I may not be very good at things like skiing, swimming or running, but if there was an olympic competition for multi-tasking I would win all the medals. I think it’s become almost impossible for me to do just one thing, and one thing only. I realize that as a woman, wife and mother that the multi-tasking gene is hardwired into my being. But I’ve proudly taken it to another level. Since I started this blog, things like cooking, shopping, traveling and general world watching have now become officially work. My entire life is one big multitasking extravaganza.
Which is why I am so appreciative when I see multitasking in others.
When I was down in Campania last month, learning how anchovies are caught and cured, I also learned how this complex and time consuming operation has another delicious byproduct: colatura. While the anchovies are being cured and getting ready for their entry into jars and onto our table, they are also busy multitasking: producing this salty, magical golden elixir.
I’ve long been using colatura, but actually had never seen exactly how it was produced. I somehow associated it with the ancient Roman garum, which was a fermented byproduct of intestines and other non-edible fish parts. Instead, colatura is a much more straightforward process that involves no fish innards whatsoever.
When the anchovies are curing in their barrels for upwards of a year, the salt in which they sit is leaching out the liquid from the fish. Not only does it cure the flesh, it also helps to then preserve them. When the barrels are finally cracked open, they are first tipped onto their sides, which is when the precious multitasking bears fruit. Rather than let the liquid run down the drain, the mixture of fish and salt and time is carefully caught, then aged in wooden barrels for yet another year.
The result is colatura, the most intense , fishy and complex taste you can imagine. It is very concentrated, so a little goes a very long way. Down on the Amalfi coast I saw it used in many ways, (on top of tomato salad was the most surprising) But my favorite way was a simple dish of pasta.
Luckily the chef who cooked this for me invited me into the kitchen where I learned I had been doing things all wrong when it came to colatura. The precious liquid is dosed out into a large bowl and then emulsified with olive oil and cold water first, forming a luscious dressing. Who knew?
It’s very much a technique kind of thing, so I made a video of the chef in action. And yes, I had a meal, but I also now have a video and a blog post. Multi-tasking, 24/7.
This video was filmed at:
Pensando a Te
Via dei Due Principati 40
Baronissi, Salerno
+39.089.954.740
The Colatura from IASA is available through retail through Market Hall Foods and wholesale through Manicaretti Food Importers.
I was invited to visit Cetara and Amalfi coast by Manacaretti Food Importers, and was the guest of IASA.
Just ordered colatura from Market Hall Foods. I cannot wait to try the pasta. And the tomatoes. Many thanks.
I just wanted to tell you how excited I get to watch your videos. Love ’em!
Thank you! You can see more of my videos on my You Tube channel, and subscribe if you haven’t already. https://www.youtube.com/user/Minchilli1
This is the best thing I have learned from you. Many years ago I was with my foodie friends Faith, Bruce and Nancy and I asked them what I should do with the colatura I was buying. No hints.. I tried spaghetti with colatura but it was not great. Now I know what to do. Also, I never tried it on tomatoes! Thanka
This is your first post I’ve received via email subscription, and the topic was perfect – last summer I had the opportunity to enjoy a delicious meal of anchovies (simple, with olive oil, salt and pepper) in Cetara. I will never forget that afternoon and the realization that anchovies are actually scrumptious. 🙂 I’d never heard of colatura, so thank you – I will order some and try it with my pasta soon.
THE VIDEO IS GREAT , YAM !
I WISH WE COULD FIND IT HERE (ISRAEL).
I loved this because it reminds me that a good pasta sauce must be “built.” Layer of flavor by layer of flavor. I learned it from Paul Bertoli’s cook book, “Cooking by Hand.” ANyway thanks for this video–beautifully edited!
Gregorio C
Your Colatura video was “strepitoso’ and filled me with confidence to undertake the task full on. I have ordered the alici and their “elixir” from Oakland so it looks like we’ll be having a fishy Friday. Im glad I made some fresh breadcrumbs yesterday. Seriously, that is a very helpful and inspiring video. Di nuovo, mille grazie.
