UPDATED: SEPTEMBER 2022
I know that a lot of your end up in Todi, in Umbria, after following me along here on the blog and Instagram. And while some of you actually join me for a tour, I know that more often you are on your own. And hungry.
With this in mind here is my list of places to eat and drink and snack and shop in Todi. If you have anything to add, please do! Especially if you’ve been to any of these places and have some feedback.
Restaurants
Pizzeria Cavour
Corso Cavour 21 (open daily)
This is our pizza place of choice in Todi and where we go in the summer months to sit on their panoramic terrace. But it is also lovely indoors. They also have a full menu besides pizza.
Risorante Umbria This is one of the oldest and best restaurant in Todi. It’s lovely to sit on the terrace which has the best views out over the valley, but the tables by the fireplace are also cozy in winter. Traditional Umbrian food, in an elegant setting,
Vineria San Fortunata
Piazza Umberto 5 (open daily from 12pm to 2am)
This small enoteca has a great selection of wines and excellent cheese and cured meats as well as a full menu. UPDATE: The former chef and part owner, Rita, has left, so I can’t speak for the cooking, but the wines and cheeses and cured meats are still spot on.
Pane e Vino
Via Augusto Ciuffelli 33 (Closed Wednesday)
A darling enoteca with very good food. You can have a full meal, or just cured meats and cheeses and salads.
Pizzeria Le Scalette
Via delle Scalette 1 (Closed Monday)
Simple restaurant that has good pizza. And very nice terrace with view.
Trattoria da Piero e Silvana
Via Giacomo Matteotti 91 (Closed Wednesday)
Lovely family run trattoria. Kind of a long walk, down the hill, but very charming.
Trattoria Jacopone
Piazza Jacopone 3. This is one of the oldest trattorias in town. Good traditional local food. Just next to the hotel Fonte Cesia.
Pizzeria Italo
Piazza Bartolomeo D’Alviano 1 This small place below the hotel is a tavola calda/rosticerria . It looks simple, but their wood grilled meats are amazing. Great for take out if you want to picnic.
Pozzo del Beccaro
Located at the far end of the parking lot opposite the church of the Consolazione (at the bottom of town). We LOVE this pizzeria, and it’s a great place if you can eat outside in their garden. A kind of long walk, but worth it.
Basico
Piazza del Popolo This is a newish restaurant, and on the fancy side. I’ve never been (the menu doesn’t appeal to me) but some people love it. UPDATE: Sad to say, I’ve heard a lot of bad feedback about this place. I still haven’t been.
La Cantina del Mercataccio
Via del Mercato Vecchio 1. This is located on a stairway leading off of the main street. It has a lovely terrace if the weather is nice. The chef recently changed, but I’ve heard it’s very good. UPDATE: Everyone I’ve spoken to loves this place.
If you have a car, these are our favorites in the countryside (just a 5 minute drive:
Cibocchi: Our local trattoria near our own house.
Rosa dei Venti: Hugely popular with locals for their pizza, but I love their grilled meats. They have an amazing terrace overlooking the countryside UPDATE: Sadly, after about 40 years, this restaurant has closed.
Mulinella: One of the best restaurants in town, they are located in the valley and have a lovely garden. UPDATE: While it’s still a lovely setting, the food has been sadly lacking the last few times I’ve been. The former chef (a nonna) has been replaced by someone who doesn’t quite know what they’re doing. Sad, and I hope it gets better since I love the place.
Gelato & Coffee
Bacio di Latte
Piazza del Popolo
This gelateria just opened, so I haven’t had a chance to try it yet, but I’ve heard good things.
Pianegiani
Corso Cavour 40
If you plan on eating one thing in Todi, make sure it’s at last one stop by this gelateria. The best gelato in town. Also the best coffee in town
Coffee Bars
There are several bars in the main square in town.
Gran Caffe Todi, along the short side of the square, is my favorite. They are very friendly. Great view
Food Stores
Principi
Piazza del Popolo
This is the oldest speciality food store in town, and was carrying balsamico before most people even knew what it was.
Frantoio La Casella:
Piazza del Popolo . Along the long side of the square, you have to go through an archway to get to it. They have excellent products, including olive oil.
Giovenali
Corso Cavour 9
Another great speciality food store, with lots of local products including truffles.
Saturday Market
Located down the hill, next to the Consolazione, it’s the big weekly market. They don’t have a lot of food, but it’s fun to go, in only for the two porchetta stands which are amazing. They also have some fun houseware stands as well as clothes (including house dresses)
Saturday Farmer’s Market Coldiretti : Piazza Atti
This is located in a small parking lot outside the walls, and is only a handful of stands but they all sell fresh and local produce. Great bread stand, as well as vegetables.
Monday Market: Piazza Atti
This is also local farmers selling produce.
I hope you enjoyed this list of where to eat in Todi, Umbria. To find out more about Umbria see my book Eating My Way Through Italy.
If you can find them, my out of print books Italian Rustic, Restoring a House in Italy and Deruta , also have chapters on design in this part of the world.
And of course we’d love to have you join us for a tour. You can find out more about our Week in Umbria tours here. We are always announcing new tours (they sell out fast!) To be the first to know, make sure you are signed up for the Premium Version of my Newsletter.
Our first time in Italy, we were staying just outside of Todi and happened upon Cibocchi. We were a fairly large group, tired, hungry and not knowing much Italian. The people at Cibocchi were so friendly and welcoming, and the food was fantastic. I highly recommend going there, and hope to go back when we head to Italy next February!
Glad to see Vineria San Fortunata on the list. I’ve been twice thanks to your recommendation and had delicious food. Perhaps under the food store section you may want add Caseificio Montecristo, my favorite cheese shop in Umbria!
Yes, I love Vineria, although the chef, Rita, has recently left. I hadn’t put Caseificio Montecristo because originally this was a list for our tour guests, who stay up in town. But will add it!
Hi there! We’ll be there next month, and I’m having trouble finding Piazza Atti on Google or Apple Maps. Can you elaborate, please?
I hear you! It’s impossible to find on maps. Just look for Bar Mokambo. It’ right outside the walls of Todi, and in the parking lot of Bar Mokambo.
Ristorante Umbria. My favorite restaurant in Todi, no longer there? I just cannot imagine Todi without it.
Oops! It must have gotten deleted by accident. Will add it back. thanks for the catch.
Hello! I live in Todi part-time and 2 other restaurants worth the mention are:
> Osteria Valle– owned and run by Simone who is from Rome. A casual, chic osteria with indoor and outdoor dining. If you like truffles, this place is for you!
> Enoteca Oberdan–owned and run by very talented Elsa, also from Rome. Her food is incredible. She usually had a new menu every day. The service can be slow, so leave yourself a full evening to dine here. It’s also very small, but quite charming.
Both are located on Via Augusto Ciuffelli, near Pane e Vbino and Le Scallette.
I love Osteria Valle and meant to add it here. Will do! Oberdan drives me insane. I just can’t stand the fact that everyone get’s their food at a different time, and you have to allot hours. The last time I went each diner got their dinner separately, and I was the last. I had waited for over an hour to get any food at all so was starved. After everyone had finished eating, the waiter came to me and told me that unfortunately they were out of what I had ordered, did I want to change to something else. We had arrived at 8:00. By this time it was 9:30 an I was ready to cry. Sorry, but I will never go back.
Love this resource, thank you so much! I’d love to hear some insights on your favorite activities out of town? We will be visiting for a few days and would love to visit some wineries, farms, etc. Do not have quite enough time for your tour but hoping to create out own mini-Umbrian tour. 🙂