A few weeks ago Domenico and I wandered over to the Capitoline Museum to see the show Lux in Arcana. I’d been hearing about this show of documents from the Vatican archives, and a few people told me it was fantastic.
I’m not sure if I’m jaded, but since I’ve actually spent quite a bit of time working with these types of documents in the archives in Florence, the show just didn’t get me that excited. The exhibition itself seemed more intent on impressing with installation shenanigans, than anything else. Computer screens instead of real labels, huge black cases for each document, and lighting so low that a headache was a given.
By the time we had made it to the end our eyes were throbbing and are backs about to break from standing in front of each document trying to decipher the writing in near darkness.
As we were stumbling out, one of the guards saw us heading towards the exit and suggested that instead of leaving, we head across the square to the Palazzo Nuovo. She must have picked up on our sensory overload, and knew we needed an antidote.
Although what we really wanted was a gelato, a coffee and a place to sit down, we dutifully headed down to the basement, crossed the underpass that runs under the Campidoglio, and emerged into our own private, light filled museum of masterpieces.
I hadn’t been to the Palazzo Nuovo in years, and certainly not since they changed the entryway. While you used to enter the museum directly from the square, now you have to get your ticket across the way, then come underground.
Although this seems to be a pain in the neck, what it really means is that once there, you have the place pretty much to yourselves.
The main attraction is the Dying Galatian. But the rest of the rooms are full to bursting with Roman sculpture. Busts galore, but also other pieces. All in their original 18th century installation.
Plus, two sculptures of what I swear are Pico’s direct ancestors.
It couldn’t have been more different from the dark, crowded and uncomfortable exhibition across the way. And so was just what we needed. Thank you nameless guard, for steering us in the right direction. 
Palazzo Nuovo – Capitoline Museum
Piazza del Campidoglio
Open Tuesday – Sunday 9am – 8pm
I love this museum! And the Piazza Campidoglio is my favorite spot in Rome. Thanks for taking me back for a few minutes.
My pleasure!
Ah, Elizabeth, you are right about the dog! Thank you for a taste of real beauty and cool elegance.
It always seems to be that sort of dog… Like these, spotted at the Vatican special tour http://flic.kr/p/bWYKmz
OMG, what a cute sculpture!!!
Quelle finesse…ah that made me so happy to travel with you for a few minutes while the news of France’s elections tonight blare in my ear. Merci.
This is one of our favorite places to give a tour in Rome. It is off the beaten path and holds more fantastic treasures than any museum outside the Vatican, and has so few visitors compared to the endless teaming hordes there.
We actually really loved the Lux in Arcana show – though we agree about the dulness of the presentation. It helps to hear the secrets and fascinating history behind the best documents in order to make them come alive. We have had some really great responses to our tours of the exhibition which I think help to bring it to life, since the explanations in the exhibition are very dry! There are also just too many documents, so it is good to be able to skip the boring ones and just focus on the juicy ones!
I personally loved some the items exhibited as objects, like the enormous book of the Borghese and the papal seals, as well as the stunning 60 meter long document of the persecution of the Knights Templar!
Hopefully more people will go to see this museum- it is one of the best kept secrets in Rome and all our clients are completely blown away by it. It truly makes a perfect antidote to the Vatican.
Totally agree. I think the Lux in Arcana show should have been edited way down, and focus on the documents as objects. Those were the most exciting ones to actually see.
Thank you for giving us yet another reason to return to Rome!! The combination of unexpected beauty and reflective time make for a pleasureable experience.
We went with our professor to the exhibit and it made a huge difference. Mostly because he is literally the most interesting man on earth and could make a pile of dirt seem interesting. In fact, our first lesson with him was about dirt and it was amazing. He gave us in-depth background for every single document that went well beyond what the exhibit actually gave. Ettore gave a tour there a few weeks ago and the clients couldn’t say enough. With the background information even the “boring” documents ere incredible. the oldest piece of paper in the world and the story behind it. The only existing document front he Ming dynasty-all the rest destroyed in the Cultural Revolution. Also being able to see what type of damage can happen to ancient documents like this was an epiphany. It is a nice break to go under the passage and to the other side of the museum. I love Diana’s hounds. They really capture the essence of a dog. Loyal companions that would follow us anywhere.
What a beautiful museum! The palette of the rooms, their graceful dimensions and arches, and what looks like an abundance of natural light combine to showcase the sculptures in a very harmonious way. Very serene feeling overall. Thanks for sharing