hot springs : saturnia

I’ve never been a big fan of New Year’s parties. I just don’t see the point of going out on a night that is just so crazy. If we happen to be in Rome then I usually invite a few friends over for dinner and frankly? It’s already an accomplishment if we manage to stay up till midnight. Last year I cooked up a few Russian dishes, which was fun. This year, since most of my friends were out of town, I thought that maybe we should go somewhere too.

The problem was that I came up with this grand idea about 2 weeks before New Year’s. Also? I absolutely didn’t want to get on a plane or drive very far. I also kind of liked the idea of staying in my pyjamas for most of the time. Some place really relaxing. Is that too much to ask for?

Luckily for us one of the great thermal springs in Italy is not that far away. And extra lucky for us, they had room! Although, in typically Italian fashion reserving was not so easy. When I first called the Hotel Terme di Saturnia I was told they had a one week minimum stay requirement this time of year. Not one to give up easily, I wrote an email and was then told they had a 3 night minimum stay. That was more like it. Perfect in fact. I was so happy that I even signed up for the ‘Gala’ dinner on the 31st.

Domenico and I drove up on a crisp clear day from Rome. It’s an easy 2 hour drive and for much of the way we never even saw another car. Saturnia is located in the southern part of Tuscany that much further way from the more touristed areas of Chianti. Soft rolling hills with barely a house to break up the landscape. And every so often a town on a hilltop.

Saturnia is known for its hot springs which date back to Roman times. The hotel where we stayed, Hotel Terme di Saturnia, is located directly over the source of the water, where it bubbles up the hottest, at 37.5 C. The main draw for staying in this hotel is the you get full access to the huge thermal pool, and can basically just wander around in your bathrobe, going in and out of the pool all day long.

I can’t even begin to describe how great this feels. If you are looking for a way to completely soak away your stress, this is it. The hotel provides pool noodles, so you literally can just hang out and soak. The pool is massive and 2 meters deep, so feels very luxuriously empty. And warm. The days we spent there were sunny, but cold. So perfect soaking weather. The part of the day I loved the best was during our last swims, as the sun was setting and the last rays of light were reflected by the steam rising up from the water.

Between soaks we took a few long walks. One day we happened upon the famous outdoor waterfall, located just down the road from our hotel. Here the thermal water runs through a canal and then tumbles down a series of natural pools. It’s a magical place, and on New Year’s Day was full of families soaking in the new year. The waterfall is located in the middle of a field and is completely free to the public. But since it is located quite a bit away from the source, it isn’t as hot as the pool at the hotel. Also? You have to be pretty agile to get in and out. Just saying.

We also took full advantage of the spa at the hotel, where I even convinced Domenico to get massages and a facial and a pedicure!! I think he’s a convert. The spa is one of the best I’ve been to, the staff all very talented and professional. I had various scrubs, facials and some of the best massages I’ve had in Italy. Also, the thermal plankton from the springs is in many of the treatments and I have to say my skin feels great.

As I mentioned we had New Year’s at the ‘gala’ dinner, which was mostly about having fun. They even had circus performers wandering around and the people watching was pretty amusing. The food was fine, and slightly better than I expected from a hotel on New Year’s Eve. The best part was the completely AMAZING fireworks display over the thermal pool at midnight. Although many of the guests watched the display from the pool itself, I chickened out and was bundled up in my winter coat. Still, it was incredible.

Our best meal though,  was in town one night at Ristorante Da Mario. It was freezing cold out, and luckily our table was located right near the open grill in this cozy family run place. Known for it grilled meat, we went for it and ordered a bistecca Fiorentina. Although we knew it was too much, we somehow managed to eat the entire thing.

If you decide to go to Saturnia there are a few ways to do it. We definitely went the luxurious route, by staying in the hotel. By staying here you get full access to the pool all day long.

You can also stay in one of the many agriturismi in the area, and visit the thermal park which is part of the hotel. There are various entrance fees, and the most expensive level  (Club) also grants you access to the upper pool. You can also book treatments in the spa. While we were there I ran into my friend Dana who came for the day from the coast, where she has a house.

Domenico and I stayed in one of the new rooms that had recently been redone, and loved it. But in general, the rest of the hotel is definitely dated and probably needs a redo. Don’t get me wrong, we loved it! But it’s definitely old fashioned. The hotel has been family owned for years, and I think updates were haphazard and quirky. Starhotels ( a small Italian hotel chain) has recently bought it, so I believe more general updates are planned.

But in the meantime, I’m already trying to figure out my next visit there. While it was great being with Domenico, I’m thinking a girls trip next time? Who’s in?

Where we stayed:
Hotel Terme di Saturnia
Terme di Saturnia
58014 Saturnia (GR) Maremma
tel: +39.0564.600111
[email protected]

Where we ate:
Ristorante da Mario
Via Giuseppe Mazzzini 18
58014 Saturnia GR
tel: +39.0564.601309
It’s tiny so definitely reserve. They have an outdoor terrace in the summer.

To visit the Thermal Springs at the Terme for the day see this page. It explains all of the various entry ticket prices.

For more information on dining in Italy make sure you download my app EAT ITALY. The app is free, and contains guides to Rome, Venice, Florence as in-app purchases, and completely free guides to regions like Amalfi Coast, Umbria, Puglia and more. Available for iPhone and Android.

And if this trip looks like fun, and you’d like to join me,  visit this page to find out more and make sure you are signed up for my monthly newsletter.