I’ve been wanting to make a savory ricotta crostata for a long time. My sweet version has been my go-to dessert for about the last 15 years. The recipe, in all its variations, has appeared in my books Eating Rome, Eating My Way Through Italy and The Italian Table as well as on my blog here, here and here. Melissa Clark even wrote about my crostata in the New York Times. But the idea of a savory version, was always buzzing around my head.
The thing is, I wanted the savory crostata to have all the qualities that I love about my sweet crostata, including the buttery, shortbread-like, crust. The filling also had to be similar and I was very sure I didn’t want it to be too eggy (like a quiche) or too vegetabley (like a torta rustica). The main question was that I wasn’t quite sure what would replace the fruit jam that was the basis of all my crostatas.
I finally found my inspiration the other day while at our friend’s restaurant Il Ceretto
The area around Cannara, where Il Ceretto is located, is known for its incredibly sweet onions. And Doriana, the matriarch and in-house chef of both the family restaurant and agriturismo, makes and packages a delicious jam made from these very onions. Barely sweet, and very oniony, it’s a bit like a smooth chutney. They often serve it alongside the pecorino cheese that also comes from their farm.
Once I’d found my jam, the rest came together quickly. I often make a sweet crostata with ricotta, mixing in a bit of sugar and chunks of chocolate and/or berries. So I decided to top the onion jam with a thick layer of ricotta enriched with grated parmigiano and pecorino.
For the crust I made do with much less sugar than I usually use, and instead added chopped walnuts. I also decided to use stone ground whole wheat flour, to rustic the whole thing up.
It turned out as delicious as I thought it would. I served it as part of a buffet for our guests at one of the dinners we had last week during our Week in Umbria tour, as main course. But I’m thinking that it will make a perfect antipasto, served along with a salad on the side. I also think that by cutting it into tiny squares it would work well with drinks, for aperitivo.
Another thing I’ll be doing is playing around with the jam layer. I have a jar of hot pepper jam in the pantry that I think will work perfectly. And I’m definitely going to try using almonds or hazelnuts in place of the walnuts. Now that I’ve broken the savory crostata code, the possibilities seem endless.
Prep
Cook
Inactive
Total
Yield 8-12
I used an onion jam made by Ceretto for this tart. You can order their jam from their somewhat wonky Italian website here. There are tons of recipes out there to make your own, if you feel inclined. Or experiment with another kind of jam (hot pepper, bell pepper) or even chutney. If the chutney seems too chunky, then just put it in the blender.
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
- 1 cup walnuts
- 2 tablespoons ice water
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 6 tablespoons butter (115 grams) cold, cut into pieces
- 1 cup onion jam
- 1 1/2 cups of ricotta
- 1/2 cup of grated parmigian0 reggiano
- 1/4 cup grated pecorino
- 1 teaspoon freshly grated black pepper
- 1 medium egg
Instructions
Place the walnuts in the food processor and process until sand like. You don't want paste.
Add the flour, salt and sugar and spin a few times to mix well.
Add the butter and process until it is mixed in, and the butter is the size of small peas.
With the motor running, add the water slowly, and mix until the dough starts to clump together. If it seems not to be coming together, then just put it on a work surface and work it with your hands until it holds together.
Flatten into a disk, cover with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator for an hour.
Preheat oven to 350F/ 180 C
Line a tart pan with a removable bottom with parchment. Butter the sides.
Take the dough out of the fridge and place it on a floured surface. With a rolling pin, try to roll the dough out a bit. It’s a very fragile dough, so don’t freak out if it starts to fall apart. Just lift it up and plop it in the pan. Don’t worry if it comes to pieces. Just spread it out evenly using the palm of your hand. It’s a bit like play dough and will patch together. Make sure it comes up the sides to form the crust because that is the best part!
Once the dough is in the pan, spread the jam over the bottom to form a thin layer. You really don’t want too much. About a 1/4 inch max. Even less. Just a slick of jam.
Next put the ricotta in a bowl, along with the grated cheeses, black pepper and egg. Whisk with a fork until smooth.
Using a spoon, plop the cheese on top of the jam layer. Then, using an offset spatula or big butter knife, gently spread the ricotta to cover the jam layer. You have to be careful and gentle, since you don’t want to mix the jam into the ricotta layer. Smooth it out.
Place in oven and bake for about 40 to 45 minutes, until the ricotta starts to turn golden.
Remove from oven and let cool completely. Carefully remove the rim from the baking pan, and place on serving platter. I usually leave the disk base of the pan in place, since the tart is so fragile.
Cut into 8 to 12 slices, depending on how big you want your portions.
I served this tart during a dinner at my home in Umbria, as part of our Week in Umbria food tour. If you’d like to learn more about my tours and join us, see this page, or send me an email to receive all the details.
For more recipes to make your own Italian meal, see my book The Italian Table.
My mouth is watering! I love onion jam and can’t wait to make this. Thanks for sharing.
This really wets my appetite! thanks so much! that gorgeous ceramic JUG splattered in yellows and greens, is that from Pugla?? thanks Elizabeth! Mary
Yes, it’s from Puglia. Isn’t it gorgeous!!
Is this recipe for a 9” or 10” tart pan? Grazie non vedo l’ora di provarla!
9 inch would be perfect