Let me know how it turns out! To make the seasoned breadcrumbs he first toasted them, whizzed them in a food processor with mixed herbs – rosemary, thyme, parsley and marggioram – with a bit of garlic
Thanks for the heads-up regarding the seasoned breadcrumbs. They added a wonderful consistency and freshness to the deep flavor of the colatura. I like this recipe and consider it a master recipe for many things to come. My Roman husband wished that the pasta, having cooked in unsalted water, had been slightly less “sciapo”. This will take a bit of experimenting as I know just how salty this puppy could get. BTW watched your Carbonara video which is also masterful. Complimenti as always.
Getting the salt right is the trick. That is why they taste it several times at the end. It’s always better to be able to add more, then subtract (which is impossible). Just add more colatura at the end and that should fix things up
thanks, that’s helpful
Brings a smile to my heart watching that spaghetti whirling in that
sauce…Perfection. Thank you so much.
What is colatura?????????
Did you read the post about it? All is explained in this post. In fact, that is what the entire post is about.
I just watched this with my morning coffee and just wanted to let you know how wonderful I thought it was. Made my mouth water! Well done Sarah
Thank you! Also, fyi, anchovies are good for breakfast too. 🙂
I read this and immediately looked online to see if I could get some colatura in Canada…. seems like I can’t, unless i want to pay $70 for a wee bottle from amazon in the States. I will keep hunting!
That much! Keep hunting!
Elizabeth, great to see just how colatura is made. We drove to Cetara when staying in Positano a few weeks back because I read that colatura di alici originated there. Apart from buying a number of different anchovy products along with my colatura, there wasn’t a lot to see there though it is a cute little fishing village. I was planning on making anchovy pasta this coming week with the colarura so your video is very helpful!
Cetara is great exactly because there is nothing much to see. It’s one of few villages along the coast that has remained off the tourist track. Hope your pasta turns out delicious!
Elizabeth, my husband and I love anchovy pasta made with anchovies, olive oil, garlic and parsley. I found it in the NY Times cookbook by Craig Claiborne. Now I can try this version — exited to do so because Market Hall is a 10-minute drive.
Market Hall 10 minutes away? That sounds dangerous!
I looked at Amazon today too. Exorbitant. $133.25 for a small bottle. Ridiculous.
I am going to experiment with Chinese fish sauce for $1.39. Do you have any idea how they compare in taste?
I have three bottles of Chinese fish sauce – they all are made from anchovies but have distinctly different tastes. The one with the laughing baby is the tastiest in my estimation and also the least expensive.
I’ll give it a whirl. That pasta looks too delicious.
I just looked at the bottles. The Golden Boy brand is from Thailand as is one other. And the third is from Vietnam and has wheat protein in it and is the least tasty, in my estimation.
You could try with Asian fish sauce, but the taste will be completely different. I find they have a much more fermented taste. I’m not sure why it’s so expensive on Amazon, but here is a link to Gustiamo: https://www.gustiamo.com/shop/colatura-anchovy-sauce-from-cetara-by-nettuno/
where the price is only $20 and from Market Hall Foodshttp://markethallfoods.com/colatura-di-alici-anchovy-syrup where the price is $25.
La colatura di alici una delle specialit pi note della costiere e soprattutto, caratterizza da sempre il piccolo borgo di pescatori di Cetara, localit ben nota proprio per il pesce fresco pescato tutti i giorni che finisce sulle tavole non solo degli autoctoni.
I don’t know where these other posters are finding such high prices at Amazon. I just searched their site and found one brand as low as $12 and change. Here is a link http://is.gd/xYguvl
We’ve rented a villa in Maratea for a week in late September. I’ll look for Colatura while we’re there and give this recipe a try. Sure does look interesting. Thanks for putting up the video.