Week in Abruzzo with Evan Kleiman

Like many of you these past few months, I’ve been dreaming of traveling. While of course I’ve been thinking about very specific places I’d like to go (Lisbon and Copenhagen were at the top of my list before this all started) I’ve also been thinking about travel in general. You know. The Big Picture stuff.

If you follow me at all you know that I talk a lot about the perils of over-tourism. How places like Venice, Rome and Florence have been over run to the point of destruction by way too many tourists. Well. Now we’ve seen exactly how low cost ‘fast’ tourism has effected the literal health of not just these cities, but the world. A lot of people are now talking about the flip side that is now popping up: the perils of under tourism. Communities that have previously relied upon precious tourist bookings to help preserve a way of life in danger of dying out.

But under tourism is nothing new. In fact, it’s always been my guiding light in planning any sort of week long tour. I much prefer to go to a destination that is off the beaten track (Sicily, Puglia, Umbria) and then dive deeply into the culture, avoiding the obvious in favor of meeting the people who are keeping traditions alive.

As we move into 2021 I think that this type of travel will be the kind that most people choose. My friend, cookbook author and radio host Evan Kleiman thinks so too.

We are very excited to announce our newest tour: A Culinary Retreat in Abruzzo. Abruzzo is one of the most under populated and wild regions in Italy. It is also one of the most beautiful. Because it is so far off the beaten track much has remained in tact, with life and food traditions continuing as they have for centuries. Join Evan and me during this unique 6 day tour as we slow down to have time to step into this world.

We’ll be based in the the small hamlet of Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Each day we will either head out to explore, or spend time in the village, diving into old traditions to learn about the people who live here, their culture and way of life. We will be staying in one of the most spectacular hotels in Italy: Sextantio Santo Stefano. The hotel is situated in the small town of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, in one of the most rural, and isolated, areas of Italy. Like many small towns during the last century, Santo Stefano was abandoned when impoverished families left to seek their fortunes elsewhere, in the modern world. Yet it was precisely this abandonment that saved the precious architectural heritage from destruction or change.

Ten years ago the Danish entrepreneur Daniele Kihlgren fell in love with the abandoned town. But where others saw neglect, he saw possibility. Daniel had a vision. He decided that it could be a completely new kind of hotel. The focus was on restoring the buildings (with the help of local museums and universities) but just as importantly, preserving the artisanal, cultural and culinary traditions as well. “Many of the mountain villages in Abruzzo are so remote that some of the old ways are still preserved,” he said. “Until World War II many people here only spoke a local dialect. The people who remain here are the last generation to still use traditional cooking and building methods. They remember the old folk stories and songs.”

Most mornings we’ll be heading out of town, driving through incredible landscape, to discover delicious traditions: candy making in Sulmona; saffron harvest in Navelli and wine making in one of the oldest cantinas in Italy. We’ll also be exploring artisan crafts which are still practiced, visiting Castelli to learn about ceramics, and a workshop in Abruzzese weaving. And of course there will be cooking classes with Evan, and local nonnas, within the magically restored 16th century kitchen that is part of our hotel.
While there will be lots of activities, there will also be down time, to just walk, read, relax and enjoy this unique spot.

Details:

When:

June 6-12, 2021

Who:

Space is limited to 12 guests

Where:

We’ll be based in the hotel Sextantio in Santo Stefano di Sessanio.

What:

Our days will be full, with adventures both in and out of our small little village. But don’t worry, you’ll have some down time as well, to head off on your own to explore.
Some of the things we’ll be doing: