Being a Jewish girl from St. Louis you’d think that Lent would be the furthest thing from my mind. But being a food-oriented person who lives in Rome, it would be hard to ignore it. Easter is a huge deal here, and many of my friends who aren’t even that religious do give up something for Lent, the period leading up to Easter. Most people give up meat. (My vegetarian friends usually forgo something even dearer, like chocolate. )
Since my cookbook came out last week, and it is that time of year, I’ve been getting a lot of requests asking if any of the recipes are suitable for lent?  After some thought (and asking friends who knew better than I did)  I realized that the entire chapter from Puglia would be perfect!! Mostly vegetables with a bit of fish and cheese thrown in. While I know Lent is supposed to be about giving something up, this menu makes it not only delicious, but enjoyable. (which I guess is not very Lentish?) (Is that even a word?) And even though you may also be giving up alcohol during Lent, I’ve included advice about what to drink, since really, this menu is good to go any time of the year (especially in summer!)
Anyway…here is my idea for a menu for Lent. I’ll include the recipe for the pasta. I’ll also include a recipe for almond cookies that didn’t make it into the book (not enough room!) . For the rest I’m afraid you’ll have to go directly to the source The Italian Table.
Menu
Aperitivo
Friselle con pomodori/ Rusks with tomatoes
Crostini con ricotta e marmelata di perperoncino/ Crostini with ricotta and hot pepper jam
Taralli
Antipasto
Rotolini di zucchini con ricotta – Ricotta stuffed Zucchini
Primo
Pasta con pomodorini schiacciati e rughetta – Pasta with Cherry Tomatoes and Arugula
Secondo
Sformato di pesce con vedura – Fish and Vegetable Terrine
Dolce
Torta dei Ficchi / Fig Cake
Almond Cookies
Setting the Table
Maria Grazia and Chiara’s (the owners of Masseria Potenti) outgoing and colorful personalities are perfectly reflected in every aspect of the way they entertain. Against the blindingly white backdrop of the Masseria in the full sun, they set tables that are all bold color and surprising contrasts.
For this lunch Maria Grazia set a table in the shade of one of the Masseria’s stone alcoves. The white washed walls reflect the light, while the deep arched ceiling protects from the sun.
When deciding what colors to use to ‘dress’ a table, Maria Grazia takes into consideration not just the setting, but the light as well. For candlelit dinners she tends towards white, which will reflect the soft setting sun and the flickering fairy lights which hang every where. Instead, for a lunch beneath the shade of one of the covered areas she chooses shades of blue to instill a sense of coolness to an otherwise hot afternoon.
A handwoven piece of linen fabric, from her collection of textiles, acts as a tablecloth, strewn across the center of the table, acting as a sort of runner. Her set of turquoise colored plates, made in nearby Grottaglie, are handmade by artisans that have been crafting ceramics for centuries. In addition to plates, she uses a footed fruit bowl, a pitcher and a ceramic pine cone (a good luck talisman) to add height. Chiara is in charge of the centerpiece, mixing flowers with grapes (yet another shade of blue) cut from the nearby pergola.
Maria Grazia doesn’t believe in too much matching, and uses an array of vintage glasses and flatware collected over the years to animate the table even further.
What to Drink
Pugliese wines have undergone a renaissance recently and at Masseria Potenti they produce and serve their own. Before Rose became so trendy, it was always a thing in Puglia and now almost everyone produces it. Usually made from the grape Negroamaro, it is a bright, crisp and not too fruity. A perfect choice for a summer menu.
The most famous red from Puglia is Primitivo. It is the name of both the grape as well as the wine. The wines tend to be very dark and joyfully fruity. The name Primitivo actually refers to the fact that the grapes ripen early, with a lot of sugar, yet they ripen unevenly so that green grapes are usually on the bunches as well, which balances things out.Pasta con pomodorino schiacciato e rughetta / Pasta with Smashed Tomatoes and Arugula
Pasta with Smashed Tomatoes and Arugula
This is one of those nothing recipes that relies on extraordinary ingredients. The cherry tomatoes used here are daterini, a particularly intense variety that is grown on the estate. If you’re unsure if your cherry tomatoes are up to the job just taste one. If it tastes watery and bland, this recipe won’t do anything to improve it. Better to move on to another recipe or else search out better tomatoes. Or used canned cherry tomatoes which will do in a pinch.
The arugula used here is the perennial variety, that grows wild in Puglia. Tough and spicy, it adds both flavor and texture to the dish. Pre-washed, bagged, hothouse arugula may not have the same effect but you can always substitute another green, like watercress.
Ingredients
- 1 pound / 500 grams of orecchiette or cappunti
- 1 pound cherry tomatoes
- 1 bunch arugula or other spicy green
- 1/3 cup of extra virgin olive oil
- 1/4 cup of basil leaves
- Salt
- Pepper
- 1 cup of grated ricotta salata
Instructions
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the pasta and let cook till almost done.
In the meantime pour the oil in a large pan big enough to hold the drained pasta later. Add the cherry tomatoes, basil and salt and pepper. Let it cook over high flame for about 10 minutes.
Drain the pasta, and add to the pan with the tomatoes, using the back of your spoon to smash the tomatoes, letting their juice run out. Toss to coat the pasta completely.
To serve: place portions in individual bowls and then scatter with fresh arugula leaves and grated ricotta salata. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and serve.
Almond Cookies
Almond cookies are standard fare all over the south of Italy, where groves of almond trees are as plentiful as olives and grapes. These little cookies are a classic that typically show up at the end of meals. They are extremely dense and filling, so one per person is usually more than enough. Since they contain no wheat flour, they are also gluten free.
If you don’t feel like dealing with a pastry bag, you can always just spoon the batter directly onto the parchment. And if you don’t like candied fruit, you can also leave that off.
Ingredients
- 2 1/2 cups of almond flour
- 2 cups of powdered sugar
- 1 1/2 tablespoons of honey
- 3 or 4 egg whites
- 1 cup of granulated sugar
- 1/3 cup of candied cherries, diced
Instructions
Place the almond flour and the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Mix and then add 3 of the egg whites, and the honey. Mix well and if it seems too stiff, you can add the extra egg white.
Place the batter in a pastry bag equipped with a star tip.
Preheat the oven to320°F 170°C
Line a baking sheet with parchment.
Using the pastry bag, form cookies that are about 1 1/2 inch diameter. When you have formed them all, sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar and top each with a piece of candied cherry, pressing it in gently to the top.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, being careful not to over cook.
Let cool completely. Can be stored in an airtight container and will keep for a few weeks.
The above recipes and story is an excerpt from my new book The Italian Table: Creating Festive Feasts for Families and Friends. The recipes  referred to in the menu above (and many more!)  can be found in my book.  You can find it at your local bookstore or order it online from the usual sources found here.
The entire chapter was photographed, and then eaten, at the gorgeous Masseria Potenti in Puglia.
Well, I guess that explains the apple cake mentioned on your publisher’s website – the recipe didn’t make it into the book after all. Glad to know I’m not crazy.
Since you have more recipes than fit in the book you’ll just have to write another book. Hopefully it will include a recipe for the Cacio e Pepe taralli you mention frequently on your blog.
The book is great. The only problem is that the first recipes I want to try – they all seem to be summer recipes! No melons or tomatoes in season here yet.
Good catch!! In fact, I had included 2 desserts for many of the chapters, and those were the first to be cut when we realized there just wasn’t enough room. Luckily the fig cake in the Puglia chapter can easily work with apples. I also have a recipe for apple or pear cake on my blog, here: http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2011/04/marcellas-farm-wifes-tart-my-way/
Do you have a recipe for Taralli?
I do have a recipe, but I’ve never published it. It was supposed to be in The Italian Table but it got cut due to space. But this is a great idea, and I’ll post it soon!