eating in perugia {umbria}

Even though I’ve had a home in Umbria for about 30 years, and have traveled all over this region, the city of Perugia (the capital of Umbria) has always been a no-go zone. And it’s not just me who tends to avoid it. When I ask any of my neighbors here in the countryside (both foreigners as well as Umbrians) everyone has the same response: it’s just too much trouble.

The thing is, Perugia is located on top of a hill. And it’s a big hill and a big town. There are about 160,000 people living there, so it’s definitely the largest city in Umbria. And even though the center is medieval, the surrounding area that has been built up around it is more modern and navigating the roads that lead to it is a puzzle that is difficult to crack. First of all there is the ring road that had tons of tunnels and is a nightmare. Then, once you exit from the ring road and try to follow a map or GPS, the under passes, over passes, roundabouts and forks in the road often mean you  miss your turn and have to double back. By the way? This is not just me! It’s anyone you talk to.

And don’t get me started on parking. To visit Perugia you have to find, and then park, in one of 4 or 5 public parking lots. Once there, there are a series of escalators that lead up to the center of town.

But I’m here to tell you that it’s worth the effort. After more or less avoiding Perugia for 30 years, I’ve been up there about 8 times in the past few weeks. And it’s gorgeous. I now have pretty much figured out how to get to my preferred parking lot (Pellini is you want to know) and have figured out the route to get up to the center of town. Which has got to be one of the prettiest walks ever. Medieval buildings and Renaissance palaces are encrusted with carvings and wrought iron details. Buttresses shore up the tipsy foundations forming picturesque archways everywhere you look.

There is also art. Major art. In addition to the Duomo there is the Museum which holds masterpieces by Duccio, Piero della Francesca, Perugino and Fra Angelico, as well as Perugino’s frescoed jewel The Cambio.

The reason that I’ve been spending so much time in Perugia lately, though, is (obviously) because of food. This October I’m leading a week long tour of Umbria with my friend Evan and we will be hosting 30 donors to KCRW, where Evan’s show Good Food is produced. We will be based in Perugia (staying in this very fancy hotel!) and I needed to check out the current restaurant situation to plan out our dinners. Because while during the day we will roam far and wide around Umbria, in the evening who wants to get on another bus? Much better to wander through this gorgeous town and eat a delicious meal.

So for the last two weeks I’ve been enjoying delicious meals. Many many delicious meals. There was even one day when Sophie and I had lunch twice. (the sacrifices I make for work!)

While I’ll be posting fuller descriptions and many more photos in my app Eat Italy in the next week or so, I thought I’d at least post the list of restaurants right away. Just in case you make it up to Perugia. Despite the difficulty. Which you should. Because it’s a pretty fantastic city once you get there.

Osteria a Priori
This tiny restaurant is founded on Slow Food’s principles of using local and seasonal ingredients. The dining room is upstairs and the front of the restaurant is given over to a small shop that sells local legumes, as well as an outstanding selection of local wines, including many that are biodynamic and/or naturally grown. Via dei Priori, 39, 06123 Perugia PG tel: +075 5727 0987

Cantinone
This lovely little restaurant is located just off the main square. The small outdoor terrace faces one of the most stunning archways in town, but locals tend to head for one of the arched inner dinning rooms. I loved loved loved the Umbrian pesto which was made from majoram, thyme, savory and walnuts. Via Ritorta, 06123 Perugia PG +39. 075 573 4430

Al Mangiar Bene
This spacious restaurant is located down a little alleyway (as are most places in the center of Pergugia). The entry way is taken up by a massive wood burning oven that turns out pizzas in the evening, but is used to bake the restaurants bread every morning. Although the menu is not extensive, every item is meticulously sourced. I loved my tagliata (hangar steak) and Sophie ordered a scamorza which had been melted and arrived sizzling at the table in its own little terracotta pot: crusty at the bottom and heaped with truffles on top. Via della Luna, 21, Perugia +39.075 573 1047

Civico 25
This hip and cozy wine bar is a great for either a full meal or just a great glass or bottle of wine and nibbles. Via della Viola, 25, 06122 Perugia PG +39.075 571 6376

Da Cesarino
This is one of the oldest restaurants in Perugia, located right in the main piazza facing the Duomo and the famous fountain. I had read mixed reviews about it online, and realized I needed to try it myself. I skipped the outdoor terrace on a hot and muggy August day and my friend Laura and I headed inside, to the main dining room, with the rest of the locals. And had a pretty fantastic meal. This was not fancy. This was not creative. But a plate full of perfectly made crostini went down well with the house wine. Laura ordered the perfect version of an Umbrian Amatriciana (sausage instead of guanciale) and I had the most amazing stracchino stuffed gnocchi in pesto. Although the waiter started out grumpy (old fashioned restaurant grumpy) by the end he was dragging us into the kitchen to see the open grill. Piazza IV Novembre, 5, 06123 Perugia PG , +39.075 572 8974

Sandri
This turn of the century coffee/pastry shop has recently changed ownership. It’s been spruced up a bit (complete with a lounge area outside which sometimes plays annoying music) but the interiors – and the pastries – have remained unchanged. And they still make the weird almond paste snake shaped pastry that is their specialty. Corso Pietro Vannucci, 32, 06100 Perugia PG

Iper Coop just in case you are the area, this mega supermarket is located in a mall just outside of town. If you’ve rented a villa in the area it’s well worth stopping if only for their amazing wine section. Centro Commerciale Collestrada, Via della Valtiera, 181, 06135 Perugia PG

For more information on eating in Umbria and the rest of Italy please download my app, EAT ITALY available for iTunes and for Android.

And for more culinary and travel inspiration please buy my books:
Eating My Way Through Italy
Eating Rome

And if you’d like to join Sophie and me for a Week in Umbria, just send me an email and I”ll send you the details.