Last week I spent 36 hours in Naples with a friend. While we ate our weight in pizza (that was the point of this ‘research’ trip) we also managed to snack in between. While you’ll have to wait until my next book, Eating Italy, comes out for the pizza details, I’m happy to share some of my favorite snacks now.
By the way, none of this is new. Or I should say, it was new to me, but has been written about elsewhere. But I thought it would be a handy list to have in Naples just in case, you know, you get hungry between pizzas.
Di Matteo
This place is better known as a pizzeria. But it’s also a friggitoria, selling freshly fried things. One of those things is a frittatina, or a fried hockey puck shaped ball of pasta. I’m not sure how they do it, but it’s soft and tender and moist in the inside and crispy crackling on the outside. The pasta is thick strands of buccatini with egg holding it together with chunks of pork and the odd pea. Best. Snack. Ever. Via dei Tribunale 94
Il Vero Bar del Professore
Coffee in Naples is just better. People say it’s the water. Or the way the coffee is still pulled in old fashioned coffee machines. Whatever the reason it’s often so good it doesn’t even need sugar, much less milk. But even so….the owners of Il Bar del Vero Professore have seen fit to improve upon the simple espresso. Here the Nocciolato is a dark black shot that is mixed in a glass with crema di caffe (whipped coffee and sugar) and a hazelnut chocolate mixture. If it sounds sweet, it is. It is also just about the most delicious treat you can imagine. Also? If you’re coming off a carbohydrate induced pizza crash, it’s the perfect pick me up. Via Toledo 262, Naples
Scaturcchio
There are many baba’s in Naples, but Scarturcchio, located right on Via dei Tribunale, is not only convenient as you’re lurching from one pizza fritta to the next, it’s also the real thing. Although they offer mini baba’s, about as big as an espresso cup, make sure you order the normal sized one. Both Sam and I agreed, they are just better. Piazza S. Domenico Maggiore 19
Attanasio
Located in a grimy back alley just meters away from the central train station, this is the place to go for your last sfogliatelle fix before you leave town. The flaky, ricotta- stuffed, pastries are served piping hot. This means that since you have to wait for the batches to come out of the oven, there is almost always a line. That’s ok. It moves pretty fast. Take a number, go to the cashier and pay, and then wait. You’ll want to eat one right away, powdered sugar on your shirt and whatever else you’re wearing be damned. And if you know what’s good for you, you’ll order another half dozen to take back home with you. They come wrapped in a cute, ribbon-bedecked package, and the contents will ensure those back home will love you very much. Vico Ferrovia 1-4, Naples , Closed Mondays.
Since I ate my sfogliatelle too fast, this photo is by Sam Youkilis
For more information on dining in Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Venice, Milan, Rome, Florence, Torino and Puglia (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad. Coming in 2018 for free: Emilia Romagna, Campania (including Naples), and more.
As always – I enjoy your blog especially todays’ pastries – love sweets……….. beautiful Italy!!!!
I know you do a week in Rome but would you please please do a little time in Naples. My father was from Naples and every tour I have been on only “circles ” it by bus .. I want to go to all those places mentioned in your article.. please please!
In fact, we are in the process of planning a Day in Naples tour from Rome!
Will you have this finished by July 6??? That’s the only day we will have free to go to Naples and I really want to go despite everyone I know saying not to do it. I know there’s magic there. I just know it! I’m drooling looking at your pictures!
I’m so sorry, but no,it won’t be ready. Do go, however. It’s really worth it!!!
Having just had one of those piping hot sfogliatelle earlier this month I can attest to how amazing they are! Sfogliatelle have been one of my 2 favorite Italian pastries since I was a a child (pasta ciotti being the other), but having a fresh, hot one in Naples was life changing.
What is pasta ciotti?
It should be “pasticiotti.” Auto correct on my computer made it “pasta ciotti.” It’s basically pasta frolla filled with custard.
Well, that makes more sense!!
The coffee in Naples really is the best! Bologna, not so much… Did you try the sfogliatelle at Pintauro on the Via Toledo? After much research, they always come out on top for me. Attanasio is great too.
I agree about the coffee, for sure. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to try Pintauro, but it’s on my list!!
Just returned from a nice slow Euro trip which ended in Rome and I am sooo happy to say that we found (via your blog, certo!) Sora Margherita–may I say that the woman running it is a (in the BEST possible way) real pisser? We ordered our obviously first deep fried artichoke and to not waste time with verbal instructions, she plucked two whole leaves and stuck them in our amazed mouths, saying Tutti! in a firm voice–I loved her. And I had the best darn pasta that I have ever, or will ever have in my life. Thanks, Elizabeth, I give you all the credit for that experience 🙂
Fantastic!!! She’s actually a waitress there, and has been known to stand by tables, glaring, until every last bite is off your plate!!