UPDATE OCTOBER 2022
I was up in Parma last month and of course ate well. As I tend to do. But here’s the funny thing about Parma: eating well is not always easy or obvious. The better restaurants tend to be outside of Parma itself, which is maybe ok for lunch, but for dinner it’s nice to be able to walk somewhere, right?
Anyways, here is my list of favorite places, some of which we’ll be visiting with our tour in November. If you have any favorites that I haven’t included, please add them in the comments!
Ristorante Cocchi My happy place: Ristorante Cocchi, located just outside of town (but you can walk if you’d like) in an anonymous hotel, is (in my humble opinion) the best restaurant in Parma. Don’t miss the Bollito Misto which is extraordinary. And if you can’t decide which stuffed pasta to get, you can order the Tris: a tasting of three different kinds.
Officina Alimentare Dedicata – Lovely casual trattoria run by 3 women (that’s always a good thing). The menu changes all the time, but tends towards the classics (it’s heavy). Start with a big board of prosciutto and order more torta fritta than you think you’ll need. And definitely don’t miss the home made giardiniera which comes to the table in it’s own cute little jar.
Tra L’uss e l’asa This tiny spot run by Lorenzo and Laura is in theory a panino place, but in reality serves some of the best food in the city. We had an amazing cheese platter served with home made giardiniera, preserved artichokes, preserved eggplant and home made onion jam. One of my favorite places in town.
Osteria Virgilio The perfect little trattoria that you always hope to find. Make sure to get prosciutto to start – it’s extraordinary. And any of the pastas will make you swoon. It’s very very small, so make sure you reserve. In nice weather they have more tables outside, in the very cute piazza.
Frank Focaccia – Everyone loves Frank Focaccia. This lively place makes one thing and one thing only: small round focaccia baked freshly in their special oven then stuffed with almost anything you’d like.
Pepen – Historic panino place, take away only. Their most famous sandwich is the one with is stuffed with horse meat tartare. It was amazing. But if that’s not your thing, no worries, they have about 20 other items.
Casa Ducato – Birre del Ducato is one of my favorite craft beers and they have a small place in the center of town, Casa Ducato, where you can not only have their beer, but very good food as well.
Osteria del 36 One of the oldest restaurants in Parma, tucked into a small side street in the center of town. Great classic food in a sweet cozy setting.
Tabarro If you are in Parma then you will most likely begin and end your nights here: Enoteca Tabarro. This tiny wine bar is not only special because of its natural wines, but mostly because of the totally charming owner Diego Sorba.
Ciacco Gelato – Not only the best gelateria in Parma, one of the best in Italy. Extraordinary attention to ingredients and you can always find innovative (and delicious) flavors using things like fresh ricotta. I tried red bell pepper gelato last time and loved it.
Caffe Cavour – I love this old fashioned, slightly fancy, coffee place for it’s frescoed ceilings and people watching from the outdoor terrace. Since they also are a bakery, the pastries are fresh and delicious.
Angiol D’Or – Located right in front of the Duomo, with a great view, this elegant place serves pitch perfect traditional recipes.
La Forchetta: This fish forward restaurant is definitely on the elegant side, perfect for a special occasion. I actually love the sister bar across the street for breakfast or cocktails.
Shopping: The entire length of Borgo Giacomo Tomassini and Borgo XX Marzo is one of my favorite shopping streets in Italy. So many chic cute boutiques! (Stores are closed on Thursday afternoons).
Food Shopping: If you are looking for a supermarket in the center of town, Sapori & Dintorni is great. It’s the upscale outpost of the supermarket chain Conad. Upstairs is a lot of prepared food for take away, but downstairs is the regular full supermarket.
PS:
Both Trattoria Corrieri and Trattoria Tribunale are famous, show up in all the guides, are located right in the center, and are pretty bad. They may have been good at one point, but now they just churn out food for tourists.
If you’d like to learn more about the food that comes from this part of the world – Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamico Tradizionale and Prosciutto – you can read my book Eating My Way Through Italy.
We also lead tours to Parma as well as other regions in Italy.
Loved your Parma restaurant recommendations. But most of all I LOVED the honesty that you put forth in having the courage to call out places that are bad. Rare on social media, thanks.
So many people end up at these places, and they are just so disappointing.
Thank you Elizabeth!
Think you forgot Ai 2 Platani. Very difficult to reserve.
I was only including restaurants in the center of Parma. But thanks!
We just left Parma but excellent meal and service at Ruliano.
Good to know!
I would love some recommendations OUTSIDE the city center too
Hello Elizabeth,
I’m a big fan. We met briefly in Boston pre-Covid. I also adore lovely Parma. Pretty sure Ristorante Cocchi has closed and is under new management, friends of the original owners. I don’t have any info on the quality of the new place. Perhaps you’ll check it out or I will next spring. Best, JoAnn
No, Cocchi hasn’t closed and is very much still being run by the same owners. I was there last week.
Loving your recommendations for Parma. Have already been to Officina Alimentare Dedicata for dinner and Tra L’uss e l’asa for lunch – both were fantastic! We’ll be trying more on your list in the next few days 😀
We went to Tribunale before reading your comments and can’t agree! All other diners were Italian, not a tourist in site. The salumi were as good as anywhere else we ate (inc your recommendations) and the pasta better than any elsewhere – well-made, tender and perfectly cooked. The only poor things were the dolce – but then they generally are every where.
Come to Watson and Walpole in Framlingham, England for the best tiramisu anywhere!
Good to know!!!