Like many small towns that thrive on tourism, Ortigia (the small town that is part of Siracusa in Sicily) has some good restaurants, but also some so-so places. After much research (I do it for you!) here are my favorite spots.
I know there are a lot of other places in Ortigia. If they aren’t listed here it means that I’ve either been there and decided you shouldn’t, or else I haven’t been there yet. In any case, if you have places you’d like to share, I’d love to hear about them. I’m going back in few months and I’d love to check them out.
Macalle – For some reason this restaurant is always described as a ‘bistrot’. I’m not quite sure what that means, but it’s definitely on the ‘modern’ side and serves some of the best food in the city. Incredibly fresh fish, cooked, as they describe it themselves ‘Nonna’s recipes revisited in a contemporary way’. Which always ends up being exactly what I feel like eating.
Bar Condorelli – Condorelli is known for it’s torrone which can be found all over Italy. Their namesake bar in Ortigia is in the main piazza and sitting there, you feel as if you are in the middle of an opera set. While I often stop by for a morning or afternoon coffee, I can never resist one of their almond cookies. But what I really love are their granita. My favorite is to stop by for breakfast for a almond / coffee mix, with a still warm brioche. Also a great spot for aperitivi.
Apollonion – This tiny fish restaurant is 100% fish. They do have a menu, but most people just order the multi course fixed menu that just keeps going and going and going. It’s delicious and includes everything from oysters to fried fish to seafood to roasted fish to dessert. Also? It’s fun!
Gutkowskino – I love the small restaurant at the Hotel Gutkowski. The modern market driven menu is small, but changes weekly. Fish of course, but also lots of veggies. You can also come for a drink, which is what I do when staying at the hotel.
Antica Giudecca – Fast food Ortigia style. When I can’t decide if I really want to eat dinner or not, after a full day, I head here for a perfect arancini. And if I’m still hungry they always have something else, like fried calamari or baked pasta.
Enoteca Solaria – I love this enoteca which specializes in natural wines from all over Italy. Their prices are great, as is the food (mostly crostini and the like).
Mercato di Ortigia – If you are lucky enough to have a kitchen to cook in, or even if you just want to snack, make sure to visit the market, which takes place every morning until about 1:30. There are several stands that also sell prepared food, including the two below.
Caseificio Borderi – Make sure you save time and stomach space for at least one panino made by Andrea at Caseificio Borderi. Don’t try to tell him what you want, just let him do his thing (which you can see here). Be forewarned: they are HUGE. The last time I was there I could only manage to eat half. But I saved the other half, and took it to the airport to eat before getting on the plane. I was very happy. Located in the market.
Fratelli Burgio – This salumeria has been in the market of Ortigia for generations. The last time I was there it was closed up, but I just read that they have re-opened just down the street, near the port. They are known for their incredible tagliere, tasting boards full of cured meats, cheeses, and cured vegetables and fish. Like little works of art.
Pasticceria Artale – Old fashioned bar that retains its original 1950s vibe. Great pastries and coffee.
Cortile Verga– This cocktail bar is set in the incredibly romantic courtyard of a 16th century palace. The cocktails are superb! Very creative but not overly so. Great nibbles too.
La Foglia (Via Capodieci, 21, 96100 Siracusa SR) – I’ve been going to this quirky restaurant for about 20 years. The decor is…original. It’s filled with mismatched furniture, old dolls (for real) and very personal collection of paintings and sculpture. I’ve always eaten extraordinarily well here, but it’s hard to describe. It’s sort of like eating in someone’s home. Everything feels made with love. We always order the orange salad, and whatever other vegetables they have. One of the best pasta alla norma’s I’ve ever had. The menu changes all the time but the nice thing is that you can always find vegetarian dishes.
If you’d like to join us in Sicily you can! Sophie and I lead 2 – 3 Week-long tours a year here. You can read all about it here
Always trustworthy and helpful
Grazie!
I love your recommendations! I’m going to Ortigia with a group of 10 for my 30th birthday. Is there a fun restaurant with great food and lively atmosphere you’d recommend for the night of my actual birthday?
It would be fun to have something at Cortile Vergara. It’s not a real restaurant, but they make wonderful small plates and killer cocktails. A very beautiful setting. Otherwise Appollonion is always great.
Thank you for the wonderful suggestions. We will be spending a week in Ortigia in the middle of March 2022. Are most restaurants open in March?
Yes!
I recognized the table at La Foglia as soon as I saw the picture above. When we were in Ortigia right before Covid we ate at La Foglia one evening. While walking around the town one afternoon, the al fresco table completely captivated my attention. It has sort of a boho look that made me just want to sit there all day. Later that night we went there with another couple and enjoyed our nonna style dinner. One person got coniglio. To this day we laugh each time we talk about that night.
So glad to hear you went there and loved it too!
Absolutely one of my favourite places in the world, thank you for the recommendations and lovely pics!
I highly recommend Sicilia in Tavola at Via Cavour, 28, where we dined a few times in 2017. We’ll be back in Ortygia per una settimana in Settembre, and I would love to hear what you think about it.
Thanks I’ll try it!
My husband and I are planning on visiting Sicily. I recently developed an allergy to capsicum- bell peppers, chilies and paprika. How difficult is it to travel in the region with a food allergy? I have trouble breathing if I eat capsicum, so it isn’t something I can just suffer through. Also, how difficult would this allergy make traveling through any part of Italy? Thank you.
Traveling with a life threatening allergy is difficult where ever you are. I would imagine that going out to dinner in the USA is equally difficult. If you have an allergy that may effect your ability to breath, then I think you have to be extremely careful where ever you are.
When will your APP EATING ITALY be available again?
Your ROME APP was incredibly helpful!
The apps have been retired but I’ll be issuing the information in PDF form very soon!
What restaurant is the picture of the board that has the egg in the middle? Looks amazing! Just ordered your book!
That’s Fratelli Burgio
Your blog about where to eat in Ortigia was the best! We stayed at Hotel Gutkowski based on Lonely Planet but we ate at the restaurant based on your blog. Very good! The sandwich at Borderi was unbelievable – next time I will take twice as long eating it and maybe stop and savor the individual ingredients along the way. And maybe the best meal we had on this trip was at Fratelli Burgio: we each had the land & sea tagliere and shared one ricotta fresca. I shed a couple tears, but fainted when I got to the caponata. OMG!! (I’m 1/2 Italian, so I do gesticulate and dramatize – exaggerate? – more than others perhaps.) Our suitcase back to NY was filled with caponata jars to give as presents. When we got to Taormina I was sad not to find a specific blog of yours for that town. But we found that just going off the main drag, we ate very well. Although not every dish was worth writing home about, we still hit upon stellar dishes.
Anyway, we loved your blog.
A la prossima!
This is a joy to hear!! So happy you had a great time and ate well.
Giovanni. I am going to Taormina next month. Any restaurants you can recommend?
Sorry, but no. I’ve never really spent time there.
Thank you for detailed tips!
My friend Tina Pirolo raves about her trip with you this past spring! I’m coming with my aunt from September 23 to October 8. I will be in Siracusa from September 28. I hope to locate family members in Rugusa on September 29 and 30.
Do you offer day classes or tours?
Joanne Winter ( grandfather Angelo Gurrieri from Ragusa)
I love all your tips and photos. I’m heading to Ortigia next month for a cycling tour. Please let me know if you have any other restaurants to add to your favorites list since you stated you would be going again soon. Thank you so much.
Your new fan. Staring Sophie’s book now. So glad I found you.
Jamie Webb
The list is pretty up to date!