanks for soup. It is obviously not as delicate as prosciutto, but it makes great bean soup. I always have a spare in the freezer.
Elizabeth
That sounds perfect! I sometimes used smoked cuts as well, when I want to add extra flavor.
georgette
This looks so so so good, the Mexican in mean cherishes anything with beans and I totally think that prosciutto makes everything sexier. ps. I’m with you on the less meat lately, perhaps it’s the season?
Deborah
Prosciutto Butts! I love this idea. I make a version of this soup every Sunday in my slowcooker with my lovely Rancho Gordo beans that I always have bags of–and I usually start with bones from whatever meat we ate recently–even little lamb bones–but pork flavors are my favorite too–
Did you grow those beans yourself? Gorgeous. The herbs too. You have a REAL green thumb.
Elizabeth
Yes, we did grow the beans, and the herbs too. And yes, I do have a nicely manicured green thumb, don’t I? 🙂
Steve Rothman
I about to make this soup….found the beans in Paris!
As I always use a pressure cooker for bean things (cuts the cooking time by more than 1/2 and keeps in much of the flavour), I was wondering if you had any experience with this recipe using a pressure cooker? Or would this be a big No-No? or….should I try it and tell you the outcome? lol
(in France, pressure cookers are a big thing!)
Elizabeth
You know, I’ve never used a pressure cooker. Domenico had one when I met him, but I kind of was scared of it and I think we gave it away. I just can’t get used to having something cooking that I can’t see or hear. Let me know how it comes out!
Juanita Nichols
I have been following your blog since the new year and I just love the photos, the recipes, the travel tips, etc.! Its been a dreary Spring here in Maine and the images of Italy cheer me no end. My husband and i are returning to Umbria in June to spend a week at Brigolante which i found on one of your posts. We are looking for a small apartment in Spello for the second week of our trip . Wondered if you had any .suggestions? Grazie mille! Juanita
Elizabeth
Thank you!!! Unfortunately I don’t know of a specific apartment in Spello, but I’m sure there must be some on airbnb?
Carol Cole
Hi Elizabeth,
I read this article a year ago or so and it has completely changed everything I thought I knew about cooking beans. You definitely don’t need to soak overnight, and even better cooking them in the oven is about the easiest way to go. I grow my own cranberry beans or buy them at the local farm market, those beans are so tender and cook up so much faster then that bag of beans off the grocery store shelf. I think the overnight soak hinders so many of us cooks since it takes 24 hour planning to get it all together. I have popped a pot of beans in the oven at 4pm and had a truly remarkable soup for dinner.
http://www.latimes.com/food/dailydish/la-dd-dont-soak-dried-beans-20140911-story.html
Give it a try.
best, Carol
PS we had a pasta session with your delightful Sophie last March!
Elizabeth
Thanks so much for this Carol, I’ll definitely give it a try!
Richard Pirrera
Went to my local alimentari to buy the ingredients for your artichoke lasagna and saw 2 lovely prosciutto ends, n picked them up for a song.
When I checked your blog, there it was, the perfect recipe to use them! Talk about serendipity! I love when the universe aligns like that!! Better yet u gave me a vocabulary lessonW/Gambetto. Perfect!
Elizabeth
Fantastic!! There are so many ways to use the prosciutto to add flavor. Have fun!